[brewmax]

earlier this week i noticed that the chaffer and sieve frames were beginning to get stress cracks in them. took the sieves out and had a welder come out and weld them back up. the bottom sieve seemed to be the worst that i could find/see. it was cracked at the rear corner on each side. i know this is pretty common on these machines, just wondering what kind of luck to expect out of welding them up??? i didnt want to take the time to gut it and put in new frames so this was the best choice for the time. the upper one was cracked about midway to the front on the left side. i looked at all bushings and bolts and they appeared to be in good shape. i have noticed that Abilene Machine makes and after market frame for each and its advertised to be heavier built than the oem one has anyone ran one of these and what kind of luck did you have???

tia

jon

 

[greentech]

Not sure about the Abilene frame but you should check the bearings and flanges on the eliptical castings at the front of the shaker arms. If they're loose it's hard on the sieve/chaffer frames because the direction change is not smooth. While you have them apart check the stationary bearings that hold that shaft to the separator shell.

 

[matthewsfarms]

The screens from abilene work great and bolt right in. I have them on my 6620 and never had a problem.

 

[wheatwhacker]

We welded up our sieve frame on our 9610 when we bought it as it was broke when we got it. It was a clean break and must not have been run like that for long. Anyway we welded it up and that was over 1500 hours ago. We keep an eye on it and I guess keep our fingers crossed. Maybe we are just lucky.

 

[davedan]

If you notice on all those machines including 9600s the top rear rail of the chaffer has a slight bow, this comes with age and is easy to fix, once it bowes in the middle a bit it puts stress on the outer mounting plates where the arms hook up. I always remove the chaffer frame, flit it over and add a half inch by 3/8" thick strip of flat stock ON EDGE in front and rear under side of the frame, one between the weld nuts for the chaffer elements and front holes of tailings element. This may sound confusing but once you turn it over it will be obvious where to lay a strip of metal. May take a few whacks of a sledge to straighten the bow out first. Put a strip in front and rear and that will stop the side pull of the outer mounts. 9500s never had this problem because they were narrow enough to still have good strength across the width of the chaffer frame. If other cracks have come up it may be because the shoe bolts were tightened in wrong sequence or the stroke of the shoe was not in the center when the bolts were torqued. OR they sheared a bolt here or there at one time and it was hammering around, seen that happen too, caused cracks.
MOST IMPORTANT.... If the shoe has ever been worked on check The cams on the shoe shaft that have the large roller bearings on them ALL have different part numbers, and all go on the shaft ONLY in one order facing ONLY one way. Look at your parts book for the part numbers and it shows which side each number goes to, Ive seen guys who thought that since they looked similar they were the same part,,, keyways are cut in different degrees. 30 hours of that maddness and your shoe is junk