Combine tank, uneven unloading question.

2894 Views 23 Replies 10 Participants Last post by doorknob, Dec 7, 2009

doorknob

Discussion Starter · Dec 1, 2009

Hi all. Some, though very little discussion has taken place over the years, about the uneven nature of the combine tank unloading. The front empties out first and you have to wait that extra time with the unloader running at half capacity to unload the rear half of the tank. Perhaps with carts in corn, it is not an issue, however for those that dump at a stationary truck, or have determined that completely emptying the tank pays better productivity, waiting that extra time is a disappointment to state it politely.

If a fix for this issue were to come about, completely bolt on and field installable, would you look into the purchase?

For those that are more straight forth and confident, what might you pay for a fix to this issue? (I ask that to get an idea if I need to quit pursuing the fix, or continue)

BTW, is there a fix available that I am not aware of?

Thanks.

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

farminflyboy

· #2 · Dec 1, 2009

it is annoying, i've thought on it some myself. It depends on how involved the fix is on what a fair price is. PM me if you want to kick ideas around.

rockinronnie

· #3 · Dec 1, 2009

I too see this uneven unload on our 1688 and 2388. I wonder if we would open the adjustable slide on the rear auger fully and close the front slide until the tank emtied evenly, would the main auger stay at full capacity? If the main auger remains at full capacity we would shorte our unload time. I will experiment next fall.

doorknob

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 1, 2009

I know of folks that have removed the slide covers in certain crops and still and an uneven unload. The newer 2388s went to a 37 tooth sprocket on the rear auger instead of the 43 tooth like the older machines have. Seems to work somewhat in beans and dry corn. However, it will wear out the auger flights and trough that much faster.

If you look at these 2 pictures, you can figure out the issue.

I'll attempt to make an effort at testing my idea this winter sometime. I have 2 bins of wheat that I need to sell, and will fill the combine with the wheat, then empty into the truck a few times to see if it works.

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farminflyboy

· #5 · Dec 1, 2009

I think if you angle the floor of the back auger into the sump so that it wants to drain into the unloader better that it could help with the issue.

yorkiefarmer

· #6 · Dec 1, 2009

new member, long time observer. I think rotation is wrong on rear auger, should be clockwise with right handed flighting, would not push grain up and away, would pull it into auger.

doorknob

Discussion Starter · #7 · Dec 2, 2009

RIGHT ON yorkiefarmer.!!!!! You got it. That is exactly right. The rear auger needs to be rotated clockwise.

I hope to have a reverse flight auger soon and build my drive setup.

BTW: Thanks for joining, hope you stick around and contribue. You obviously have open eyes.

robmgrig

· #8 · Dec 2, 2009

Is the problem not caused by the first auger being lower than the back one, thus emptying onto the unloading auger first and filling the unload tube first?

ihdriver7088

· #9 · Dec 2, 2009

well that is a great idea i wouldnt mind having it done to mine but ever since i fully opened the slats on the auger hoods my 2577 unload more evenly than it use to and seems to unload out the auger fully till the last 5 bushel

farminflyboy

· #10 · Dec 3, 2009

how will you get the auger to turn backwards, seems like it would take atleast one more idler, maybe 2 if you want alot of wrap around the sprocket so more teeth grab? Good idea though, seems like a simple solution.

doorknob

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 3, 2009

Might this work?

Really dont need much sprocket engaging since it will only power one auger. A slotted bar tightener pivoting on the rear auger shaft, between the idler and the rear sprocket is the primary tension adjustment, then a spring loaded tightener to hold the idler against the chain at the same time tightening the front auger chain.

Think it'll work?

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farminflyboy

· #12 · Dec 3, 2009

KISS...i like it

Doorknob i would appreciate your feedback on my hydraulic sheave idea from a few threads down also.

caseih9280

· #13 · Dec 3, 2009

what if you drilled, say inch holes in the back hood, would that do anything?

yorkiefarmer

· #14 · Dec 3, 2009

Just run it on the inside of back auger 90 degrees or so then around an idler sprocket and back to drive. idler sprocket would have to be large enough so chain could go back to drive and clear driven auger. don't know how to post drawing. idler sprocket would then be on loose side of chain.

doorknob

Discussion Starter · #15 · Dec 3, 2009

Like this?

I was trying to figure out how to mount the idler. I'm likely overlooking something simple. Do you have a bracket design? I keep adding more holes and hardware cause the tinwork is so light in that area.

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yorkiefarmer

· #16 · Dec 3, 2009

thats it, you could use 2 small idlers if you wanted. I would make a 1/4 plate that could be mounted with multiple holes to spread tension to larger area and maybe a stiffener, like channel or angel iron to keep it true. the way you have it drawn the tightener would still work. You could replace bearing support part # 192789C1 with heavier, larger plate and use the holes already there, and make it large enough to add idlers.

doorknob

Discussion Starter · #17 · Dec 3, 2009

Like this?
And then run a brace from the top idler tot he lower idler. The brace would have a hole up top and slot on the lower idler so when you adjust the chain moving the idler inward, the idler axle can move int he brace slot as well as the adjustment slot. ? That might work just super. What do you think?

If you can stick around here now that you've joined, we can show you how to post picture files. I'm trying to get some wheat planted here yet while the weather is clear, but I'll be back online later tonite.

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farminflyboy

· #18 · Dec 3, 2009

I like the one with just the one extra pulley, you could maybe fit a spring tensioner on that.

neukm

· #19 · Dec 3, 2009

This looks interesting!..I had never thought about the reason..makes sense though. Would power requirements increase for unloading on the go?..maybe stress the pre-oil bath systems a little too much?

doorknob

Discussion Starter · #20 · Dec 4, 2009

I dunno. I guess that would be a good time to upgrade to the oil filled box. I imagine it would take a few more horsies since more grain would be moved per revolution. Er, I hope more grain will be moved, wont know for sure till its tried and proven. Might make things worse.

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