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Discussion Starter #1
Buildings up need ideas on how to finish it. Still need to pour floor, insulate and sheet inside. Seriously considering spray foam, has anyone been sorry using spray foam? Any recommendations on companies or products on spray foam?
I am planning on pouring a 6"floor and sloping the floor to the middle. Not planning on doing any washing inside the shop. I don't want to put a u-drain system in but thinking of running a 2 x 4 down the middle and pulling it out after it poured with 2 small sumps draining into a tote or 45 gallon drum with a 2" pump.Planning a 2 inch slope to the middle. Is this idea workable?
 

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I think a 2 inch slope is a bit to much i would say a half inch per 100 foot will be more than enough and i would carry the concrete out under the hydraulic door and a little past it for your washing pad so you can keep a electric pressure washer inside the shop and just run the hose out the door
 

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2" of spray in and then 4" of bat in the walls is about the best there is, IMO.

And for the floor, at least put the piping in the floor for in floor heat even if you think you'll never go that way - Thought we'd never need it when we built our shop but sure wish we would have.
 

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1/8” per foot slope is pretty standard.

I’d run non- perforated drain tile from the drain out 50’+ from building. Either dump out a side hill or the soil will absorb your moisture. Should have a separator but not always how it’s done either.

Edit: have heard guys foam only roof and some walls too. One guy did 1” on walls just seal up cracks, he was satisfied.

Have a colony with foam all over and floor heat. They never turn on the furnace I’m told.
 

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Pour a separate apron for the outside though so it dosnt crack a silly way with the temperature difference. Put lots of plug ins around so you don't need as many extension cords. And depending what you plan on doing in the shop consider sticking some floor anchors in for pulling and bending stuff perhaps.
 

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Very nice! Who built it ?

Spray foam is good, will make it very rigid. Could save some money and do blow in for the ceiling, but get spray foam up into the edges of the ceiling. One problem with spray foam on a building like yours is, if you ever bang up a sheet of metal outside it’s hard to replace. I would get foam board the same thickness as your strapping and install it on the inside and get it tucked in behind posts than spray foam.

United Sprayfoam from Regina would be good I think. Had their roofing division do our house and it was good.

As far as cement and drain, I have this idea, run the pipe from the drain at proper depth outside, drill a decent size pile very deep, fill it with crush rock up to 6 ft depth than dirt. I think if there is only minimal water going in there it would work and be cheap and no pump.
 

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For our drain we just cut off a 45 gallon plastic oil drum in half or so then ran a gravity pipe just under the cement to an old holding tank outside. That way you don't have to worry about a sump trying to pump out the pit with gravel and crap in it. We pump our holding tank out each fall but we don't wash inside so it's only minimal water. Can't remember how much slope we put on our floor, but wish it had been a little more maybe, have a couple spots where the water lays. Don't put your drain right in the middle of the floor either like we did, I would recommend at the front or back, in the middle seems to be in the way a fair bit.

Nice looking shop by the way!
 

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Looks sharp!
Do a good floor drain system, I can't imagine not being able to wash something inside in the winter and your from Canada! Don't fool yourself!

Even if your not doing floor heat I would consider doing insulation under the floor, you wouldn't believe how much heat is lost through the floor.
 

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It is nice to see some roof overhang over the walls. Is the building a pole building and are you going to be sheeting or putting tin inside? If you are going to sheet the inside with plywood or tin you could just fill the wall cavity with cellulose. It would be cheap, easy to do yourself, great r value, and rodent proof.
 

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For our drain we just cut off a 45 gallon plastic oil drum in half or so then ran a gravity pipe just under the cement
I did this as well, seems to work good. I would recommend perforated tin on ceiling for noise suppression. I used 3/4" PEX to supply air to various areas of the shop. Make sure you get a nice smooth finish on the cement as it sure makes it easier to sweep.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We are planning on having a heated floor running PEX every foot on top of 2 inch high density foam and 15 mm rebar at 12 in if I do spray foam it'll be two or three in and probably R-20 bats walls are 2 by 8 construction.

Like the idea of running drainage tile out a side hill but worried that mice or rats me use it as an entry way

Thought about running foam between the strapping on the outside but it would be a bit of a job now that the tin is already done could possibly pull the corners off or a couple of sheets and slide foam between the two by four strapping. Will have to look into this.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Shop is Built with 2 x 8 studs and sitting on 2’ x 10” wide grade beam on fourteen foot piles. Contractor out of Kinistino put up the shop.Happy with his work so far.
 

