Glyphosate and sprayer screens
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Doesnt seem to make any difference, using roundup and quest it will plug up with residue on the screens before i get done especially if it sits a day or two. I read on a forum post about an additive to the tank mix which will stop that from happening. Can't find it now of course. Not sure which forum it was on.
found the link to use Helfire
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=560407&mid=4611196#M4611196
There is another link for using DAWN dish soap in the tank mix to keep the chemicals in suspension. Lessening the amount of stuff on the screens. I am going to try using some and see if it helps.
found the link to use Helfire
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=560407&mid=4611196#M4611196
There is another link for using DAWN dish soap in the tank mix to keep the chemicals in suspension. Lessening the amount of stuff on the screens. I am going to try using some and see if it helps.
I also was getting quite sick of buildup on my screens . I use o run a 50 on main screen by pump then 100 on boom sections then 50 on tips.... I do on ovation spray peas spuds like that would clean and rinse a million times before I dared spray took hours ether cleaning or changing out all those screens.... After reading post on hear I pitched all thee screens except main one by pump switched it Ito a 100 I can honestly say I could not be happier . Was pretty nervous but only had one pluged tip just had to bump up my rate real quick spit it out ... I run v.r.i. I think that is what they,are called ...
what are you tank mixing and what is the ph of your water? if just straight product the white precipitate sounds a little odd. could be 2 different things:
1 are you already using a water conditioner and is it going into the water well before the chemical? I once saw a producer mix his conditioner and weathermax together in a handler - dropped the pH so low (we thought must have been around 3!!!!!) in the small amount of solution it precipitated all of the glyphosatic salts out! is there some place where these 2 products are meeting in pure form not in solution?
or
2. is the water high in either pH or dissolved solids (bicarbonates)? might be that the some are already reacting with the glyphosate to form new salts and then precipitate out of solution to end up on your screens
1 are you already using a water conditioner and is it going into the water well before the chemical? I once saw a producer mix his conditioner and weathermax together in a handler - dropped the pH so low (we thought must have been around 3!!!!!) in the small amount of solution it precipitated all of the glyphosatic salts out! is there some place where these 2 products are meeting in pure form not in solution?
or
2. is the water high in either pH or dissolved solids (bicarbonates)? might be that the some are already reacting with the glyphosate to form new salts and then precipitate out of solution to end up on your screens
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I was confused, I run 100 main 120 secondary mesh screens, never a problem but I have always used helfire + compadre. I tried a fair bit of sur-tec I got from Redline and it is awesome, seem to have a better cleaner fields where I used it with spartan vs grounded. Also had way less drift.
Might be something to look into
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Where I started to really notice this issue and it actually become a problem was when I switched the well I was pulling my sprayer water from. Originally, was using a well for the livestock, deep drilled one but had stopped because it also produces very very fine black sand which was giving grief. So then I switched the a bored shallow well with high levels of calcium and some iron in it, and then that white sticky sludge started accumulating on the screens. I attribute it too the calcium reacting with the glysophate myself, as all that changed was the water source.
This is using straight glysophate in the tank, either generic or genuine Roundup, no mixes and I run 100 mesh screens on both the system and nozzles. Doesn't seem to plug up the nozzle screens really, but after a few tank fulls (800 gal) will plug up to the point of beginning to restrict the mains in the system up front. Not the easiest to clean either, so I have several extra, just change them out as needed and clean later.
Either gonna start hauling in water as I have a municipal source close by, else set up a filtering system and go back to the drilled well and take out the fine sand before it goes in the tank.
I'll add that once I left some glysophate mixture in the tank for about a week or so, stainless tank, and oh boy what a mess, I ended up with that sludge on the walls of the tank as well. This is why I think it must be something in the water IMO.
This is using straight glysophate in the tank, either generic or genuine Roundup, no mixes and I run 100 mesh screens on both the system and nozzles. Doesn't seem to plug up the nozzle screens really, but after a few tank fulls (800 gal) will plug up to the point of beginning to restrict the mains in the system up front. Not the easiest to clean either, so I have several extra, just change them out as needed and clean later.
Either gonna start hauling in water as I have a municipal source close by, else set up a filtering system and go back to the drilled well and take out the fine sand before it goes in the tank.
I'll add that once I left some glysophate mixture in the tank for about a week or so, stainless tank, and oh boy what a mess, I ended up with that sludge on the walls of the tank as well. This is why I think it must be something in the water IMO.
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I agree with AB and his experience with well water. It has more "solids" dissolved in it and therefore more chances for a reaction to precipitate out some kind of a flake or scum to give you trouble in your sprayer. I have had way less trouble with this precipitate issue from using dugout water. It may not look like it is the cleanest but it has less TDS. Maybe even better than using city water ( chlorinated and treated river water which is also quite hard). I use the dugout water until the algae and bugs get too bad later in the summer. In the old days we used to throw the suction hose into an old slough or ditch and with just a screen to keep the chunks out, we had minimal problems with plugged nozzles
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I do have a bit of calcium in my water, so that could possibly be my problem!
Found this article on AMS and it has a formula for how much to add if you know the make-up of your water.
http://weeds.nmsu.edu/pdfs/AMS_use.pdf
Briefly talked to local supplier and he is recommending "Fix" instead of AMS - anyone like to comment on Fix.
Found this article on AMS and it has a formula for how much to add if you know the make-up of your water.
http://weeds.nmsu.edu/pdfs/AMS_use.pdf
Briefly talked to local supplier and he is recommending "Fix" instead of AMS - anyone like to comment on Fix.
the big difference with "pHix" over AMS is its a lot more concentrated usually only need a 10 L jug for each tank. But from what I can gather its basically sulphuric acid! its better at adjusting pH down for the glyphosate, as far as deactivating the calcium compounds I don't know its any better or worse than AMS. its out there with several different brand names on it but pHix is what I have used in the past. seems like it does something to help penetrate hairy / dusty weeds like foxtail barley too.
some things to watch though - that's the stuff that I said will precipitate glyphosate salts out of pure glyphos - make sure it goes into the water and gets diluted bf the glyphos goes in!!!!!!!!! other thing is to be very careful what else goes in the tank. officially they say nothing else, but I have never had issues with EC's like 2,4D (not saying someone else w different water wouldn't though.....). DO NOT add suspensions or flowables though - express and pre pass don't dissolve right in the lower pH water and will make an ever worse sludge than you started with!!!!!!!
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