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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought this combine at auction last fall and separator clutch refuses to engage the clutch pack? Anyone have a similar problem and any help would be appreciated. The combine had 200 sep hours on it when I bought it. Tech from dealer has put a request on ASIST on Thursday and we are still waiting for a reply back from them.

This is what I do know: (The tech only hooked up the laptop and looked at basic fault codes. Ie. Thresher clutch voltage shows battery voltage of 13.8 when engaged and he has no idea what the Ithresh voltage which toggles on and off at .1 volts for 4 seconds while machine fails to start up means.)

1) Hydraulics running the cleaning fan and chaff spreader attempt to run (ie. turns) until computer decides that the rotor and the rest aren't running. The error code is 61 "thresher speed disengaged" which tells you that rotors aren't turning!
2) The solenoid is activating at block and the internal cartridge that is in the valve block is fully functional. I switched it with the park brake cartridge and I placed the thresher clutch solenoid onto the unloading auger circuit cartridge and it does make the auger start to turn. So all components appear to work electrically.
3) Yes I also have checked the rotor speed sensor and it glows purple and I have tried the rotor in hi-lo and neutral and it shifts appropriately. The rocker bar confirms that all components hooked to the clutch pack when in hi or low do turn!

Any idea of what I need to try next? The peas have been popping like crazy and I have had to bring out the good old reliable non-computerized red machines with lower capacity. I sure hope they can resolve this problem in the next couple of weeks before what cereals we have left can be combined for my brother. I was wiped out by a hail storm on Friday afternoon and I lost everything, peas, durum barley and lentils. Nothing left for me to combine.
 

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Just a few simple things that you have probably checked. Make sure it is in field mode rather than road mode, make sure rotors are NOT in neutral, check that feeder clutch is off. Go to a run screen that shows rotor speed and watch as you engage thresher if it is picking up any revolutions at all before it shuts you down.
Sorry to hear about your bad hail storm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I have looked at that. Road mode brings up a big window that blocks you from engaging anything when you try turning sep on. Nothing on main sep clutch from pulley on out moves or attempts to move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Sorry to hear about the hail damage. Friday was a bad day for hail around the country.
It was very devastating to say the least. I haven't found an acre yet that isn't 100%. Anyone have Hazlet rye for sale. I will have to do something with the pea stubble. Planning to run the discers over it and seed it to rye.
The rotor does turn freely on the combine when it is in neutral.
 

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Ken Adams
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I think with that amount of material (pea), you may still want to run it through combine with lifters on. Diskers may just make it impossible to get through with anything to seed with. Had similar situation a couple years ago and surprisingly salvaged about 10 bu/acre - my truck driver sure was bored that day!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am afraid all peas are shelled out. I wasn't able to find any left in a pod. All cereal crops that were left standing had all the kernels ripped off the cob.
 

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just talked with Harvest support tonight cause my new 9090 does that when oil is warm.. He said you need 8.0 software that just came out. Something about a sensor being moved and needs more time before it kicks out.
 

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mine is a 2014. I noticed it engages really slow and one harvest started if you shut down in the middle of the day and re engage within a few minutes it doesn't want to go. Fan goes right away but no rotor speed for a bit so it kicks itself out
 

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Ok then I'll start harvest in about 5-6 weeks down here in Australia mine is a 2014 cr8090 but it's built in Belgium I wounded is it the same , so
It just needs a software update? Will it start when it cools down an keep going or does it stop as soon as it gets warm
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Finally got an ASIST back and it said to check the pressure at the valve block. It is supposed to be 362 PSI!! The pressure reads 0 . . . . .so the dealer/tech fires off another ASIST giving them that data!! I can't believe it. I went to my dealer with the problem a week ago (since last Thursday) with the problem. The girl that worked on it said she updated the software!! The mechanics nowadays are just a bunch of computer jockeys! Thanks for the tip on the sensor that may have malfunctioned and the relay that maybe bad. The one mechanic said one of the relays was really hot. I don't know if he troubleshoot that any further or not. I will ask him tomorrow. You would have thought that if a sensor malfunctioned the computer could at least throw up an error code which could help solve the mystery - not keep you in the dark! It will be interesting to see what the problem will have been.

I guess nobody wants to pull something apart if it is not broke!
 

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I don't turn mine off unless I sit for a few minutes. Once engaged it stays in fine. If you've ever slugged the rotors you know how after it tries to engage it safeties out if it won't go. This is the same way. It just engages so slow it times out before it gets a rotor speed reading. Mine has only done this a few times. I stopped for lunch for 5 minutes and it engaged no problem. Also after moving fields its fine as well.
 

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I don't turn mine off unless I sit for a few minutes. Once engaged it stays in fine. If you've ever slugged the rotors you know how after it tries to engage it safeties out if it won't go. This is the same way. It just engages so slow it times out before it gets a rotor speed reading. Mine has only done this a few times. I stopped for lunch for 5 minutes and it engaged no problem. Also after moving fields its fine as well.
You de-slug at an idle? If you press and hold the throttle at the exact same time you engage the thresher it will speed up the engine to about 1800 and then engage. Won't stop unless the motor dies.
 

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Just rattled across this thread.

Is it possible there is a sensor that is either shot or not adjusted right that shows if the gearbox is in high or low (or neutral if there is one).

When I shift into 3rd range on my 8230 sometimes it will not allow me to engage. I usually wiggle the lever a little bit and then it is good. I probably need to adjust my cable a bit to get it just right.



Just a thought. No idea if it is the case, but might be worth a look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Finally got to the bottom of this after 1 week of sending in ASISTs and waiting for them to do the troubleshooting for the dealer. They are now in the process of tearing the combine apart to get at the clutch pack itself. You would think NH in their infinite wisdom would have come up with a better alarm system (ie. pressure sensor on the clutch pack) to let you know that a seal or clutch pack itself is burned out. They seem to monitor everything else! I don't need an idiot block to come up on the display to tell me that the rotor isn't turning because the sensor can't see it. I want to know why the rotor isn't turning, low oil, low pressure or whatever.

Buyer beware. This was a RB combine, traded in from a JD dealer and originating from Moodys - they seemingly had a tiff with the former owner and nothing ever was fixed. I just hope I will get warranty on it - never mind that I will have lost 2 weeks of combining with it. As I said before, most technicians are keyboard jockeys, update software and use very little common sense when it comes to tryingand finding problems.

I am thinking if I do keep this combine I will be plumbing in a pressure gauge to watch the clutch pack pressure. They got all kinds of sensors to tell you that the ladder is down and that your combine is in "ROAD" position. Why not monitor the important things like clutch pack pressure? Tearing a combine 1/2 a part to get to that is not fun. In my estimation, low clutch pack pressure will likely slip/burn clutch disks and before you realize it, nothing works anymore. You blame the feeder slug/plug on other things when the real problem might be right at the engine drive train where it all starts!
 
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