[tkfarms]

Hey guys... I am going to redo the seals on my loader cylinders and I am used to the style where you just unscrew the end caps off. Mine dont have them and are enclosed... there is a ring clip inside but its kinda hard to get to without a special tool? What do the two set screws hold in?

 

[bmich]

Usually I have seen cylinders with the snap ring on the outside. I would remove the 2 set screws ( they probably hold the end cap from sliding into the barrel ). Next carefully drive the end cap into the barrel a couple inches. This should expose a round snap ring on the inside of the barrel. Dig out the snap ring. Next pull shaft and end cap out of the barrel. Good luck.

 

[5stateag]

It looks like the style that you must drive the cap in past a small grove in the barrel. In the repair kit there should be a plastic tool you put into the grove and that allows the snap ring to slide past. It will be this or like the last post. Either way remove set screws and drive in the end cap. You should be able to tell.

 

[tkfarms]

Ok there isnt anything in the seal kit like that. but I will try pounding it inside more.

 

[tkfarms]

Thanks a bunch guys... I got them apart and re did all the seals... the ones on the end cap were ratched but the others looked ok.. The reason for me resealing them was because the bucket would not stay up and go down slowly or when I have a bale on I have to keep curling it almost every 5 seconds or else the bale would fall off. So I re did them both.. but it still seeps down ? I unhooked the hoses from the tractor and it still drops down so that elimanated a leak in the tractor. The only other thing is this loader has a valve bank mounted on the front of the loader for the bucket cylinders... I guess I will have to get a new one. Anyways thanks guys for the tips.

 

[LRShooter]

Those valves will wear out. Cant rebuild it either. Everything is cast then machined to extreme tolerances. Ours seeps and its annoying, but i deal with it for now. Usually the edges of the valve grooves get worn off and thats the cause.

 

[tkfarms]

Those valves will wear out. Cant rebuild it either. Everything is cast then machined to extreme tolerances. Ours seeps and its annoying, but i deal with it for now. Usually the edges of the valve grooves get worn off and thats the cause.

What is the valve for? Im thinking it has something to do with the self leveling deal.

 

[LRShooter]

What is the valve for? Im thinking it has something to do with the self leveling deal.

Well, I couldnt tell you. I dont know what loader you have. On JD loaders, the self-leveling mechanism is mechanical and rather simple if you look at it. I dont know why any loader attachment manufacturer would make one as complex as valves and such. Maybe my definition of a valve is differing from yours in this case. Our loader has a valve mounted to it with the levers going to the valve. When you push or pull a lever, it allows oil to slip by the grooves in the casing and the valve rod which ultimately controls all functions in the loader. In neutral position, the groves and lands will all be matching perfectly which doesnt allow any oil to escape. This is a link that will give you more detailed explanation on the valve I am talking about. Hydraulic Valve Types: Spool-Type Hydraulic Directional Valves - Hydraulic Systems - HydraulicFacts

 

[tkfarms]

I have a L300 loader... the valve I am talking about is mounted right near the bucket cylinders on the side of the loader..The hoses come from the joystick bank on the side of the tractor and then screw into the valve... then the hoses for the cylinder come out for it and to the cylinders.. I looked in the parts list and the non self leveling loader hasnt got one... Funny to cause my loader is mechanicial leveling. Cost me 260 to order a new one... Cant be anything else.

 

[tkfarms]

CHanged the valve today... 260 bucks later and I have no seeping issues anymore.. and cylinders with new seals!!