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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We recently purchased an 84 F2 4wd with a 4 row stripper head and a 15' flex head for sunflowers. I know neither of these are the proper heads for the harvest but for this year it's going to have to do. We are brand new at combining, and there are not many machines in our neck of the woods to be honest, so checking out the neighbor's is out of the question. I have two questions for now.

1. On the tattletale, I am keep getting two lights that will not go out. The first is the thresher door light. I checked the door and it was open which would explain why we were having plugging problems. I closed it, and within 50 feet it was open again. I checked the latch and it seems to be worn a little bit. My question is, is there a way to tighten the spring on the latch, or should I try to weld an edge back onto it?
2 Secondly, how big of a row-crop header can an F-2 handle? 4,6,8? We are not doing huge amounts of land, maybe a 100 acres a year, but we would like to go as big as possible in case we expand in the near future. Thanks Mike
 

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if the thresher door is still latched and came open the striker plate is worn, the staionary one can be flipped. the door latch is pretty precision and can get worn. If you do weld up it must be near perfect. The weldment is 71129380 pricey at $200 but is a multiweldment and drilling. Any F-F2 will work. IF it is unlatching drive out the roll pin and add shims or washer under the spring. Latch the door and push up to see if there is any slack of 'bounce' . IF so de shim striker plate to make it snug. The light on the switch must ground to put out the light. What is the second light? As to header, tough finding anything over 16'. Any F - F2 - F3 will work, but has different auto header height control. 16-20' were bout max built. As to row crop an F2 is loaded with 630 corn head on 150bu corn at 2 mph and doesn't like hillsides at all. Do the math on your yield and figure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sorry forgot to mention the second light...
says straw walker. no buzzers or anything, the light just stays on. We are combining tall sunflowers and I have found that the stalks keep pulling the door open (I think) I have had it go off when I finally had the door for a bit. I will try shimming or de-shimmingit instead of welding it. I will do a little research on the row crop heads.
Anybody on here have any experience with sunflowers planted on 7" spacing vs 30"?. Trying to get less height on the stalks, and more population without losing the yield. We are doing this for oil to be processed
 

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the walker light is a micro switch just under a metal flap right at the back of the straw walkers attached to the top underside roof of the sheetmetal above the walkers. Either the switch is stuck or a wire is off. Grounding the wire put the light out. Same as the door. No grounding of the wire, the light goes on. IF you fix these and you have no beeper when a light comes on someone has cut the wire to the buzzer or the module is bad.
 

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I would say the walker light is most likely a broken wire. Material can get built up over time in behind the metal flap that runs the switch. This happened to our 79 F2 this fall, as the soybean stalks forced the wire out of the connector. As for row crop heads, i would not go over a 4 row because you will creep with a 6 row, and they are hard to find a 6 row for an f2 without modifying it. We can run our A-430 at 3 mph in 240 bushel corn, especially when it is nice and dry.
 
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