[txfarmer]

I was able to get the feederhouse removed from my 9600 yesterday, and thought I would post some pics. (I took the pictures with my cell phone..sorry the quality is just NOT there!

) The cylinder bars are technically still good, but since I am there, I am going to go ahead and change them. It's too much hastle to change the concave (only), then come back later to change the bars...Plus, I want to change the concave & the cyl. bars at the same time, and see what effect this has on [increasing] capacity/efficiency.
Gosh, these feederhouses are sure a lot bigger than the 20 series combines! When I changed the concave on my 6620, I used a cherry picker. Needless to say, the cherry picker would not work [too well] on this ol' boy! I used my skidsteer...pulled it up to the front of the feederhouse, so the feederhouse would not move when we picked up on the back of it:

Ah, that's better! NOW we can get in there a lot easier to work on this thing!

*PS* That is my daugther climbing on the outer dual. She was not there during the disassembly ; just there with me today when we took the pics..we had been out feeding, and she wanted to see Daddy's progress! She LOVES riding in the combine! I can't wait until she's driving it, and I get to snooze in the truck!

 

[bushel]

how many hours do you have one the combine cause you change something?

 

[txfarmer]

Hmm, let's see...If memory serves me correct, I have about 2100 engine hours, and about 2900 seperator hours.

I have been back to my shop since I posted the pics, and it seems like the cylinder bars have about 1/4 - 1/3 of their life left ; but again, I am going to go ahead and change them out while in there. The leading edge (lip) of the concave is wore through in places ; and now that I have it all cleaned out, I can tell the concave is indeed thin, and in need of a change. Absolutely amazing how much material these machines will process, isn't it?

 

[greentech]

Funny you say you can't use a cherry picker. I've removed 8 feeder houses in the last 5 months from 9600/10/50/STS's using my cherry picker. Only other way I do it is to use a tractor or forklift with pallet forks. Being that the weather is around -20 here right now a cherry picker is nice because it allows me to work in the sometimes tight confines of a smaller heated shop.

 

[txfarmer]

I did not say I could not use it, or it would not work.. I said it would not work "too well'....i.e. [it would not work] as well as the skid steer did.

Unlike you, I have not removed 5 feederhouses this month..I have no doubt that you know the tricks to them, where I do not.

Besides, I plan on leaving the feederhouse hooked to the skid steer while I am installing the concave with my cherry picker.

 

[davedan]

Jkane, what do you need leveling gauges for? Ive always used a peice of keystock to set the concave. Also I never knew, or tried to take out the shaft with the tires on since I usually remove them and have them out of my way for seasonal repairs. Is there a trick I missing here.

 

[jkane]

Just remember you do not have to take off a front tire to pull that shaft out , unlike what my extraordinarily ignorant dealership told me, but do go and bum their leveling guages.

 

[txfarmer]

Please, anyone, do tell. I have not ever replaced the concave on this machine, so I am in the dark, here. One side [of] tires have to come off? Any help would be great.

 

[combiness]

Holy cow---$360?!!!

I can remember when I thought the technical manual for the 8820 was pricey. It was about $30 and it took a lot of time for me to save enough to buy one, but I really wanted it real bad. I sure learned a lot about that combine, after studying the manual, too.

I still get a kick out of a local farm wife asking me just how big of a pile 2 grand's worth of science books was, and how she looked so shocked when I told her it was only a short stack by holding out my hands.

 

[bushel]

ther are lots of manuals on the jd website!!!

like this one of a tractor
http://www.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u....orderBy=pubType

its also avialable for combines!!!!

http://www.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u....ff&tr gtMkrt=FR

 

[bushel]

ok you have to take this one and than go to manuals

http://www.deere.com/servlet/ProdCatProduct?tM=FR&pNbr=9660SH

i just can tell about removing corncave on the sts 9860
and you better of to have 2 people to put them back in
its not an easy job

 

[txfarmer]

Yeah, I hear ya! These concaves ARE big! A cherry picker is just about an absolute MUST! I would rather have a cherry picker than the second person, if I had to choose only one.

