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i know not a true cv joint my question is if just the crosses and middle section (disk female ball sockets) are replaced this still needs either end yokes replaced (contain the balls) to get back to a tight non vibrating shaft. better to buy tractor end complete?
 

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There are a few different variations of construction of those style of joints. What I have found most often, is by the time the CV part of the yokes is wore or loose, the splined yoke that goes on the tractor, especially if the 21 spine for 1000RPM is wore and loose on the tractor. Then you either have to replace the whole dam thing, or get inventive.

I have on several, elimintated the center part of the CV joint, and just made it a regular ujoint style, certainly gain a bit of vibration turning at the headlands, but otherwise has no effect on operation. With the older style that had the push pin type of lock, you could remove the pin, drill out the hole and then split the splined part of the yoke lenghtwise, then install a high grade bolt creating a clamping style yoke, eliminating the issues of wore spines.

The ones with the round release sleeve that use balls to lock the shaft on the tractor...those buggers I haven't figured out an easy fix yet...they just get thrown off to the side into the "project" pile and replaced with something else;)
 

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The last time I went to rebuild a CV u-joint it turned out that it was cheeper to buy a new one instead of rebuilding the old one. I'd maybe ask your parts guys which is the most cost effective, Like Albertabuck mentioned, perhaps other parts of the shaft are worn as well.
 
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