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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HELP!!!!!!!!!
Hydraulic oil light keeps coming on and it is not the wiring. AIR cooled Deutz Engine. Engine compartment is super hot, can hardly touch the handle to open the door it is so hot in there. Changed both the Engine and hydraulic oils and ALL filters. Levels are good (not over filled) and rads are blown out every day! Running Shell Rotella T30 engine oil and Shell Donax TD (hydraulic & transmission) oil. NEVER had this problem last year, not sure where to begin. Extremely frustrating having to stop every 20 minutes lo let it cool down.
 

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We have had this problem with a L-3 and it turned out to be the main valve in the hydraulic control stack is not opening due either to a faulty solenoid or a broken wire. This causes the hydraulic system to operate agains the relief valve which causes HEAT big time... Main valve should only be closed when you call for a function such as raising the header, etc. then it should open. hope this helps...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oil cooler is clean, blow it out everyday, and the fan appears to be in good shape, combine only has 1700 hours on it.
Gleanerman.......how do I check to see if the main valve is working properly?
Unfortunately the closest dealer is 6 hours away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Another question for Gleanerman or anyone!!!!!
Did some more investigating today on the main valve in the hydraulic control stack. Pulled the main power (black wire) off the main valve and still have full response from the hydraulic system, header lifts etc.. When there is no power should this not Close the solenoid and therefore no hydraulic pressure to header lift etc????
Another observation the main hydraulic line into the control stack is under Exterme high pressure, the return line has very little pressure. Is this normal?
And....with the key on, if you hit the header lift (or any other function) you can hear the main solenoid "click" on and off. If it "clicks" does that mean it works or could it still be stuck shut?

Anyone have any ideas?????? ANYONE??????
 

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TBran or NDDan are the real experts here so maybe a mail to either or both of them as I have seen TBran solve some very sticky problems with Gleaner hydraulics over the years on the other forum.
Both those guys are the best value around when it comes to Gleaners, TBran in maintenance problems and Dan in hotrodding Gleaners.

Pure guess work following on my part!

1 / If possible try swapping solenoids just to check if the main valve solenoid is not on the way out and is only allowing a partial and incomplete operation of the main valve.
Those solenoids will do some strange things as they age and break down.

2 / Main valve has frozen in a partly open position over the lay off period allowing some oil to be diverted to the other functions when they are activated but is just closed enough to force the main flow through the relief valve with a consequent big oil overheating problem.

3 / Ditto above but with an obstruction stuck in the valve preventing full operation but allowing some movement of the valve, hence the click, such as a disintegrating O ring or some such other object.

More!

4 / Check voltages at the solenoid when it is activated as a serious resistance in the electrics could lead to improper operation of the solenoid and the main valve
 

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I had similar problem on my n6. It turned out to be the header heigh control was shorting out and working the valve it was hooked to. I think we took off the outside side compartment by the consle and diconnected it. Thanks to nddan for this solution.
 

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there are two hyd systems on R60's - early pumps have a ressure flow comp and the low pressure could be causing the pump to stroke - measure the standby pressure. Could be compensator problem or leak in system -3 gmp max on case drain on pump. Also the stand by is about 800 at idle and 1200 at high idle. Over about 1500 and the oil will heat - late series has a dual pump - two inlets and two outlets - PS and main system separate 450 PSI on PS and less than that on main when no fucntions are being used.. As stated if the auto header module is shorted it will partially energize the master valve - check for low current say 6-8 V on the master valve solenoid - should be none. Sorry for the less than systimatic approach.
 

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I had the same problem on my R-62, Its the either the cooling fan or the hydraulic cooler is plugged up, I thought my cooler was clean because I always blew it out, but after a hour or so with a steam cleaner and all the shields off the engine, I finally got all the stuff out of the hydraulic cooler and now I have no problems, It may also help to change your engine oil, this always seemed to make mine run cooler because it made the fan run faster with better oil. You shouldnt have a problem when it starts to cool down outside. Air diesels were never very great trying to cool themselves with 105 degree air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the fantastic info! Without all the responses, I'm sure I would have kept combining and burnt out the pump!
Cause of the problem....plugged orifice on the main solenoid. Took apart the main solenoid and noticed the orifice was plugged (of course bought a new then noticed you should be able to see through it)
I then took the poppet apart (remove plug on the front of the main solenoid) and noticed a hole in the small wire screen. Obviously that is what blocked the orifice. Once AGAIN, thanks for all the feedback!
 
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