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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2011 740 feeder settles down with or without header on. From fully raised, it settles down to the safety stop in a few hours without a header on.

I would like to know where to look for the possible issue. I know it could be the cylinders but don't have a good way of testing them without buying some type of oil line caps. A mechanic mentioned the valve body gets worn and the entire block needs replaced.

I would like to know how some of you test the settling issue to find the actual problem.
 

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Remember that all lift cylinders are 1 way, so any oil leaking in the cylinder is going to come out the front. Some models have "case return lines" on the from of the cylinder to catch any seepage. SO any leakage that gets past the cylinder rams is going to either show up as a mess on the end of the cylinder, or come out the fitting on the case returns if they are disconnected.

Most likely, its the valve. You are correct that the only way to really tell would be a high pressure 1/4 turn valve in the lift cylinder line & shut it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had a guess it was the right cylinder, so I removed upper pin on it, and return oil line. I then put a heavy winch on cylinder to put a load on it. The cylinder does slowly retract, but no oil comes out of front fitting. This tells me it could possibly be the other cylinder, or the valve. Wish I knew more about the valve to throw a part or two at it.
 

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So lift the header right up, remove the return lines, not the bottom ones!
When it seeps down if no oil comes out of either return port it’s the valve!
Seems to me they are just cartridges you can replace. Actually pull the cartridge and check the orings on it.
(Completely lower the header first of course)
If there’s no obvious oring damage it’s probably the cartridge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So lift the header right up, remove the return lines, not the bottom ones!
When it seeps down if no oil comes out of either return port it’s the valve!
Seems to me they are just cartridges you can replace. Actually pull the cartridge and check the orings on it.
(Completely lower the header first of course)
If there’s no obvious oring damage it’s probably the cartridge.

Thank you Joe. Can you elaborate on these cartridges? I know there is maybe two identical electric solenoids (one for raise, one for lower???) but I have swapped these around with one new one and no improvement. Is there something non electrical in the valve body that could be bad?
 

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Yeah the cartridge is the part that is left there when you pull the solenoid off. You can spin that out and replace it, check orings.
Our sprayer last year had a seeping boom and of course assumed it was the cylinder. Put a kit in it and same thing! Pulled the cartridge and a oring had failed.

Its hard to say for certain if it’s the up or lower because I don’t think they are constant pressure supplied just on demand. So no functions active no pressure to the lift cartridge.
So buy 1 and roll the dice and try it in one hole. If that don’t get it don’t go to Vegas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Joe, thanks again. So you are saying, remove one of the electric solenoids and there is something deeper or wider than that solenoid that you are referring to as the cartridge? Do I replace both cartridge and orings? I had no idea. I simply replaced the solenoid as quickly as possible to reduce oil leakage.

Any chance of part number for a C48 machine? I have had no luck with my partsdoc account lately.
 

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Hope the following help. The valve is far more complex then simple single solenoids, with check valves etc. It certainly would not hurt to try replacing Y085 & Y087. You alos could have a cracked valve block allowing oil seapage back into the tank line. O do recommend disconnecting the case drain lines from the cylinders, but have plugs ready to cap the lines, as they are attached to "Tank", and oil may come drain back out the lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you Jeff. Do you see the "cartridge" that Joe speaks of, under the y solenoids? My partsdoc is down.
 

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So you have taken both drains off and let it sit to confirm it’s not just the cylinder right?

I don’t have a 700 at this yard right now to look at but unless they have gone to something else typically you unscrew a plastic nut that will let you pull just the solenoid off. Then there will be a part you can screw out of the block, that’s the cartridge.
I glanced at the photo and that’s how it looks, I’d be surprised ithey are not serviceable.

That’s still where I’d start if the cylinders check out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So you have taken both drains off and let it sit to confirm it’s not just the cylinder right?

I don’t have a 700 at this yard right now to look at but unless they have gone to something else typically you unscrew a plastic nut that will let you pull just the solenoid off. Then there will be a part you can screw out of the block, that’s the cartridge.
I glanced at the photo and that’s how it looks, I’d be surprised ithey are not serviceable.

That’s still where I’d start if the cylinders check out.
Yes, I checked the cylinders my way and then with your method which is better. They appear fine.

I am wondering, guessing, that on my machine, the solenoid and cartridge are one piece units....I am referring to #60 and the opposite one not pictured. I have swapped these two with a new one with no improvement.

Several people have told me to replace #45, 49 and 50. I am going to give that a try next.



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