GO down a couple threads and look at "2388 power problems" This guy Bussard seems to have a good idea and sounds like he really knows what he is talking about. I have 3, 2388 and plan on doing that to one and see how I get along. Other than that just make sure you have clean filters and every thing set properly.
Could be something so simple as a governor setting. The governor on the combines needs to be set really tight. The engine has to try to hold full throttle rpm exactly. In a truck, the governor needs to be set fairly loose so the pedal is not so touchy.
After having my pump rebuilt, it came back with truck settings even though they were told it was for a combine. Obviously, few people today know what a combine is. No dealer including the one I had do the work would touch the thing to fix it. I had to find out here online how adjust it and do so myself. It is a whole new machine with a simple governor adjustment. Of course my machine is an old 1680 with the navistar engine so my adjustments wont do any good here, but with the governor set loose, it would pull down allmost 200 rpm before the governor would start to hold the engine from falling further. Now it holds at full throttle setting.
Dont know if that is your issue or not, but the governor is an overlooked part of the system.
EDIT: got the power problem thread confused with this one, oops.
While this really isn't a performance idea, this year I put on the single point hydraulic coupler and the header latch kit on two 2300 series machines, if you find yourself having to take heads off several times a day to move from field to field, those 2 mods will make your life alot simpler!
Do you have a hopper extention for the combine? That is a great productivity enhancer IMO. Reduces unload frequency.
I have not tryed the Bison rotor, but the gleaner guys sure seem to like'm. If I could get one to try, I'd take the time to swap it out and give the dealer the time they want to research its performance in my area and crops.......? It looks like a great, versitile rotor.
I know you have the afx, but give Ron Kile a call. http://www.kilemfg.com/ He now has a kit for the afx that is supposed to increase the throughput and reduce the stalling at the concave transition. See if he can provide you with more info on it and maybe it will be of interest to you.
Soon Ron will be working on a rotor vane setup for the afx. He is combining wheat right now, so you may get his wife or shop guys, but he will return calls as soon as possible. Dont know if these are of interest to you, but they sure worked well for me this year in my crops and climate. I ran crimson clover, tall fescue and winter wheat with them so far. I also now have a short set of forward rasp bars that are the same size and style as the reverse rasps. I hope to run a few acres of soybeans I have and some corn this fall. Next year I will remove my gorden bars and run all Kile bars. 12 reverse and the rest forwards. http://combineforums.proboards.com/index....ay&thread=14193
EDIT: I run the specialty rotor, but the new bars will fit the afx and have the afx ramp angle.
Can i say this thread and its offshoot are fascinating
coming from a european (and Irish) perspective we wouldnt recondition machines. I dont know why, everyone has their reasons but rebuilding to be as cost effective as buying new or nearly new?
farmers here would prefer to trade in. but do most lads in the US do all the work themselves thus keeping costs down or let the dealer do it? maybe US farmers are more mechanically minded in this matter.
for a young farmer here in Ireland the only way you could start to farm independently is buy older s/h machines. but they come with their own health warnings if you dont know them and dont have experience
will 8010s and 9010s be rebuilt in the same way in years to come?
We have 2 bison rotors and really like them. We use them in wheat, dry edible beans (the main reason we got them) and will use them in corn this year. In wheat they do a fine job but they really shine in tough conditions that we can see when thrashing dry beans. They are very gentle on the beans so they don't crack many and they can really handle the slugs and wet stuff. The key is the small tube that the rub bars are mounted on. It allows the green stuff to work it's way through without rumbling. A neighbor was running a specialty in his beans and said it was rumbling his combine a lot. He came over and rode with me and now has a Bison. I hope they do well in corn too!