What is the procedure for changing the wing bushing on the back beam of the 5000 air drill. looks like you could fold the wing up and change it in that position. Do the pivot points with the urethane bushing usually need changed out also?
The best way to tell if the bushings are out is to have someone work the hydraulics in the cab and as the drill is set on the ground watch the pivot areas you a concerned about. As the joint becomes unloaded there should be no movement in them, the main beam bushings on the back tend to go out first and they are the most critical in keeping your depth consistent. If there is movement in the consider changing them out, if it is a standard flexi you will get the updated heavier HD joints. First label the outside of the joint if you are able to save it it needs to be installed withe the same side facing out then set the drill on the ground and watch for the joints to unload which may be a different point for each one due to uneven ground and wear. When the joint is loose knock out the roll pin you may have to cut it because it hits the inner frame. Next if your luck is with you you will be able to tap the large pins out using a ten pound sledge and another hammer to hit on so you don't mushroom the pin, this usually does not work. More typically I air hammer the heck out of the joint over the pin to get the rust out then try to get it out the goal is to save the pin if possible I have not had luck with penetrating oils as they seem to keep the rust in I just do it dry. If after some time your not moving it take out the big torch and cut the joint along the pin and try not to nick the pin. We use cranes to support the beam but its not too heavy I'm sure a cherry picker or something similar would hold it once loose. Once the joint is apart hopefully the pin has not wallowed out the hole so when you replace the bushings they fit tight, install new bushings. Install the first pin with new orings and washers but make sure the joint has the correct side facing out the new ones are labeled then hit the roll pin back in. Install the new circlips, washers, and orings. Have someone work the hydraulics until the second pin lines up and slides in with light tapping. It takes a few hours to do all of them but is well worth it if they are out it also pays to have a good friend with good aim. I would pick up joints, pins, and all of the hardware for all the knuckles your doing and get a couple extra bushings you can always return the unused items. Use a good bushing driver to install the bushing so you don't curl the edges because hitting the pin into a bushing that's been curled makes for a bad day. If you do curl one use a die grinder to remove curl or just install another bushing they are cheap enough they are not worth the aggravation. I start at the center section and work toward the wings, good luck.
I changed a few of those a couple years ago. I think I just used my service truck crane to lift one part out of the way to remove and install a new bearing. Maybe a high lift jake would even work? I can't remember if I set the shanks down or lifted them up to take pressure off. I know I did not have it winged up. That would make me nervous. I likely used a hitch cam to watch things and moved things around from the tractor until it looked loose. wasn't as hard of a job as I thought it might be. I think my other bushings were ok. I took a long pry bar and checked for play.