The Combine Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone here changed one? do I have to remove the feederhouse to do it? feederhouse was making a loud noise, went and looked and shaft was spinning in about a half inch loop with the collar feeling very hot. cant actually see the bearing because of the slip clutch though. asp trap. any help apreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
We changed ours on both sides but had the feederhouse removed. So I can't comment on whether it can be done without doing that. Maybe removing a tire would work.

When we removed the feederhouse we used a 3 point hitch off the tractor to suspend it. The reason we removed and redone the feeder is that we went to a 4 strand feeder chain and threw out the 3 strand. So we had to redrill and tap the spots where the sacrificial poly was laying and also reposition the "new" tin shields across the top and drill and tap for that. Feederhouse did not come off that hard. We changed sprockets and thought it wise to put new bearings in at the same time since the shaft has to be removed. I was impressed with the bearings as they were double tapered/roller "timken" bearings on each side so should be able to take a lot of guff! Macdon uses that bearing style in their draper roller which makes them last very long!

I think I would remove feederhouse, belt, a couple of hoses, top pins, ram pins a few wires and with a 3 pt hitch and you have it free to remove from the machine to work on it in the shop if your shop isn't big enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
905 Posts
We changed ours on both sides but had the feederhouse removed. So I can't comment on whether it can be done without doing that. Maybe removing a tire would work.

When we removed the feederhouse we used a 3 point hitch off the tractor to suspend it. The reason we removed and redone the feeder is that we went to a 4 strand feeder chain and threw out the 3 strand. So we had to redrill and tap the spots where the sacrificial poly was laying and also reposition the "new" tin shields across the top and drill and tap for that. Feederhouse did not come off that hard. We changed sprockets and thought it wise to put new bearings in at the same time since the shaft has to be removed. I was impressed with the bearings as they were double tapered/roller "timken" bearings on each side so should be able to take a lot of guff! Macdon uses that bearing style in their draper roller which makes them last very long!

I think I would remove feederhouse, belt, a couple of hoses, top pins, ram pins a few wires and with a 3 pt hitch and you have it free to remove from the machine to work on it in the shop if your shop isn't big enough.
How hard was it to change to the 4 strand overall? And do you think going from 3 to 4 was worth it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well I hope these bearings are real special, 500 for the housing and 100 bucks a pop for the bearings
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
Bearing are special as they are double taper. Did the mod to 4 strand and it was a pain. Difficult to drill and tap the small holes. Took a day. Never ran a 3 strand but the other combine had a 4 strand.

The reason we went to 4 stand is for rock damage to slats. Shorter slats mean less damage! I can't really comment on whether was worth it or not. A lot of work to change (drilling new holes for poly strips biggest challenge and the tin shields at top end of feederhouse covering shaft)

Still had some issues with feeder chain jumping a cog. Took someone's elses advice on combine forum and loosened off all slats and then retightened straightening out each slat across the chains. Hope that is going to reset and help!

Interestingly, we found a lot of loose slats on the OEM feeder chain which was new last year when we reset it parallel. I bought another feeder chain for the other combine as standby. Interestingly it has a sticker on it that says "torque verified"! I wonder if that wasn't an issue - why the sticker now? Didn't see that before!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Bearing are special as they are double taper.

Interestingly, we found a lot of loose slats on the OEM feeder chain which was new last year when we reset it parallel. I bought another feeder chain for the other combine as standby. Interestingly it has a sticker on it that says "torque verified"! I wonder if that wasn't an issue - why the sticker now? Didn't see that before!
I guess you have a 9070 right? Mine is a 970 and it's just a standard ball bearing, just with some dumb metric measurement and a tin seal instead of rubber. And an undersized ball bearing at that. Had to torch one off, and it had been done before, shaft was all nicked up. Previous guy wrecked the lock collar so one bearing had spun. Brought the shaft away to be welded up and lathed down, so its all good now. Had about 14 hours into it by all said and done, but I guess I'm a bit of a rookie on this stuff.

I have a harvest services chain, and it jumped 3 times right away, but after I'd hopped it straight a few times it stayed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
I have a harvest services chain, and it jumped 3 times right away, but after I'd hopped it straight a few times it stayed[/QUOTE]

I wonder why some machines have this problem of chain jumping and others don't seem to. I have the three strand chain on a 9070 and not once has it jumped a tooth in over 1000 hrs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'm wonder if it came from rocks? It only happened on the lodged canola I was scraping off the ground, it never did while doing rolled soybeans.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
I guess you have a 9070 right? Mine is a 970 and it's just a standard ball bearing, just with some dumb metric measurement and a tin seal instead of rubber. And an undersized ball bearing at that. Had to torch one off, and it had been done before, shaft was all nicked up. Previous guy wrecked the lock collar so one bearing had spun. Brought the shaft away to be welded up and lathed down, so its all good now. Had about 14 hours into it by all said and done, but I guess I'm a bit of a rookie on this stuff.

I have a harvest services chain, and it jumped 3 times right away, but after I'd hopped it straight a few times it stayed
We have a 9080 and 8090 but assume would be same in 9070. A ball bearing (metric) mustn't be the same as what I got. It is definitely a metric bearing! I believe it was a double tapered roller bearing - haven't looked up the number but they must have changed the design as we have pretty beefy expensive bearings on that shaft.

