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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We just started to try replace our broken countershaft. There is a clutch on the drivers side of the countershaft just outside the pulley for the wide 7 band main drive belt. Can anyone tell me how to get this clutch off? There is a ring of allen head cap bolts and 3 larger bolts with spring washers which we removed on the outside of the clutch. There are some threaded holes on the outside of the clutch that I was wondering if you put a threaded rod in to push the clutch off. Is this how you remove the clutch? Does anyone know how much torque the spring washers on the outside of the clutch are torqued to? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks SouthernSK
 

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My memory's pretty rusty on it but seemed to me after all the Allen head bolts it just pops off, clutch disk under there and the inner shaft engaging spline. Then there is a shaft key you need remove before you can carry on. I didn't see that with the shaft turned down and had a pile of torque on it before I realized something wasn't right.

I just air arc'd the bearings, pulling them was fruitless and I have a monster puller.

I'd change both the main drive belt an the variable speed belt as one likely has a bad spot on it and was making for some serious vibration to bust that shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Joesixpack as far as the belts I was going to change the variable speed belt and the drive belt for the rotors both of which run off the side of the countershaft that broke. When you mention the main drive belt are you talking about the wide 7 v belt off the engine that drives the countershaft?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It looks like the pulley driving the long rotor drive belt on the right side of the machine was loose and moving on the taper rings. At harvest I saw the pulley move up and down slightly at the start of harvest. I backed off the belt and the pulley did not seem sloppy. In retrospect I should have taken off the variable speed pulley to check it better. The movement on the taper ring is what I am thinking caused my countershaft to break. The only thing that holds the two inner pulley on each side of the countershaft is 4 tapper rings help tight by a bolt. If you see one of these pulleys having some up and down movement it would be wise to take the time to check to see if the tapper rings are seated right and holding the pulleys firm.
 

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Yeah that sure wouldn't have helped anything, it's surprising that that long belt could stay in track as they do have a tendency to want to come off.

I did mean that 7 groove belt, but the likelyhood of that belt being a issue is way lower now you found that loose pulley and that long belt on the right side wasn't flopping off.
 

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Southern, did you get the shaft replaced then? Did you come across any other difficulties other than the ones you mentioned in this thread? I am about to start on mine today, and the dealer here hasn't ever messed with one. They printed off instructions for removing and installing it from their service manual, so I hope it makes enough sense! The main question I have is whether I need to make/buy the "special" tools that are listed in the instructions. I know it has been mentioned in relation to the countershaft that the bearings can/should just be cut out instead of trying to pull them. Thank you for any tips you have!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Shiny to get the taper rings off you need get a pipe slightly bigger than the tapper ring and hit it with a sledge hammer. I made a pipe press to push the tapper rings in with. The pipe was not quite small enough for the tapper ring so I welded a tapper ring in the end and on the other end I welded a thick plate with a hole in the center big enough to put a 16 mm threaded rod through. The old bearings for the counter shaft have to be cut out on the one side to pull the shaft out. You will have to heat the bearings in boiling water to get them on the shaft. If you need any help over the phone just send me a pm with your phone number.
 
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