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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know how to solve leaks in canola on an 8230 right above the feeder house?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I do have some on the front axle, and then I have a little bit on top of the feeder house, I believe it's coming from the rotor cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have you ever changed the seal on the front of the shaker pan on the 8230, I was thinking about changing it before the season, but I decided to push one more season
 

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I thought about changing the seal once, but it looks like quite a job and I wasn't sure how to reach the nuts on the underside. I don't think I'm losing any canola off the front of the pan, so I haven't bothered.
 

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I thought about changing the seal once, but it looks like quite a job and I wasn't sure how to reach the nuts on the underside. I don't think I'm losing any canola off the front of the pan, so I haven't bothered.
That seal is a prick of a thing to change! You need arms like an orangutan ….. plus an extendable neck ….. or eyes on the ends of each finger! All three would help!
The mat that protects the seal is something that should be made much easier to replace.

Getting back to the leaking canola. If it’s on top of the feeder house - on the LHS - that option comes standard from Case!
The sealing compound that’s used where the rotor mounting bar goes against those side rotor feed hunks of steel …… needs to be made out of “unwearable” …… & they need to put a s.itload of it in there! Also the seal on top of the feeder house - where it pivots - cops a pounding because of the flow of material from the initial swing of the rotor.
The half moon cover is another area where canola can come out.
I‘ve concluded that if any machine - doesn’t matter what colour - doesn’t hold water …… then it won’t stop canola leaking out.
 

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It’s more than likely canola is coming from the white panels or doors on the side. They don’t have a seal on them like the 50s series. I have no canola on the axle with the 50 series. The others I did.
 

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Its actually not that hard to change the grain pan seals. You can remove the whole assembly and do it outside of the combine. There's 2 bolts above the transmission that hold it in place. I removed the shoe leveling actuator so I could move the shoe from side to side. It wiggled out fairly easy. I also closed the concaves all the way. That little bit of extra room helped a lot. There are 5 or 6 seals total
 

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It is from a leak between the cross member that holds the rotor and the cradle in the cast piece where it mounts. The cross member flexes when a slug goes through the rotor and breaks the silicone seal. The gap is typically larger on the right side and that is where the pressure is from the crop entering the cone and rotation of the rotor so that is where it leaks. The only way to fix it is to remove the cross member, clean both surfaces well, use urethane windshield primer on the bare metal, then place a tall bead of windshield urethane (I use dinitrol 9000) on the cast piece and install the cross member. I have had very good luck with this on many combines for years.
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Its actually not that hard to change the grain pan seals. You can remove the whole assembly and do it outside of the combine. There's 2 bolts above the transmission that hold it in place. I removed the shoe leveling actuator so I could move the shoe from side to side. It wiggled out fairly easy. I also closed the concaves all the way. That little bit of extra room helped a lot. There are 5 or 6 seals total
I wonder if this would be the same procedure for a New Holland combine? I guess I will have to take a closer look. Were you able to change them out by yourself or are two people needed?
 

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You can do it by yourself. It comes out underneath the concave. I just used a big pry bar to wiggle it out and take it front rotor cover. I don't think it would be possible to change them inside the combine. There's 1 row of bolts you can't even see
 
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