I have a 1989 1620 with the ih engine and it is a good engine but it's not got alot of power i run a 1044 corn head & 15 foot 1020 grian head. The combine is a good machine you don't need to get in a big hurry it. Mark
Thanks For the reply Mark. Yeah the one that I am looking at comes with 15 ft 1020 Header also . And I have a 844 corn header that I run on my 715. I plan on running that on the 1620 if I get it. How many acres do you pick with your machine, and what would be maximum amount of acre you would try to pick with a 1620? Chris
Chris in 06 i picked 150 acres of wheat,200 acres of corn and 275 acres of soybeans, and got a long good, but corn will be your slowest because of yeid which is a good thing. I slowed my corn head down last year and it worked a lot better because of head loss.I can't run but 1.8 - 2.5 mph picking corn with 130bpa and up, but it does a very good job shelling and clening the crop.You will like setting up the combine ,it's a lot easyer than the 715. Fill free to ask any questions.Mark
We run a 1420, purchased new in 81, we run 2.75 mph in 150 bu corn with no problems. We have the 358 german engine and we have opened the pump,that made a big differance. If we dump on the go we can fill a EZ Trail 500 in 45-50 minutes. We put a new cage in it awhile back,got in to some tough beans,they roped and the cage mounts broke. I really think we could run along side a JD 6620 with no problems. As far as fuel goes, with the german 358,we never get more than 3 gallons an hour through it,straight-up. Its a great combine and I don't know what we could ever replace it with.
Thanks for the helpful information this will differently help with my decision. I would also like to ask your opinion about the machine cost. It has 1500 hrs., look pretty good the paint is faded some. Cab area in good shape. Sheet metal on the rear of the machine has some dent stuff but not too bad. He has just put a new rotor in. I looked at the rotor and the paint is still new, he hasn't even ran any crops through it since it was replaced. He asking 15k, is this too much or about right for this machine?
We will mostly be picking Wheat, beans, and some corn. We grow some of our on but mainly we are picking for other farmers around here now. This started with the 715 we purchased 2 year ago. So I am looking to see what this machine is capable of doing. I guess a good question would be how fast are you picking good yield beans and wheat? We will probably pick about 400 ac. altogether this year with wheat, beans and corn.
We bought one new in 1986, think we paid like 80,000 cnd. with a1044, 15' 1020. Ran it for 6 seasons got like 62,000 for it with grain head on trade for 1660. Approx 6,000 acres through it best year ever was 1300 acres in one year! Fuel per acre was the least of any machine we owned (11 combines since) Rear seal , rock trap bearings, the only things I remember replacing. Great Machine for us. Only 125hp. totalty a limiting factor 20" rotor. But for your acreage I think a great buy. We ran a larger tire so it required a little more hp We should have turned the pump up 20% to help out! Good luck Its always fun to buy stuff!!!!
The only problems that are on going with our 1420 is no brakes,spent a lot of time and money and the dealer could not get them to work. There are 3 different sets of wheel bearings for the rear axle on the 1420, ours has the smallest,dropped her twice. I really like the combine and I don't remember the combine schools back then, but I dout that the 1620 is all that much different than the 1420. The stone retarder,,,,better than nothing and thats where it ends. As far as the 20 inch rotor is concerned your going to run out of cleaning capacity long before your out of threshing capacity. We were told in the shop that at the schools the mechanics went to,they were told that the 20's had a better feed efficencey then the bigger machines,I want to say that at that time it was because the 20's only used 2 impeller ears,and maybe thats why later on the bigger rotors only had 2 as well. It is sad that the 20's were dropped,and the 60's for that matter,I think they all had more capacity than given credit for.
I just found this web site a few weeks ago and I think it is a great thing.
He told me that what the dealer that done the repair said " some kind of flat rock must had went through the rotor and caused it to come apart". Because I ask the very same question. He also said that the dealer told him it was just a freak accident. But we looked it over ran the separator and everything seems to work fine. But I did notice one thing when I removed the side cover to look at the rotor. It was the buildup of material outside the rotor area on the outside of the concaves. I did not understand this but I have not run a rotor machine before. I have some pictures of this machine when I figure out how to post them.
