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Been fighting a power issue on my 93 r52 with the deutz. It will run fine for 2-3 hours and then get doggy (along with an rpm drop). Here's what I've done so far -- I've fought this for a few years. Replaced both rubber lines to the lift pump. Replaced the lift pump -- this helped as I was getting air into my filters -- after replacement I no longer have the air. Cleaned screen in fuel tank, cleaned fuel tank.

Basically I start off running 2700 rpms no load -- going thru the field it'll push 2650-2640, after about an hour to 45 min this drops to 2620-2580 - still works ok but starting to get weak. The longer I run the slower my rpms get and the less response I have from the governor to load. This also corresponds with it wanting to rev more if I remove the load. ex shut off seperator and no load on hydro and the engine will rev to 3000 rpms. Starting to think the pump. Really chasing my tail as everytime I restart its ok -- so I put in new air cleaners -- seemed to work for a few hours, fuel filters, same deal. Any ideas?
 

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Ken Adams
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valve clearance doesn't explain the over reving to 3000, but before I tied into govenor, I would check valve clearances - these Deutz engines like there valves adjusted every 500 hours. You will want to have a set of rocker cover gaskets and seals for hold down bolt as there is always a couple that will need to be replaced.
 

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fighting Deutz power issue

I had the surging when the load was removed and it had a hard time staying above 2500 rpm when under heavy load, it turned out it was the governor was wore out on the pins that hold it. The hole was at least 1/8 inch bigger than it should be so it wasn't working properly. The diesel repair shop said it was close to going up until it would have blown the engine. He said that the Deutz was hard on governor's as were some JD combines. I bought the combine with 1800 engine hours and have run it another 1000 hours and it never had power like it has now that the governor is fixed and the injection pump was gone through. I always had to watch that it didn't drop below 2500 rpm's or the head temp warning would go off. It's costly to repair the injection pump but now seems to be a complete different machine. I think it will solve a whole lot of different problems that i had with it.
 

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How hard would it be to convert this combine to a 5.9 Cummins mechanical and put a radiator up there. I have one with an aftercooler in my pickup that has est. around 400 HP (for a pickup by destroying a few Chevy's and fords)
Would make an even better combine out of it.
 

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How hard would it be to convert this combine to a 5.9 Cummins mechanical and put a radiator up there. I have one with an aftercooler in my pickup that has est. around 400 HP (for a pickup by destroying a few Chevy's and fords)
Would make an even better combine out of it.
After swapping a 12 valve cummins in my gmc jimmy that originally had a caterpillar im with him. Swapping engines isnt as hard as one might think, especially mechanical engines. It really pays dividends in the end with the extra hp/torque, ease of getting parts and reliability. The best thing about 12 valves, you can either be a 180hp engine or a 300hp for little to no money difference between the two different HP levels.
 

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I personally would install a BF8L513 twin turbo Deutz and be running the next day with 300 HP. If u shim the rotary screen to the wall properly it will run about 100 hr between fin cleaning. ( I ran 4 twin turbos a cumulative total of 12,000 + hours during which I replaced one governor and one cooling fan). The twin turbo is a much stronger engine than the naturally aspirated engine.
 

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sorry i took so long to reply. Was away during dec. a lot. Anyway, the twin turbo Deutz sits on a skid so I think it would be a case of aligning the whole assembly in place and then bolting it down and then hook everything up. The twin turbo uses a 4 strand belt vs 3 strand on the R50. We actually lost the outside strand on our R70 and it still ran just fine on the 3 strands for a whole season till we changed it for a new one.
 

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Do you think it would stand too tall? I can't imagine the engine compartment not having enough depth to accommodate it. Can't quite imagine the V8 being that much heavier that axle strength would be questionable.

Likely been asked, but is there any way to reasonably re-power an R50 with a Cummins or like motor?
 

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There's lots of HP to be had out of the little 5.9. Run an electric fan, it solves any alignment issues that you would have with a crank ran fan. Although I could be wrong since I dont know how much air it needs to push to keep it cool on 100 degree days.
 

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Hmm, first of all, all 913C engines should have the high idle at 2700. A drop to 2500 will lower fan air out put and reduce cleaning capacity exponentially .
We service several Deutz powered R40-50 42-52's . We have never had a governor issue , but that doesn't mean they cannot exist. I have a 4000 hour R50.
The trouble shooting means we like to use is simply cut the line from the transfer pump to the fuel pump. If you do not have about 10 psi you either have a restriction, bad pump, OR THE PREPRESSURE VALVE IS STUCK OPEN - that is the bolt that connects the banjo bolt to the return line. We have found debris in the tank, collapsed lines, lines reversed, etc. One can also put a pressure vacuum line in the
Tee on he side wall behind LH drive tire. There should never be a vacuum in the supply line. Adjusting the valves to 6 thous COLD should be done every 500 hours or so but I question them being an issue in this case. We have also found issues of exhaust leaks dropping turbo pressure thus aneroid operation. A leaking aneroid valve line will affect hp on Deutz and Cummins engines as well. As to temp - check the fan blades - when they get paper thin the air pressure goes down. The big square oil cooler MUST be kept clean - it is the radiator on the deutz. IT is as much an oil cooled engine as it is air cooled. All engines are air cooled - either direct or indirect. IF you don't believe it, block or cover up the radiator on your pickup. Finally we are having issues on fuel pump metering valves etc sticking due to the EPA removing all the ingredients that used to prevent it. Running a strong cleaner from commercial products to auto trans fluid a couple times year followed by added lubricant is almost mandatory. Dangmmmed you Al Gore and your minions. (do not run dextron all the time btw) OK and finally finally totally off this issue - do not run car oil in your lawn mower engines or old flat tappet gas engines. Selenium dioxide has been removed as it is not needed on roller tappets as in cars trucks. It was the wear inhibitor for cams/lifters. Diesel oil (rotella) or Briggs, Kohler etc is a must. Sorry for the long ramble...
 
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