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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Run 7230 with Harvest services feeder chain. 1000sep hrs. Combine just went through dealer inspection and of course the usual; hole in the RH side cone and feeder house gearbox shaft/top sprocket wore out. The top sprocket is a pricey bi*tch at dealer but it does have the build in slip clutch whereas local part supplier can get a non CNH top sprocket with no clutch for 1/3 the price. Question is is it necessary to have the built in slip clutch in the sprocket? There are slip clutches in the gearbox but maybe with the way the earlier flagships ate feederchains the second clutch was necessary? Also on this machine the inspection door that runs across top of feeder house directly above top sprocket is always bent up and out of shape from the crop inside the house. Not sure why as the other identical machine is normal.
 

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How these newer CIH combines got this legendary reputation is beyond me?
From my neighbours that have these things this is all normal.
 

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The older flagships never had this slip clutch; they would just shut down when the other clutch inside the gearbox slipped. I think Case added this because people liked the loud notification of problems I guess. I suppose it also could have had to do with people stripping out the splines on the shaft.

I suspect you could do without the slip clutch and be fine. The computer would still detect slipping and shut down the feeder.
 

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Most people in my area hate that clutch and weld it solid. It for sure slips easier but since we put it in our 8120 we have had a lot less broken feeder chains. Also snapped the shaft that drives the sprocket a few times when we had the old style without the clutch.
 

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You need the slip clutch if you have a rock trap so it doesn't stop quick when the chains stop.
 

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You need the slip clutch if you have a rock trap so it doesn't stop quick when the chains stop.
My 8120 didn't come with a rock trap but I added it later. I still have the solid top sprocket. So far I haven't broken any feeder chains yet, but I can see how it could happen. Until it does though I'll probably stick with my much less expensive solid sprocket.
 

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The clutch in the sprocket is good to have, if you really don't want it you could order a upper sprocket for a 7120 that is close to a third the price however the momentum of the rock beater can break things if the feeder chain stops quickly. The new upper sprocket will also have a grease zerk in it that directly greases the splines of the output of the gear box so less wear on that as well. If you have a dealer do it you may want to have them laser align and shim the feeder gear box to the bearing on the other side so there is no excess wear they should have the tool. As for the product pushing up on the inspection cover this is due to the rock beater not flowing what the chain is bringing in and then back feeding and bunching on top of the chain. There are serrated slats that replace the smooth ones on the rock beater that improve this that the dealer sells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yikes. That looks brutal. I never would have thought I’d want a belt and pulley but now I think I do. Wouldn’t be a $7K fix to change a belt.....
 

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Mike, I would question your slip clutch packs in your mickey mouse box being set too tight they should protect your gear box.
 

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It’s been 8 months, but I seem to remember our 9240 feeder shutting down every time I went through a slew last fall. Thought I saw on a thread somewhere about tightening the slip clutch on the feeder drive gearbox. Talked to the local dealer and they actually recommended it as well. Any ideas how much to tighten it? I haven’t had it apart recently, so I can’t remember the set up exactly.
 

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When you pull the gear box off and take the cover plate off there are eight bolts on the clutch pack with springs on them. The length of the spring should be set to .48 inches +- .008. To test the clutch install the gear box on the machine and place a block in the rock beater so that it will not turn. Then use a dial torque wrench and a 1-5/16 12 point socket and place it on the input shaft going into the box. The clutch should slip between 312-384 ft pounds if it is high you will need to burnish the clutches, I will lay out the procedure if you need it.
 

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I checked with the torque on mine, I was up up to 550 ft pounds on the shaft that is sticking out going to the gearbox at the very front of feeder house. Am I doing it wrong?
 

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So to clarify you slipped the shaft off the feeder gearbox going to the header gearbox and tried there? If so it sounds to me like you tried the proper way. Don’t think it should matter which side of the gearbox you try.
 

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If you farm rocky land at all its well worth the extra money for the clutched top shaft. Since Case combines came out with them I've pulled out many football sized rocks out of the feederhouse with absolutely no damage to the feeder house components. The feeder chain seems to stop much easier, before the gearbox slips and before it can do any damage. Before that it could get expensive plus downtime if you swallowed a rock. I wouldn't consider buying a solid one. Pay now or pay later I guess.
 

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So to clarify you slipped the shaft off the feeder gearbox going to the header gearbox and tried there? If so it sounds to me like you tried the proper way. Don’t think it should matter which side of the gearbox you try.
Yup, thats how i did it. I welded a 1 3/8 1000 PTO splined sleeve from Hub City to a 3/4 socket drive . Blocked the rock beater by sticking 2x4 through the rock trap
 

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What combine is this and have you replaced anything in the gearbox before? I’m not sure when they started putting friction plates in the gearbox but I believe it was sometime in the 8010 production. They switched the clutches from a radial pin clutch to a friction plate clutch and the radial clutches are not serviceable. If your machine is an earlier 8010 then you will have to live with it or take the gearbox apart and update the radial pin clutch to a friction plate clutch. If your sure you have a friction plate clutch I can give you the procedure to burnish the clutches and get it into spec.
 
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