Gleaner L3 Cab
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Actually now have cab off (wasn't too bad a job).
Trying to refurb an L2 I have. Have got in way to deep. It will be pretty well new when done, if ever that happens.
On most wrecked L2's or L3s I've seen (Gleaner wrecking yard near me) the curved sheet steel at the top of the housing (just behind feederhouse-and can only see when feederhouse is off) has rust holes. Design flaw in that chaff/dust and moisture over 30+ years sits and eats on the trough that the curve creates. Also, there are 2 tabs that are welded on to support the no cab platform on an L (must be the same front end from L to L3s) that trap stuff and that's the worst spot.
Anyway, I'm going to fix this (weld in new curved sheet as well as fix the other sheet right behind the front one (butts up to bottom of grain tank). Now have to take grain tank off and I'll have complete access from above to fix both sheets.
Do I need to do this. No. I'll be the only one that would know I didn't do a complete refurb. For personal satisfaction reasons I'm going to try and do it right.
For anyone interested in what I have done. Putting in new PFP cylinder and new concave plus a rebuilt N5 engine plus 4wd with JD922 flex head with air reel and Headsight AHHC. Balanced both Beaters and all new bearings, sprockets, chains and belts even the straw walker blocks (checked the cranks for true and cracks). New cab interior, isolators, with Grammar air ride seat. Every wear part is new or refurbed (built up a few crank journals on straw walker cranks).
I guess I'm a believer in the L series to go off the deep end like I have. I truly hope this machine performs so I can work off the cost. We will run 2 of them. I'm told it should-we'll see.
Trying to refurb an L2 I have. Have got in way to deep. It will be pretty well new when done, if ever that happens.
On most wrecked L2's or L3s I've seen (Gleaner wrecking yard near me) the curved sheet steel at the top of the housing (just behind feederhouse-and can only see when feederhouse is off) has rust holes. Design flaw in that chaff/dust and moisture over 30+ years sits and eats on the trough that the curve creates. Also, there are 2 tabs that are welded on to support the no cab platform on an L (must be the same front end from L to L3s) that trap stuff and that's the worst spot.
Anyway, I'm going to fix this (weld in new curved sheet as well as fix the other sheet right behind the front one (butts up to bottom of grain tank). Now have to take grain tank off and I'll have complete access from above to fix both sheets.
Do I need to do this. No. I'll be the only one that would know I didn't do a complete refurb. For personal satisfaction reasons I'm going to try and do it right.
For anyone interested in what I have done. Putting in new PFP cylinder and new concave plus a rebuilt N5 engine plus 4wd with JD922 flex head with air reel and Headsight AHHC. Balanced both Beaters and all new bearings, sprockets, chains and belts even the straw walker blocks (checked the cranks for true and cracks). New cab interior, isolators, with Grammar air ride seat. Every wear part is new or refurbed (built up a few crank journals on straw walker cranks).
I guess I'm a believer in the L series to go off the deep end like I have. I truly hope this machine performs so I can work off the cost. We will run 2 of them. I'm told it should-we'll see.
The other thing I'm going to attempt is to rejig the exhaust manifold-angle turbo down like standard L2 rather than vertical like normal N5 (with some air cleaner piping mods) on the N5 to be the same as the 158hp 426 so as to avoid any tin work changes or butchering.
I hope to be able to basically keep everything alike between a normal L2 and mine with the N5 as well as tucking in a new radiator with an extra row of tubes for increased cooling. I think it all can be done. There a few other mods to make this happen-like double pulley for front end to run hyd pump off front of N5 while still keeping damper on N5 (which the 426 std doesn't have). Again, we'll see.
I hope to be able to basically keep everything alike between a normal L2 and mine with the N5 as well as tucking in a new radiator with an extra row of tubes for increased cooling. I think it all can be done. There a few other mods to make this happen-like double pulley for front end to run hyd pump off front of N5 while still keeping damper on N5 (which the 426 std doesn't have). Again, we'll see.
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Hey Dale! Sent u an email last week, how's things going? Would also like to see how ur project is coming. So bottom left of latest reply in the thread, click the 'post reply' button. New screen will appear. Next for pics, click the little paperclip icon in the top and another window should open. Now simply click the browse button and locate the pic you wish to upload.
Would def like to see some pics of your R7 sometime too, going to try getting to work on mine once my planters are cleaned up and put away!
Would def like to see some pics of your R7 sometime too, going to try getting to work on mine once my planters are cleaned up and put away!
sounds awesome!
the reason I asked was if you were pulling the bin to grind off rivets and change the whole bin bottom, then you can just put the holder bolts in the rear of the cab, behind the front lower mounts. the cab tilts forward a little when doing this ,but is secure. I got to see this when a buddy of dad's was pulling the bin to re-do the floor.
it may be the deep end, but at least you dove off the right diving board.
good luck!
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