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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all
New to this forum. We run 2388 in Australia quite happy with it. It has reached the time to replace feeder house chains and sprockets need replacing. How do we get the sprocket set out? Remove feederhouse or just slide shaft out does it clear wheel someone must have done it before.
Thanks wimmera farmer
 

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Re: reeder house sproket removal

Yes, you can slide the shaft out without removing the feeder. I slide it out the right side as usually it is a chore to remove those gibb keys on the pulleys.

If you have a forklift, you can slide the whole pulley and shaft setup out onto the forks and then re-install is made easier.

If you have the rubber wheels on the chain return side, you should be in good shape. If you do not have that setup yet, get it. It will quiet the feeder down and also take the wear off of the chain guide plates on the insides of the feeder.

I install new bearings each time I change the sprockets. Those bearings can be a pain to remove if they have any rust around the tube. But I took a heavy piece of round bar and bent the end a few degrees making it so it just bridged the inner race of the bearing and could tip the bearing enough that a small pry bar could do the rest. Clean the tube out real well but dont grind or file the spot where the bearing seats in as it needs to be a tight fit.

While you are at it, may as well check the thickness of the feeder floor. If it has worn thin, now is a great time to replace it.
 

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Re: reeder house sproket removal

We have done this on a 2144. I'm not sure if everything lines up the same way on an 88 but we took the valve stem out of the right tire and let the combine drop down on the rim. Then put the valve stem back in, jack up the combine and turn the tire so the flat spot is forward. This will let you slide the shaft out past the wheel without taking the pulley off the shaft. As doorknob said the pulley can be a pain to get off.
 

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Re: reeder house sproket removal

we just put sprockets on ours and we removed the drive pulley it is a pain to get the wedges out of but as long as u can get a solid hit on the pulley it will come loose easily we done this by applying pressure to the other end of the shaft. u should be able to get enough clearence by letting the air out of the tire and pushing the shaft out so that the sprockets can be removed but make sure that the allen screws line up on the same side of the hex shaft or the chain will not line up.
 

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Re: reeder house sproket removal

I always found it easier to remove feederhouse, which is very easy to do. It allows a much better view of everything and gives you a better look at the front of the rotor to check elephant ears and cage vanes and bolts at the same time. Also, is you have a rock trap you can check paddle wear bars, etc. Well, well worth the time. I just used a floor hoist, and lower front of feederhouse to bottom of legs, ran a chain through slot in feederhouse and then ran it through hook on hoist boom and rolled it away from combine. Worked like a charm. Just my $.02.
 

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I have found it a lot easier to remove the feeder house to change the sprockets and bearings out than to try and pull it out while on the combine. As north1 says there are other things to check while you have it out and this will allow you to make those checks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the responses.
The feeder is coming off as soon as a couple of neighbours finish harvest. Will then decide what to do about sprockets, spare parts price is a bit steep so first option will be make a new set will have a good look when we get it out.
Question for Doorknob what are these rubber wheels on chain return side you mention I have never seen them where do you get them?
happy new year wimmera farmer
 

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As stsman stated, it is a feederhouse silencer kit, sold at your case dealer. Possibly Shoup and others sell it too?
I think the later 2388s came with it, but the earlier ones did not. Pay attention to the instructions for drilling the holes in the feederhouse sides. The kit that comes from the dealership, is supposed to have a formed sheetmetal jig for locating the holes. It works very well, so be sure to understand it and use it. Before you leave the dealer with the part box, make sure it has that jig in the box. It is just a small piece of sheet metal and can fit in your hand.

Here's a couple crappy pics of mine installed in a 2 chain feeder. I unfortunately had to convert my machine to the dreaded 3 chain mid season this year from an unforeseen.........issue.
Cool thing is, I was able to buy just the 3rd wheel and install it on the same kit that I allready own.





If you are going to remove the feeder, may as well replace the feeder seals at the transition cone. Absolutely no reason not to each time you remove the feeder.
 

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Hey Doorknob
What is that auger coming into the side of the feeder house. I don't beleive that i have seen that before.
Jimmy
 

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That is my ultra high capacity tailing elevator. I return the whole mess to the front. I harvest a lot of small seeds including small seed legumes like red clover. Even in hard threshing wheat I can get a great tank sample without beating the crap out of the crop. Works for me anyway. Its an old project and looks quite crude, but it has not let me down and never plugged for 11 years now.

 
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