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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In need to replace the chopper knives in rear. I have a 740TT with just standard chopper. Can I remove the tail or fins and get to them from the rear? I also hear you can remove windrow shield in back and come down through the top. Any tricks? Thanks Guys!
 

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On the 500 series with the Mav chopper you can remove a bottom panel and get them from underneath. Lately on the 700series I’ve started just removing the windrow shield and doing them that way. I find it easy look down than up now a days.
 

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While you are at it put Kondex knives on, vastly better than Claas knives in every way not counting price but in the long run will be cheaper.
 

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Yes. Kondex are better then claas knifes. Ours have lasted 2 seasons on one side. About 350 threshing hours. Would only get about 3/4 of a season before.

This year wasn’t much straw. But last year they did 230 hours with lots of straw.
 

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We do the same as Darcy on 740TT, remove the windrow shield. And removing the windrow shield is easier when the tube framed "bumper" is removed and left off the combine. Seems to constantly sway back and forth and the metal fatigues, so it is now in the pile with the shields. I think the next thing to go in that pile is the yellow top of the tailboard for a Turbo Chop. I can't believe how tight dust can get packed in there!
 

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I never ran the stationary knives or straw dam in this year, even a bit of silaging action in draws Kondex knives chopped very fine.
And they keep the end knive square which prevents bridging.
And they don’t bend on rocks.
However, zero rocks through this year!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I never ran the stationary knives or straw dam in this year, even a bit of silaging action in draws Kondex knives chopped very fine.
And they keep the end knive square which prevents bridging.
And they don’t bend on rocks.
However, zero rocks through this year!
Thanks Guys! I was looking at it yesterday and still might take the tail off. Remove the two bushings with roll pins and shock, think it will drop off. Will use a forklift under it to handle, but thinking that is what I will do.. Thanks
 

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On an old fashioned Lexion/ MAV chopper, I remove the tailboard and go to it. Consider parking rear axle up high or in ditch to make chopper in a nice position for you.
 

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Just a friendly FYI. Give the chopper and the top mounts a very good looking over for cracks. They seems to start appearing around that 1500sep hours on both my turbo choppers. Check to make sure no bolts are missing. The 8000 series choppers have the same mounts as well. I never had any issues with over 2600 sep hrs on the 500series with the mav chopper
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: I ended up ratchet strapping the tail board to a handle above it. Took the left notched arm off and the arm to sensor and flipped it up. Did not remove gas shock. Had good room to sit on a bench underneath. Worked really good that way. Thanks for replies!!
 

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While you are at it put Kondex knives on, vastly better than Claas knives in every way not counting price but in the long run will be cheaper.
The new Redekop knives are equal if not better than the Kondex Don and I can supply the Redekop at a lower price point.
 

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In need to replace the chopper knives in rear. I have a 740TT with just standard chopper. Can I remove the tail or fins and get to them from the rear? I also hear you can remove windrow shield in back and come down through the top. Any tricks? Thanks Guys!
We roll the chopper in like you are going to drop straw. Then we take off the bolts on the bottom of the windrow shield off and remove the windrow shield. Get a short stool to stand on and the blades are really easy to get at coming down from the top.
Working down is so much easier than working up from underneath.
 
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