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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just looking for a little help. Needing a bit more power for these green stem beans this year. Can anyone explain step by step on how to turn up the fuel pump on a 2188. Pictures would be great.
 

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OK here goes.........In the engine compartment find the injection pump......It has steel 6 lines coming out the top of it.......There is a square cover (round in the center) with four bolts holding it on. To get these out you will need a torx set with the hole in the center. When you take it of be ready for some oil to run out. You will see a screw with a nut around it. Hold the screw with a flat screwdriver and loosen the nut. Then turn the screw clockwise a half turn. Then tighten the nut, and reassemble. Thats it. Also you should go and adjust the waste gate on the turbo about 6 turns tighter to keep temps down and make more boost. This will give you about 50hp.
 

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Why would more boost keep the temps down? Are you talking about cylinder temperature or water temperature? We always fight over-heating in a 2188 with the pump and wastegate set to factory specs (unless it's cool outside).

I would think more boost would be a leaner mixture, and higher temps.
 

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The more fuel the richer the mixture. More fuel = More power= More heat. More boost= More air to burn the fuel cooling the exhaust temps down. All your doing is letting the turbo build more boost before the wastegate dumps it. They work hand in hand When you add more fuel you need more boost. When the exhaust temps don't heat up real high then it doesn't heat up the water temp.

I had the same problem with our 2188 cutting wheat in summer with 100 degree outside temps it would overheat if you pushed it to hard. However this never was a problem in the fall picking corn or cutting beans when the outside temp was 30-70 degrees. I played with the wastegate before we traded it and it worked it kept it cooler in the summer cutting wheat.

I have done this to our 7240 Magnum too. It has been turned way up. Probably around 300 hp (Factory Rating was 195hp). It has a bigger turbo and the wastegate tightened up. It doesn't even run close to hot anymore and I can pull the ripper in another higher gear. Before it used to run right below the yellow now it runs 3 bars below the yellow on the exhaust temp gage. Hope this helps.....
 

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great reply big A

i did this very mod on my 05 afx 2388 two years ago.... WOW this combine just kicks a** in the power department... it will just not give up, it will produce over 30lbs of boost now when running it max, from a stock boost of around 20lbs.... and too date no problems with heating or anything else running a 36' header

i did turn in my fuel screw one complete turn and i disconected the wastegate hose completly so maximum air to the engine... not sure if it is very safe, but have done this to other turbos as well, with no problems yet....
 

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Big A,

We have a new turbo on the 2188 and it puts out about 24-25 psi if I remember correctly. I ran a line into the cab to a 30 psi guage to measure boost pressure, which I watch all the time.

I can disconnect the wastegate and get about 30 psi, but I don't think it runs any cooler?

On a gas engine, if you feed it more air, it runs leaner and therefore hotter. You run the risk of burning a piston or valve.

On a turbo diesel, more boost means more compression, but I don't know what it does to the mixture? I guess it must not make it lean if the temps go down?
 

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The wastegate is like a pressure regulator. It has a diaphragm that acts against a spring. When the boost pressure gets high enough, it compresses the spring to open the valve and bleed off boost.

I'm not sure how to adjust it, but the only way I can see to do it is by adjusting the linkage. Maybe you adjust the linkage to keep the valve from opening all the way?
 

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To adjust the wastegate. Pop off the little c clip on the rod end. Take off the line going to the wastegate and remove the two bolts holding on yje actuator. Take it to a vise and put the rod in the vise. Loosen the jam nut and turn the other end in.(shortining the rod)

Hint.......If it is real rusty it could break so be prepared. Lube it up good with penetrating oit. Your dealer sould have a actuator if you twist off the rod.

Also 30lb of boost is ok. As long as you don't exceed 40 you are ok. After 40 you could risk blowing a gead gasket.

Adjust it around 5-6 turns. You might be able to go further.

You can also unhook it. It will still work in that if the exhaust pressure gets to high it will blow it open. Just that tighten ing the rod is the proper way to set the spring tension.

