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Well I picked up a farm that has hay ground that the owner won’t let come out of hay and go to row crops. So I’m going to be doing some hay now. So I found a Claas rollant 62 baler that has net wrap that looks barely used. I just want to know if these balers are worth buying and easy to use and maintain. Thanks for any input or suggestions
 

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I run Claas 85 models in both Claas and Deutz Allis dress, all with twine tie. Actually have a 62 with net wrap I have never used, simply bought it for parts.
They are a simple machine and make a good bale with experience. Pickup leaves a bit to be desired, it aint no NH super sweep thats for sure lol.
They do take a bit of power, the big ones will make a 130 hp work when finishing a bale.

Biggest issues are with the feed raker bar behind the pickup. Check for wear in the drive linkage at the left side where the drive crank is. There is a little connecting rod type link with plastic bushings inside the ends that is greasable. You want both ends to be fairly snug and grease it often. Not only the bushing wear, but also the bolts.
Also check the bushing the right hand end runs in, again this should be greased often.
Many times you will see where the clamping bolts that hold the raker bar in place in its shaft assembly will come loose and this distorts the positioning and also caused lots of wear because it will flop back and forth each stroke. If there is any wear, tighten the bolts tightly on the clamp, provided it isn't wore too much already. Make sure the raker bar is in proper position in relation to the shaft assembly before you tighten those clamps.
Sounds more technical than it really is, have a look underneath and you will see exactly what all I am speaking of.
I think I even have a book for that 62, so might be able to provide some specific info on that model that might be different than its bigger brothers.
The 62 uses the same gauge as the big ones, for reference I run mine up to and occasionally just into the red which is over 200. They actually don't recommend doing so, but it sure gives you a better bale that holds its shape and sheds water very well. I believe the book says to stop around mid yellow range. It is hard on the baler to push it over capacity constantly. With that said, I have never in tens of thousands of bales ever once knocked out a shear pin. But I have wore out a couple as well and had failures, ie welds breaking, metal cracking, from metal fatigue due to the bale case repeatedly expanding. I don't doubt me pushing things made this worse, but any baler wears out eventually.
Carry an fire extinguisher, as in one of those water cans, with all those rollers, hot bearings happen occasionally and the one of mine has been on fire twice as result.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for all the good information Albertabuck. I will PM you if I need anything from the book if you have one.
 

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No prob and if you need any other info hopefully I can help you out. Been running these machines for many years.
I corrected the gauge numbers in my original post, was funny I went out baling today and first thing I noticed it the start of the red zone is 200 not 300 as I had said, 300 is way up in the red. So to clarify don't go over 200 or the start of the red. I believe that is BAR those gauges read, the metric numbers mean dick to me so I just use them as reference. Oh and also every bolt and bearing in them is metric as well.
If you do want to use the twine tie, I figured out a way of utilizing the electronic system for most of the cycle, and then am able to override it to speed things up at the end during the part of the cycle when the twine is cut. Cuts tying time by at least a third.
 

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I've got a rollant 62 with net wrap and having problems getting the wrap to start? Just bought it and know nothing about the machine any help would be appreciated. My phone number is 260 578-8881 if that's easier thank you
 
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