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They are amazing tools, I don't have one with adjustable gangs like you would be looking for, we purchased one to dry out ground and size up corn residue that we could not seed through, it is ridiculous how fast you can get into fields that you wouldn't otherwise, we run a 30 foot great plains turbo till and pull it with 500+ hp and we were able to seed into ground that had standing water on it in 3 days with a 1/4 in of rain between when we worked it and seeded it, the best part is that it left the residue on top, we tried the disc, chisel plow and a rotary narrow in diff places, the harrow helped but not enough, the disc and chisel plow was worthless because we could not work hardly anything that we couldn't already seed and what we did get done with both when it rained the water seemed to pool there even worse plus now we had crap for a seed bed, we had some ground that had not been seeded in 4 years due to being so wet, one pas with the turbo till and one with the rotary harrow and we were making dust.

I really believe that anyone giving one the time of day will eventually own one, what I have is not what your looking for to kill weeds, to do that you will need one with adjustable gangs or a Horsch Anderson Joker
 

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Farmer Roy.
True vertical tillage drops the straw, fluffs and dries the ground and does some light leveling, but is no good for weed removal.
There`s lots of info on the Net.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Farmer Roy.
True vertical tillage drops the straw, fluffs and dries the ground and does some light leveling, but is no good for weed removal.
There`s lots of info on the Net.

ok thanks
last thing I want to be doing here is drying out my ground :)
main interest is controlling resistant weeds as we starting to see some glyphosate resistance in ryegrass & higher populations of hard to kill plants like fleabane


those speed tillers look interesting but I've yet to see one in action around here, look like they would be good at levelling the soil


am also thinking about cover crops & green manure, I'm guessing they would be good at incorporating residue?
 

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ok thanks
last thing I want to be doing here is drying out my ground :)
main interest is controlling resistant weeds as we starting to see some glyphosate resistance in ryegrass & higher populations of hard to kill plants like fleabane


those speed tillers look interesting but I've yet to see one in action around here, look like they would be good at levelling the soil


am also thinking about cover crops & green manure, I'm guessing they would be good at incorporating residue?
Have a look at K-lines speed tiller for shallow incorporation or CaseIH 330 turbo or the heavier framed Landoll VT. Are you on heavy clay plains there?
 

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The last thing I want to do in West Oz is blacken the ground and dry it out....�� really want to kill weeds though..still don't get why it's called vertical tillage..
Well I will say please inform me of a weed killing piece of tillage equipment that would not dry out the soil, the thing about vertical till is that it allows the moisture to go down in the soil if you choose to not blacken it up

Vertical till does not create a smear pan if running blades straight, they will do some when angled but not as bad as a disc because it has wavy blades to still lift and fracture.

If you don't want to till anything you wont kill anything so maybe this thread should have been what else can I spray to kill resitant weeds?

Try Liberty and clethodym maybe, or even just clethodym with glyphosate to try knock it down, talk to your local agronomist
 

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Well I will say please inform me of a weed killing piece of tillage equipment that would not dry out the soil, the thing about vertical till is that it allows the moisture to go down in the soil if you choose to not blacken it up

Vertical till does not create a smear pan if running blades straight, they will do some when angled but not as bad as a disc because it has wavy blades to still lift and fracture.

If you don't want to till anything you wont kill anything so maybe this thread should have been what else can I spray to kill resitant weeds?

Try Liberty and clethodym maybe, or even just clethodym with glyphosate to try knock it down, talk to your local agronomist
I hear you, realise that cultivation will always dry the soil, just was having a chuckle about our two farming systems, one waits for the ground to dry out the other waits for the ground to wet up..as for weeds we have resistance to all those chemicals mentioned, hence the need for another form of control..glyphosate resistance is about to go mental..
 

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I play the same no till game but the last few years have changed the game ( as far as periods of when it rains it poors and when its dry its dry, so when I need to get in I can and when it is dry I still have my residue on top) and conventional tillage seems to make matters much worse
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Would a Noble Blade work for your conditions. Not sure if they made them down there but they are an oversized cultivator shovel that would cut the roots on the weeds and leave the stubble standing


they were pretty popular here in the eastern states in the 70's / 80's before we got cheap glyphosate, but you NEVER see them for sale or at farm auctions. The people who do own the remaining ones seem to hang on to them & pull them out when needed


in my experience with them here ( especially the big ones ) they either did a great job, or were just a boat anchor, depending on the soil & moisture conditions


I know of a few 9 blade Nobles near me ( original owners ), have been keeping my eyes out for one but . . . . .


I do have an old 3 blade Noble, but seeing as my planting gear is 12 metres, 15 ' is a bit painful :)


do they still make them??
 

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I'd never heard "vertical tillage" until Great Plains came out with the Turbo Till, and they used the term to include their rippers. Any tillage that doesn't invert the soil can be called vertical tillage.

And Sunflower still makes sweeps, using the old Flex-King and Richardson designs.
 

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I play the same no till game but the last few years have changed the game ( as far as periods of when it rains it poors and when its dry its dry, so when I need to get in I can and when it is dry I still have my residue on top) and conventional tillage seems to make matters much worse

+1 same here.


our soil when worked and then rained on turns to soup. no till works good for keeping soil stable. but some times its not fit for planting so a Phillips harrow or light vertical till works great.
 

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they were pretty popular here in the eastern states in the 70's / 80's before we got cheap glyphosate, but you NEVER see them for sale or at farm auctions. The people who do own the remaining ones seem to hang on to them & pull them out when needed


in my experience with them here ( especially the big ones ) they either did a great job, or were just a boat anchor, depending on the soil & moisture conditions


I know of a few 9 blade Nobles near me ( original owners ), have been keeping my eyes out for one but . . . . .


I do have an old 3 blade Noble, but seeing as my planting gear is 12 metres, 15 ' is a bit painful :)


do they still make them??
There is a 30' Noble for sale at Forbes on farmclearingsales.com.au
I would think they would create serious hard pan issues, or do you put them in 10" or more?
 
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