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I did my pump house with spray foam. Expensive but wow does it keep heat. A buddy was saying if you want to cut cost is to put polystyrene sheets up and spray form joints. My theory is if you went as far as you did, don't cheap out now so go with 100% spray foam. With drainage, put a septic style setup. A solid tank joined to a "grey water" tank to pump out.
 

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Nice looking shop! Iam in the process of putting one up this year as well . One thing I would am doing before I pour the floor is digging in a conduit that runs under the cement floor and 90’s up at the inside wall. That way u can run power or air lines to your opposite side without having to go around the perimeter
 

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If you have 2x8 studs could you just push in strips of fibreglass from the inside between the straps to go between the tin and face of the 2x8. If you have a 2x8 I would put in two layers of fiberglass batts in the cavity staggered. I would have a 2x6 batt outside and stagger 2x4 batts with the overlaps at a different place on the 2 x 6 batts. Put in a 18 inches of cellulose or r 60 in the attic. If you what the sales at lowes or rona you will be able to do the batt and cellulose in attic for a fraction of the cost of spray foam and have great r value as well. The key with batts is to make sure everything is tight and there is no air space on the sides or ends of the batts. For cement I would not go less than a 1/8 inch per foot slope if you want the floor to drain. I would buy a couple sump pits from the septic tank maker in Weyburn call Sirous Valley Industries. The owner who's name I think is Dustin is a great help to talk to you about your drain. If you are worried about a thermal break and do not want to put in vapour barrier you could put in a layer of silver board or ridgid foam on the inside before you put the sheeting. The best place to buy silver board is a lowes on sale. This would be a lot more effective than the spray foam because you would have a thermal break on the wood. Our garage has a 2x8 walls made from staggered 2x4 walls wiith batt insulation, r 60 cellulose in the attic, and 2 inches of silver board styverfoam in the floor. It is easy to heat and has worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nice looking shop! Iam in the process of putting one up this year as well . One thing I would am doing before I pour the floor is digging in a conduit that runs under the cement floor and 90’s up at the inside wall. That way u can run power or air lines to your opposite side without having to go around the perimeter
Good idea, was planning on digging in conduit for a sub panel across the shop from the main panel , might have to make it bigger to accommodate other things.
 

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Don't skimp too much on the floor slope as the cement contractor usually can't get the slope perfect so a bit more will prevent wet spots where you park the 1/2 ton . After the floor has cured I would suggest putting some form of sealant on so it won't absorb oils and it will protect it against salt . I built a new shop and now wished I had done that . I have a u drain in the floor to a 3x3 pit which has a wall in like a septic tank to keep the sediment and oil from getting to the pump and am very happy with the decision to put in but the supply company sold me the large u drain where there is a nice small 4" one now available .. Don't forget to mark where the lines for the floor heat come from so you have an idea which lines go where after the concrete is poured . I have a sump pump going out to an ejector which works great in the winter for the floor drain as I wash off the 1/2 tons in the winter . And yes put the sump away from the middle of the floor which would be easy with u drains .
 

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We redid the north wall of our shop and office with spray foam this winter, (due to one of my neighbors driving into it with his SUV), compared to the vapour barrier and bats that was there since new in 1998 , the spray foam is far superior so far for heating costs.
Most of that wall of the building is concrete block with steel studding with the interior dry walled , we put 4" of spray foam on it.
112' of wall 10' tall with a number of windows in it was $6,100.00.
 

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Lots of good suggestions. Did our shop in 1988, 30 years of good use, best investment on the farm. We built a 2x6 wall offset with second 2x4 wall. This gives a thermal break and R32. Poured a slab, 6", sloped to middle and floor drains to septic holding tank. Even if not washing, lots of snow melts off stuff in winter. Used a half and half boiled linseed oil and paint thinner mix to seal concrete after well cured. Redid the sealing about 5 years later and floor is still perfect, no dust, oil will not stain. At 6" deep on outside of walls we put a 24" wide R 10 Styrofoam horizontally to stop the frost. Make sure there is metal into the ground to prevent rodents and mice. We have a 18" fan at top of wall opposite the door.
 
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