[gregorym]

I'm still learning the fine points on the rotor machines. I took out a couple acres of corn today to try out the N6. I just got the machine last spring. I had excessive cob breakage and an overloaded shoe. At first I had the concave clearance at 5/8 in and opened it up to 3/4. I didn't bring the adjustment back up and it ended up about 7/8 in and haven't tried it back to 3/4. I am running the rotor at 460. That is the fastest the guage shows in low range. The breakage much improved when I adjusted to 7/8 but should still be better. Should I shift into high range and try 550 rpm. The corn was testing 16.5. It is muddy in the field and got a few days to mess around with the machine. I have an 830 head and running about 2.8 mph in 150 bu corn. Do I need to drive faster too or does that seem about the right speed. Also what should the cobs be like when coming out the dischage. I guessing halves to maybe 3rd cob with a few whole ones here and there. I also believe there are a couple reverse bars on and it is a stock rotor setup and probably still set up like when it came from the factory in 83. Thanks greg

 

[drallis]

You will never run a whole cob on any "N" with a standard processor. Also, you don't mention what model year it is. Do you know if it has the original rock door?? This is important as running at 7/8" for corn would be OK if the rock door doesn't fall open !!! I used to adjust the door/concave so at 1 inch open, the rear bar of the concave was flush with the cage weldment bar at the rear. The door then had to be adjusted to work at that setting and then you could not do wheat or oats without readjusting. I always tried to keep rotor speeds down around 300 rpm because any higher the rotor loss in corn was too high. Ground speed?? I expected full out in 2nd gear(5.5 to 6 mph) with a 6-30 cornhead and 16 percent corn at 150 bpa. Long finger (1 5/8") square tip corn chaffer is a must with front 8 rows independent of the remaining rows. Cleaning fan does not need to be fully open either if all else is right...around "6" works well.

 

[gregorym]

The N6 is a series 3. I believe the serial number was 5000 something. I work full time also and got a chance to look over the rotor real well tonight. I checked the zero setting and the guage was at 1/4 in when the bar would rub the front concave and level with the rotor. So I guess, I was actually set at 1/2 to 5/8 and not 3/4. I cannot adust the guage to zero as it is already bottomed out. So I'll make a note on there. I'm thinking that could be much of my problem. I don't know if the door is orginal. I see it has a hump in it before the concave. I've never been around any other ones except we have a junked out N5. I have the long square tooth chaffer in there. I notice a few bad spots in it and was going to pull it out. I also have an extra square tooth long chaffer with a wider gap. My N5 has the small round tooth chaffer in it. I was thinking of going with that one for better cleaning. Maybe, I'll fix up the one in there and add a rod to move the font ones independently. It is raining here and awfully cold. I wouldn't be suprised if the ground is white by morning. Thanks for info. Also, do you then run the very front portion more open or closed? Greg

 

[gpurrs]

Lowering the rear of the concave will also help.300to330RPM 3/4 to 7/8 concave, sieve 1/2,try to clean sample with chaffer in corn. Square tooth will clean cobs out best. Keep machine loaded.

 

[nealj]

Just wondering how much diffrtrnce there is between long round tooth and long square tooth chaffer?

 

[drallis]

As far as performance/cleaning in corn??? With the front 8 rows on a square tip independent from the other rows, I can actually do soybeans and usually a good job. 1 5/8" round tip chaffers for corn should be left loose on a trailer and hope it falls off going down the road. They just don't usually work very well.

 

[gregorym]

I was going to put in the round one, but maybe I'll opt out. My square tooth one that is current in the combine has some damage to it. I pulled the chaffer and was looking at it. There are clips on the end of the rods. Can I pull the clip and pull the rod out and change out a few of the teeth. It looks like on the teeth, it is stamped or tacked and doesn't look very easy to come off. It doesn't look very hard to seperate out the front 8 rows. I'm guessing just cut the flat iron and add another lever and rod to the front. Am I thinking right that the front is more open than the center. Thanks for the good info. Greg