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I am hearing today that our "new to us" 3450 cart has a crack in the 3rd tank.

Has anyone ever successfully fixed these? they tried JB Weld yesterday but it didn't fully fix it. This is our first year with a poly tank... :confused:

Has anyone replaced just the tank on a FC cart? I am assuming that is something we need to get directly from the factory?

I am back at my office job this week but I have asked if someone down there can send me a picture of the crack so I have an idea what we are dealing with.
 

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Get a poly weld kit, seems to me flaman stocks them. We welded ours, had a crack inside up near the top.

It's like a soldering iron that works with plastic filler wire that you feed through it. Takes a little practice but once your on to it it's easy. Also fixed a flexicoil spray tank years ago that still holds now. A good steel welder would get onto it in no time flat.
 

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The tank that we picked up a couple years ago had a previous repair, it had a piece of tin that was pounded to the correct shape and then siliconed and riveted into place from the inside of the tank.

I have a neighbour who has pulled all his tanks off to convert from tow behind to tow between. It was a very involved process, all the metering had to come off and depending on which tank it is one or two of the other tanks had to come out too. I assume you are talking about the rear tank which i think can be removed by itself. Once it is out there are special seals and sealant from Flexicoil for putting it back together. And finally, finding another tank would be.....expensive I would think, I haven't priced one out that is just a guy feel. This is all a very involved process, not something I wouldn't attempt during seeding.
 

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I agree that a new tank is likely an expensive way to go! And definitely not something you want to do this time of year!

I haven't had much luck with the poly weld kits, but that was many years ago. Maybe they are better now? Can't remember though - Do you need to vee out the poly a bit?

Failing that, I'd look at siliconing a piece of light gauge metal over the crack area with some bolts through to hold everything together. Neighbour did that one on a 1500 gallon tank in the back of his 3 ton - still holds water today!

Andrew
 

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Ours has a crack too, front tank, we tried jb weld, no luck, it does not flex. I have welded my water tank about 10 years ago and it is still holding, I used puckboard for my rod. If I screwed that up there was no loss as the the tank was f***** in the first place. I have not tried to weld this one as I did not want to f*** it up, right now I just throw silicone in the hole and tape it with gorilla tape. We have had this crack for the last 3 years and it seems to work. There may still be a small air leak as when I get down to the last few bushels, my ultrasonic depth indicator goes up instead of down. That comes from the chaff blowing around. I cringe when I think of the dollars and time involved in replacing the tank. All them rusted bolts.
 

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We have done a lot of fiberglass work in the bottoms of the tank converting them to hold liquid. Scuff / clean / mat / resin. Been holding liquid for 3 years. Tried every sealer and glue we could find but nothing would bind to the tanks so fiberglass it was. Might want to try it.
 

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We have a small plastic manufacturing facility on our farm. (we manufactured screen-o-matics back in the pull type combine/swather days but thats pretty much dead). We fix a couple per year of tanks for farmers in the area. All you need to fix it is a heat gun with a welding tip and some similar plastic filler rod/wire. Its a easy process. The thing about polyethylene is, there is no glue on earth that works for it because of it always being "oily".
 
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