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Discussion Starter #1
I have an older jd basket rake. Tires are no good so didnt want to by new grippy ones. So used old truck tires. The rake now skids on light swaths. Ground driven. Was going to make it hydrolic drive. So have old drill fill i dont use. Cant find a model number on pump. Anyone think to can drive the rake. Thank you
 

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Yep it don't take much to spin the reel on one of those, something I'd often thought of doing to one of mine but never did as I ended up with a 3pt pto one as well which I use for the really rank stuff. But I have seen several over the years with a motor bred on to them either on gear box input or direct to the reel shaft.
When you put your truck tires on, did you go to larger tires? Reason why I ask is that is something lots of guys do and then run into traction trouble. Reason larger tires don't work, is you don't spin the reel fast enough for the distance traveled. I have my dad's old 851 Deere and it does about as good as job as my much newer 258 Rollabar NH. Interesting thing, is that old Deere has smooth implement tires on it, but just little 5.90-15, which are about the same size as the lugged tires on the NH.
 

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Drill fill motor turns fairy slow so it could work. We tried doing the same thing a few years ago with a random hyd motor and it didn't work.....when we turned the flow down so it ran the correct speed then it would stop as soon as there was any swath against it. There wasn't enough power in the motor at lower oil flows if that makes sense.
 

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What about tire chains? I'll put tire chains on nearly everything that needs traction in any direction. Including a wheel V rake... To keep it from skidding sideways, since we pull it from one side straddling the swath, and often set it up to turn two swaths the same direction. Lots of old small tire chains from light trucks and passenger cars around from back in the day, at auction sales etc.

Otherwise, hook the motor up, measure RPM at full flow and see how it compares to the rakes needs as a good start.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. The tires i put on were same size as the grippy ones. I could try smaller. Got back in field so project on hold. Just need to decide what size sprockets i should use. Any ideas. If motor under powered should i go with a bigger spocket abd run motor as fast as i can? Always confuses me on gearing.
 

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Fill the tire up with water and given your location antifreeze. It will give the tire some weight that it needs to grip and then turn. Just don't fill it up to much and make the rake pull to the side. Those tire aren't to big though so you should be ok. Or just hang a tractor weight or scrap iron on the drive side and that should work as well.
 

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Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. The tires i put on were same size as the grippy ones. I could try smaller. Got back in field so project on hold. Just need to decide what size sprockets i should use. Any ideas. If motor under powered should i go with a bigger spocket abd run motor as fast as i can? Always confuses me on gearing.
Smaller sprocket on motor or bigger on driven and run motor as fast as you can. There are specs for the flow on your tractor and don't forget that the specs are at a rated rpm and you will probably be running at 2/3 throttle for raking so you only have 2/3 of rated hydraulic flow. Say 15 gpm at full speed so 2/3 speed is 10 gpm available. The formula for horsepower shows that flow is part of making power. HP = psi x gpm divided by 1714 so on an older tractor maybe psi is 1800 psi x 10 gpm divided by 1714 = 10.5 HP. If you decreased the flow to 5 gpm because the rake is running too fast you only have half the horsepower. 1800 psi x 5 gpm divided by 1714 = 5.25 hp. If that is the case you need a motor that can run at 10 gpm and be the right speed ( larger cubic inch per revolution motor) OR put a smaller sprocket on the motor to let it run faster, allowing more gpm to be used. Lots of ways to make it work better.
 
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