I have already said it, but I'll say it again: This is my "Maiden Joyage" on the concave. I have never put one in. I have installed many-a-cylinder bars on 6600, 6620, 8820 & 9600...but I have never installed the concave. I have that done for me by JD when my combine goes in for "inspection", or whatever they call it..

I'm sure there are a bunch of tricks to it. Hey GreenTech, how do you true the concave up? Do you use keystock, or do you have JD's little leveling tool? Also, GreenTech (or ANYBODY else), do I have to remove one side of the front tires? If so, which side? My manual's in the mail, but 'till then I want to know!!!!
Thanks!

 

[Tom Turner]

No you do not have to take a tire off. If you replace the cams on the sides they will come out on both sides and take the shaft out after the concave is out, need to look at the cams also. when installing the concave the beater grate is the hards part to get the concave lifted up and bolted together. This concave is different then the 20 series, it is the same on the front and back bars for level, where the 20 was half of the front in back.

 

[cliffcutter]

It's a big job removing the feederhouse from these beasts.I've explained it here before on how we remove the one from our 8820.We mount the cornhead to the feederhouse and block up the rear of the header and then undo all the hardware attaching feederhouse to the combine.Then we just back away from it.The cornhead holds the feederhouse in position for remounting.We use floorjacks under the rear of the header to raise or lower it when reattaching.It's just like the good 'ol days before "quik-tach" heads.

We've never bought the service manual since we are able to go to the dealer and they'll gladly let us look and copy pages for any procedure we want to do.The mechanics also offer advice on how to do things. We spend between $5000-$7500 on parts annually for our machine so they don't mind helping us out with tech advice.

If we were to plunk down $200000+ on a new machine we might buy the big service book since it would seem cheap in comparison.

 

[txfarmer]

That's good info., there Motram. I appreciate the advice.


I hear what your're saying CliffCutter..things aren't cheap anymore, huh? But, by only paying about $100 for a nearly $400 book....I don't think I did so bad..I like a book (for now, anyway) better than a CD...

The book gives me something to read while plowing!

 

[davedan]

Ebay sometimes has CD rom tech manuals for sale. Ive purchased a couple. One for a buddys STS and one for my 9650.

 

[txfarmer]

FYI: I purchased the [3" thick] JD Technical Manual for my 9600, so I ought to be in good shape. Thanks to those that have PM'd me with suggestions and helpful comments! I bought the book before I read GreenTech's suggestion for the CD, but since I do not have a PC down at the shop, it's not a bad deal...JD sells this book for $360 (I called and checked yesterday). I purchased mine for $117. The Tech. Manual that I purchased was printed in '91, and that is good since that is what my machine is. I saw the another Tech. Manual, printed in '96 sell for nearly $300 just the day before I bought mine! Still, a person is saving quite a bit compared to new. The '96 book was still in its' original wrapper..never opened..Anyway, thanks for the help.

One question before it arrives: Does a person have to take one side of the front tire(s) off? I thought I read somewhere where that was necessary..??

 

[hopalong]

Look real close at the cams and cam brackets for wear. Both our 9600's are '91 and have had the cams replaced. It doesn't take much wear for the concave to set unlevel.

 

[greentech]

Put a small bottle jack under the beater grate to keep it in place while installing the concave. Do the update on the concave actuator rear mount while you have everything apart. It'll save the actuator from failing in the future. Do a static balance on the cylinder before reinstalling feederhouse. Check the condition of the tailings front auger and bearing too. This is the best time to work on it - it's right above the cylinder. If it's still a wood block, do the conversion to a roller bearing. This is also a good time to do any work on the upper feeder house. Check the upper shaft bearings and chain wear strippers.

Aw come on, bushel! I've replaced more STS concaves than I can count on my own. Just gotta eat your wheaties in the morning.

 

[galvanizedgreg]

I'm sure you're tired of all the free advice. But while you are this deep in your combine have you given any thought to a ST. John Welding enclosed cylinder? I run an L2 Gleaner and I hope to install one in it before Corn Harvest.
Here's the link if you're interested.

http://www.stjohnwelding.com/St_John_Weldin/Page_9x.html