Remember adjusting the wastegate will only help if you add more fuel. It won't affect a stock engine hardly at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Big A. Just got back into beans this afternoon and what a difference 50 ponies make. Everything is running smooth and not pulling the motor at all at 4.5 mph. Thanks a bunch
 

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would be neat if you could run a line now from your manifold to the cab to see the maximum boost you are making under full load
 

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It's easy to run the line. Just unhook the ether injector and hook up the smallest copper tubing you can find....maybe 1/8"? with a compression fitting. I bought the smallest stuff I could find at the hardware store.

I went down the left side of the machine, but I don't remember where I went across. I mounted a 30 psi liquid-filled guage right in front of the RH console. Works great to monitor your HP, until the wastegate kicks in.
 

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Screwed waste gate rod 6 rounds turned Injector pump fuel screw 1 round disconnected waste gate line can only get 22psi of boost pressure any ideas, doesn't feel like it did anything for power, checked with injector shop made sure I turned the right screw in, felt inside the turbo on waste gate feels like there is a washer on the gate an it's loss, loaded the [email protected]#$ out of the machine in heavy mud and green rice, any help would be appr
 

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Quote:Screwed waste gate rod 6 rounds turned Injector pump fuel screw 1 round disconnected waste gate line can only get 22psi of boost pressure any ideas, doesn't feel like it did anything for power, checked with injector shop made sure I turned the right screw in, felt inside the turbo on waste gate feels like there is a washer on the gate an it's loss, loaded the [email protected]#$ out of the machine in heavy mud and green rice, any help would be appr

Ok on the wastegate...You did loosen up the jam nut and tighten the rod?....(shorten it)......On the fuel screw....You loosened the nut while you held the screw, then turned the screw it.....(clockwise)..... while holding the nut? Just making sure not doubting your ability....Also you should notice more black smoke at startup if you turned it up.....
 

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Yes to all, not much more smoke than before, this 2188 has the AFX rotor after rpms fall bellow 2350 you better hit the brakes cause she's gonna die, I might pull the pump an have it checked & turbo too don't know of anything else
 

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Quote:Yes to all, not much more smoke than before, this 2188 has the AFX rotor after rpms fall bellow 2350 you better hit the brakes cause she's gonna die, I might pull the pump an have it checked & turbo too don't know of anything else

Is it running ok otherwise?........Think the fuel filters could be clogged up? Usually one turn will give you a big differance...Is the electric lift pump running?......
 

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Talked to injector pump tech told me one turn on that screw moves the fuel rack a lot filters are fine will probably put a pressure guage on the lift pump pressure side know what normal lift pressure should be? otherwise engine runs fine
 

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I dont think the governor is working properly. If you take the pump off and send it somewhere, if its not to someone that has the proper knowledge of a combines need for am extremely sensative governor, it will come back and you'll be chasing other costs around the engine. All book specs that i am aware of give settings for a truck engine. The governor there is set at a happy medium to make it easier of the throttle foot when driving. A combine however has a throttle stop and the governor has to be extrememly quick and tight to keep the rpms at the proper level.

A simple way to see if the governor is part of the problem is to warm it up, check and record the free rev high idle rpm. (which should be set right on book spec) Then engage the seperator and header, then check and record the rpm.It should be within 10-20 rpm of the free rev rpm. If you have any sort of incline on the property or road out front, drive the combine up it. You should litterally feel in the seat, the engines effort to keep the engine at the high idle rpm. If it drops say 200-250 rpm before the rpm loss stops, the governor needs adjustment big time.

IMO. Just my 2 cents. etc., etc.
 

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Good point Doorknob......One other thing set your WOT Rpm at 2500 with the seperator engaged. To do this you have to set it at about 2560 with the seperator off. That should get you close, you can fine tune it from there. Make sure you adjust the Throttle position screw with the engine off. Especially do not do it with the seperator running. I don't want anyone to get hurt. You have to adjust it a little then check it. Remember a little goes along way. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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