IMO, I have major issues with kochia patches in fields and I assume my chain jumping originates from there. Don't have any canola so no experience other than that a canola plant looks like a kochia weed somewhat! Thick stocks and love to wind around things in the feeder chain.

My theory on this is that those "stocks" can wedge between the tin shield (very flimsy) and the driver gear for the feeder chain. Some weeds wedge and then some more come along catch and force the chain off the sprocket and it moves out of time.

Interestingly, my brother was following a combine on a flat deck trailer (John Deere). He said he could see that feeder chain probably was 2 links out of time! So I think it is not only NH that has a problem - they all have it if they care to admit it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
We have a 9080 and 8090 but assume would be same in 9070. A ball bearing (metric) mustn't be the same as what I got. It is definitely a metric bearing! I believe it was a double tapered roller bearing - haven't looked up the number but they must have changed the design as we have pretty beefy expensive bearings on that shaft.

IMO, I have major issues with kochia patches in fields and I assume my chain jumping originates from there. Don't have any canola so no experience other than that a canola plant looks like a kochia weed somewhat! Thick stocks and love to wind around things in the feeder chain.

My theory on this is that those "stocks" can wedge between the tin shield (very flimsy) and the driver gear for the feeder chain. Some weeds wedge and then some more come along catch and force the chain off the sprocket and it moves out of time.

Interestingly, my brother was following a combine on a flat deck trailer (John Deere). He said he could see that feeder chain probably was 2 links out of time! So I think it is not only NH that has a problem - they all have it if they care to admit it!

I wonder if the new bearing and housing would fit on the old shaft? Too late now but I just checked and the whole double taper housing is only about 40 dollars more then just the old style ball bearing without housing.

whats the advantage of those tin shields are over a stripper bar like case had? Never seen the case wrap, and in the 5 years i drove cart for a case it never jumped a link.
Did eat feeder chains as quick as the rest of them though.i wonder when they will think of something better then a feeder chain, it's about time for a change
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
Resurrecting this thread.

I'm pretty confident my 970 just finished off it's second feederhouse bearing. Has been the one on the right hand side that has the slip clutch and chains both times. First was around 700ish sep hours. Now at around 1200. Both while cutting peas but that's probably coincidence.

As mentioned before the 970 uses ball bearings. Can they be updated to the taper used on later machines? Asking questions here since dealership was closed when I realized what was wrong.
Dealer tech and I nicked up the shaft a little bit changing it the last time. He advised replacing the shaft that winter. Never did it. I suppose I should plan on either fixing it or a getting new one this time...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
Waiting to hear back from the dealer on what the hubs look like.
Looking at the parts books it looks like it would work to upgrade the bearings. Same inner and outer dimensions. Roller bearing is 7mm wider but it looks like a collar is omitted on the newer 9070/9080. Apparently they used the old style ball bearings up to a certain serial number.

Ideally I guy would get everything out some winter and compare/measure when the machine is in getting serviced.

Parts diagrams for 970 and 9070/9080. Note that #17, 32, and 33 is gone on the newer machines.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
I have just installed a feeder chain on my CR8090. One of the tin shields over the drive shaft was missing. The other two shields were in place. When I changed the feeder chain and the bearings, I did not put any shield back on over the shaft. IMO having it wide open on the back shaft is going to help me prevent this chain from jumping cogs. Material just packs in around those shield and makes it easier to lift the chain off the cogs - JMO!

I don't do any flax or hemp so I am thinking I will not have wrapping problems around the shaft.

Coming from a CaseIH 1688 where there back shaft is completely open, I don't think I will have any issues as long as I don't combine flax? I have been doing peas so far and not a problem. Even though the feeder chain said "Torque Verified", I tightened each nut up about a 1/4 to 1/3 turn so as to help keep the chain square. I am thinking a little extra torque on those nuts will help.

I managed to get 1050 hours out of the feeder chain gears and original chain - but that is very lucky! Some of the teeth were broke off already and the rest had 1/4 inch of meat left on them!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
Talking to dealer it sounds like you need to buy a complete top shaft out of a newer 9070/9080 to upgrade to roller bearings. Part numbers are different even for the shaft even though it looks like it's the same size. The hex to round dimensions may be different with the different size bearings. Waiting to hear what the price will be. Thinking I will do it since my shaft has a little bit of damage from cutting out bearings that last time and still need to get these ones off.

We got some rain this morning and they are talking chances for the next few days so this is probably my chance to go for the upgrade. Who knows what the weather will be next time the ball bearing goes out.

The only time I hear the anti wrap shields is when cutting really green weeds or green canola in high humidity. I have never jumped a feeder cog. Have bent a couple slats. Hope I don't have to switch over to the 4 chain with the different shaft. Something else to ask I guess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
Got done installing the updated stuff today. The housings, bearings, and shaft are different. Everything else can be reused.

Hopefully this lasts better than the old style. The new parts are for 9070/9080 after HAJ111073
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top