Also just found out about site, great. The 1620 I agree is a great little combine. Does it have a chopper? Here in MN we have put 20ft 1020s on 1420-1620's and got along fine. Good Luck in your purchase
yes, it does have the chopper . We have also discussed with some of our customers for this year on what will be in the field. It looks like we maybe picking more corn than I had first projected. I when to a sale today and a 1063 corn header brought $11,250. I could not believe that the header was sold for that.
i have ran a 1986 1620 since 1998. prior to that i ran a 715 for 10 years. lets just say i am much happier with the 1620. i run a 15' 1020 and 843 ch. ran both heads on both combine. it has around 3200 hours. it has rock trap, reverser, chopper and standard rotor. it has a been extension called "c-thru". it will hold around 150 bu. i also have a chaffer spreader. it had a lot work done to it before i bought it. i've had only 1 big repair. but i do go over it every year and try to stay ahead of the repairs. the biggest draw back is the lack of after market parts. dealer will have them w/o any problems. i farm 275 acres half corn and beans. if your pressed for time i would look for something bigger. i paid a lot more for mine with a lot more hours with no heads. price sounds good if hours are accurate.
here is any insepction checklist a dealer gave me when i was looking.
Inspection checklist for Axial Combines
1. Put rotor gear box in neutral, open both sides of the rotor and roll the rotor over 360 degrees for balance.
2. Remove the 2 inspection panels on left side of the machine at ground level, inspect the rasp bars on the rotor.
3. Check concave sections (3) for damage.
4. Check the grates (3) under the back 1/2 of the rotor to make sure the are the "key stock" style.
5. Check the straight bars on the rear 1/2 of the rotor are not worn out.
6. Inside the rotor cage are vanes, 360 degrees around the inside, make sure they are not missing or laid flat.
7. The 3 augers under the concaves need to be check for wear, razor thin....
8. Check the top sieve condition; make sure it is not "trashed".
Removing the 2 left side panels just behind the left front drive tire can inspect all of the above.
9. Open the clean out door to the vertical auger, razor thin???
10. Inspect the 2 vertical auger drive gears at the same location. These are open gears & must be greased regularly or will show excessive wear.
11. At the front of the rotor, remove the inspection panel just the feeder house (10" x 24")
Check the impeller wear bars for wear, if worn to the point where the "elephant ears"/impeller bars show signs of wear, ALL the wear bars AND the elephant ears will have to be replaced. These are sold in matched sets for balance.
12. Up on top check the horizontal auger for wear.
13. Check the 90-degree auger pivot section is not broken out at the base where the grease tubes discharges.
14. Are the floor augers thin??
15. Check the top of the clean grain elevator for wear/breakage & sprockets for wear.
16. Open the access door to the rotor drive belt & variable speed pulley, climb down into the work area, check all belts. CAREFULLY inspect the housing weldments, sheet metal supports that are the rear support of the rotor itself. This is a weak area.
To do this face the grain tank/rear of the rotor with the variable speed pulley on your right side.
17. Don't move and reach down with your left hand for the small dipstick that is the rotor drive reservoir. It has a small capacity and leaks into the rotor chamber which you never see.
18. Check all normal items. Lights, clutch, brakes heater, air etc.
19. In the cab, on the left side, just under the window is a panel for access to all of the electrical controls, relays etc. mice??
20. The final drives need to be checked for "rolling torque" as part of the negotiations. There maybe some marks on the final drive to indicate the date of service, torque reading etc.
21. Check the front axle frame weldments where the frame is connected to the front axle.
Thanks for check list and everything this has been alot of help to us. I will bring it home next week! I all so found out it does have a speical rotor. I do have a question about picking wheat for someone who bales the straw. People tell me that the rotor breaks up the straw too bad for them to bale it. Also how do you do this if you have a straw chopper? Which this one does. One guy we pick for is some what worried about this and I told him we would check to see if there was anything we could do to help this. I am looking for suggestions if anybody has some.
Well, i know it might be different, but on our 2388's you can take out the stationary knives or drop them down and out of the way and i think you can unhook the belt for the rotary chopping blades. Take off the spreaders and your dropping straw. Rotors do tear the straw up more than a walker machine will, not sure on how you could help it, loosen the concaves up some?