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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to go nuts trying to get some dicamba stunted beans cut. It's an 84 L3 & I'm constantly plugging the feeder beater. The slip clutch is properly shimmed with 6 springs.It has a St. John's enclosed cylinder & 9 bar concave with about 1300 acres on it . Bars look very good. Running 3/8" cylinder gap at 600 rpm. Auger is up & all the way forward: reel as low as possible and back to auger.Beater fingers are about 1" off bottom in the middle position. Would it help to raise the beater and maybe retract the fingers sooner(all the way clockwise)? Also, does anyone know what bars are used on the St. John's cylinder? The left & right bars are 18" long with 3 holes & look like forward & reverse bars off rotary. The center one is 13" long with 2 holes. I can't find anything like this. I thought the paper that came with it said to use R62 bars, but parts don't show anything like my center bar. Any ideas? The bars are narrow spaced & I would kike to use wide spaced. Maybe help feeding? Just do corn & beans. Old Gleaner is doing an awesome job except for those shorties! Thanks for your help.
 

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Are the jaws in the slip clutch good? In some crops and varieties it would happen. I carried an anti slip, slip clutch under the seat in case (welded jaws)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Forgot to say header is a 320 flex. silverrod: just put on new jaws this morning. I tried shimming the clutch to lock it up. Broke the chain.
 

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Fixed or floating beater? Mine is fixed and operates better now that I raised it from what it was at when we got it. Used to plug all the time in beans.
 

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The opening under the beater is 4 1/4". Not sure if the adjuster is the same on your L3, there's 3/4" gap left to open up more on my adjuster. Before opening up the gap it would constantly get jammed with corn cobs as well.
 

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My L2 has fixed beater and I run it at max height all the time. I have changed where the fingers retract but haven't found a lot of difference. Is the wad of beans plugging the beater in the same place all the time? Sometimes I found it to be at either end and the wad is between the finger and housing sidewall. When that happens I remove the outer fingers. That is against advice from others on the forum but it works for me. Have you tried to change where the fingers on header auger retract? Is the flighting worn on the auger or bent someplace? That will cause a slug resulting in the irritating tat-tat-tat-tat of the slip clutch.

Uneven header flow is generally the problem and the feeder beater can't deal with it. If there was a reliable reverser made it wouldn't be so darn frustrating. When you move the auger forward make sure to adjust the retarder extensions as well. Run the header as low as possible to minimize the angle of the feather sheets. If the beans are building at or just behind the knife then an air bar/reel is supposed to cure the problem. Another spot of trouble I have is the strip just ahead of the auger that holds the feather sheet down. It's about 3/16" thick and I have wondered it I should remove it and add some extra hold down bolts instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It is usually packed tighter at the ends, but I'm not sure that it isn't the auger jamming more in before I can shut it off. My beater was down pretty far. With fingers at max extension, they were just off the bottom. I raised the beater up near max this afternoon & set the fingers for early retraction (fully clockwise). I ground the flighting a couple years ago & it's still good. What are the retarder extensions? Never heard of them. When the auger fingers are pointing straight back, they are fully retracted.In normal height beans I can run 4 mph ok. I have some that got hit with dicamba drift that are really stunted, about 1 foot tall. These are what are giving me fits. Maybe raising the beater will do it. Rain tomorrow so I'll have to wait to try it. If not ,I'll try taking off the outside fingers.
 

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Ran L-2's and 3's for years and usually found a problem like yours was due to worn cylinder bars not grabbing material away from the beater but rather pounding it forward and jamming the beater. Not familiar with the St Johns setup though.....could that be the problem? Had both fixed and floating beaters and found little difference between the them.
 

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The retarder extensions are the strips that sit behind the auger across the width of the header. They are supposed to stop material from coming around the auger. If I see slug of beans come over the auger, most times it will be just enough extra material to plug the feed beater. In a good crop with even flow it generally isn't an issue. We move the auger forward to grab the beans sooner but then create another problem with extra space in behind. I also took the channel off the stone trap door in case it was holding back the beans a bit. I replaced my cylinder bars a few years ago with a set from Trimpe's. They take a worn set of wide spaced bars and build them up with tungsten. I haven't noticed much wear on them yet and are definitely more aggressive than the standard ones.



Has anyone tried to speed up the feed beater with a smaller driven sprocket? I've increased the header drive speed sometimes but that gets a bit hard on the knife drive and has the auger spinning too fast.
 

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Has anyone tried to speed up the feed beater with a smaller driven sprocket? I've increased the header drive speed sometimes but that gets a bit hard on the knife drive and has the auger spinning too fast.[/QUOTE]

I don't think a smaller driven sprocket would be as easy to come up with as a larger drive sprocket on the threasher countershaft.

Looks like they make or made an 18t drive sprocket for rice, but it's a single sprocket. My memory is a bit hazy, but doesn't the double sprocket drive both the feeder beater and the right side of a corn head? If that's the case, when doing beans you could make up any size single drive sprocket you want to match the speed you need.

No need to make this any more complicated than it needs to be!
 

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Something else to think about: i seem to remember needing fighting extention on the header table conveyor to make the 320 head feed the threasher opening on my M2. Carries the materiel to the beater better.

Just thinking that might maybe make your L feed better, with less stuff getting stuck at the edges of the opening.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I see what the retarders are now. I always called it a stripper. Looking at AGCO parts page , there should be holes across the top to bolt on extensions. Mine have no extensions or holes to put them on. The auger isn't carrying over, and it works better than it did before moving it. As for the cylinder, it has narrow spaced bars that I would like to replace with wide spaced ones if I could figure out which ones to use. Bar details in first post. They look good with good leading edges. I've thought about putting on the 38 tooth sprocket(mine's 44). Think I'll take off the channel on the door as suggested. Beans are threshing good so shouldn't hurt. Rain next few days, so I'll have to wait. Thanks to all for your help. 38 tooth part# 71300218
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, raising the feeder beater & retracting the fingers seems to have done the trick. Ran beans all afternoon and didn't stop once! The old girl ran like a top. Thanks everyone for your replies and have a safe harvest.
 

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Has anyone tried to speed up the feed beater with a smaller driven sprocket? I've increased the header drive speed sometimes but that gets a bit hard on the knife drive and has the auger spinning too fast.
The corn/soybean machines had a 44 tooth sprocket, the grain machines had a 38 tooth. Sprocket on the main feederhouse shaft remains unchanged.

Mike's Equipment, Buhler KS should have plenty of 38 tooth sprockets on hand.
 
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