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Was wondering if anyone has seen or knows of another company that sells a product that will pull a bushing in? We are doing bushings and pins on our air drill and been using grade 8 bolts and grade 8 all thread. Been going through a few bolts cause the threads get sharp and gull. Attached is a picture of snap on thing I’m looking for but shipping is a week or a few weeks away. Tried air hammer but defaces the Teflon bushings. Tried leaving the bushings out in the cold and the drill is in the heated shop
 

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All kinds of different pullers available, not sure what else would work in your situation. Some different pullers can be rigged to be used to push as well. Have a look here, be cheaper options, but IMO you want a puller to be a quality tool.

https://www.otctools.com/products?f[0]=field_product_variation%3Afield_categories:7&f[1]=field_product_variation%3Afield_categories:90

If you want to rig your own and already have a source of hydraulic power, those hollow cylinders that are used in pullers are available thru many different suppliers. If you want cheap Chinese either Princess or that Uncle Wiener outfit would most likely have one.

Also, would a brake pin/ball joint press work for you? I use mine for all kinds of different stuff. Slick as pie for small automotive and ag Ujoints and more too.

https://www.otctools.com/products/ball-joint-service-kit
 

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If you are doing the same bushing repeatedly, then the bore through ram shouldn't be necessary, since the required stroke will always be the same, no need for the full length threads. Buy a 2" bore by 4 " stroke (or similar, whatever you have room for, enough stroke for the length of bushing and will fit through the bushing)off the shelf cylinder at Princess Auto, ideally with a threaded end, and use it as is with a nut on the end. Or cut the end off of a welded end cylinder and weld the grade 8 threaded rod to it.

If the gland is Aluminum, might want to install a big washer against it so it doesn't dent from the pull.

Could also try to find threaded rod with ACME threads, lots of lube, and thrust bearing behind the nut, would last much longer than standard threads. Or have machine shop make an ACME nut and bolt.
 

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Not that its the question you asked but have you tried either copper coat along with a little gear oil or instead going with a high percentage moly grease on the threads of the bolt type you have been using. I'd be curious how much longer a thread would last with either of those lubricants as it certainly helps with not galling fine thread bolts/ubolt type assemblies. I realize it turns a job into a messy job but wearing some neoprene gloves and a roll of paper towel helps as it certainly gets on everything. Keep applying a little more lube often to keep the threads slick.

As AB mentioned the various units if they will work, most will have the better shaped and quality threads and once again lube them often as I think that is the number one killer of pullers is dry threads.
 
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