[daled2]

Not sure that's a good description but they are an absolute ..... grrrr! What have you done to modify the lower latch so it doesn't take you 15 minutes to attach head on a L3. Generally use my JD head with Bish adapter-easy as pie. Thought I'd use my Gleaner str cut head on wheat this year. Any ideas appreciated.

 

[tjdno1]

The housing that holds the springs fills up with dirt and debris and makes it difficult to push the wedges in to lock. If you have the tool for operating the wedges they arent bad if clean. If the hooks on the head seat into the slot fully it should pop right in.

 

[tbk]

When I had my M2, I hated that stupid curtain rod! After bending it all to heck, I did away with it and used two 5/8" bolts, nuts lock washers and flat washers. Much, much happier afterwards!

 

[hwy19farm]

Use bolts like stated above.That spring loaded lock system cost 2 lives around here and wear your seat belt,they are in there for a reason.

 

[gmguy]

first things first, remove it from the machine (easier said than done) and get all the dirt and crap out. once clean, straighten it, if not straight allready, and re-install.

Ensure the slot is to the bottom so it cant build up with crap. about half the machines we get in have the slot up and it is a PITA. with the slot down, it works as designed, and IMO it works pretty darn good, especially with the factory tool.

 

[silverinaseaofgreen]

After removing the bar, I have ground the welds off the end caps, and replaced the factory bent up tube, with a piece of conduit. Don't remember the exact size but the end caps fit perfect, to weld back on. I think having no slot in it, keeps everything out. Hold the wedge in a vise while you grind welds so things don't go flying. You will have a perfectly straight tube to put back in.

 

[gleanerman]

Slot down and using door latching tool with square recess in end, works great....

 

[fourwheel1]

ive had mine completely removed for 3 seasons now with no problems, i just watch about slamming into ground thru washouts but otherwise is working good without locks

 

[opeeman1]

ive had mine completely removed for 3 seasons now with no problems, i just watch about slamming into ground thru washouts but otherwise is working good without locks

guess you have never had the head come off and get bound by just hanging on one hook. that can be very difficult to deal with, needless to say what damage it can do to the header. I like idea of the rigid conduit

 

[nddan]

What ever you do be sure header hooks are set proper between one that is set for a M or a L. I believe one of the fatalities that HYW19 speaks of was a miss match between the two so it fairly easily jumped off feeder while transporting down road. I never set a header on machine without latching even if just transporting accross yard. You never know if someone else jumps in and heads down road with out thinking to be sure it is ready to go. Also saw where a couple fires could be started when the guys have rested head on ground and head tipped away from feeder enough for driveshaft gaurd to rub hard

 

[buckeyegleaner]

one thing not mentioned and have seen several times. the pipe Must be installed so the wedge is wider front to back or flat. if it is a quarter turned it extends out to far and doesnt stay in when pushed in and down and creates the problem.you cannot unlatch if wrong