I need tips on shoe auger's on 50 and 60 sts
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Re: I need help on shoe auger's on 50 and 60 sts
To take the augers out you will need to take the final drives shaft off, maybe the brake drums and transmission shafts to have room to get to them and then it is like all the older ones to get the sprockets, lock collars, bearings front and back and augers. Very small area to work in. Have heard some take the transmission out to make more room.
To take the augers out you will need to take the final drives shaft off, maybe the brake drums and transmission shafts to have room to get to them and then it is like all the older ones to get the sprockets, lock collars, bearings front and back and augers. Very small area to work in. Have heard some take the transmission out to make more room.
Re: I need help on shoe auger's on 50 and 60 sts
well i ended up taking the bolts out of the flanges, then take the roll pins out, i had to replace two shoe augers originally, but when i went to take the supports off in the back, the alluminum one. The one on the left side, the dam bearing frezzed up on me so i ended up cutting the alluminum support off the shaft, then accidently got into a third shoe auger shaft so had to replace three of them. that deffantly sucked. but im 5'11' and about 150 and i ended up climbing up between the drive shaft and the cross member, and next to the tranny, on both sides of the tranny. Its not too bad on the right side if looking at the front of the combine, but the left side is tight as heck. If i was any fatter i would be screwed. I ended up getting pissed and cut them off in the front. i needed another guy to hand me the torch when i got under there, the augers on the sides deffantly suck tho, especially putting in roll pins. and the reason why i origanlly needed to replace them was the roll pin wallorded out the shaft. The roll pin in it was was just a roll put if your order them now there called spring pins.
well i ended up taking the bolts out of the flanges, then take the roll pins out, i had to replace two shoe augers originally, but when i went to take the supports off in the back, the alluminum one. The one on the left side, the dam bearing frezzed up on me so i ended up cutting the alluminum support off the shaft, then accidently got into a third shoe auger shaft so had to replace three of them. that deffantly sucked. but im 5'11' and about 150 and i ended up climbing up between the drive shaft and the cross member, and next to the tranny, on both sides of the tranny. Its not too bad on the right side if looking at the front of the combine, but the left side is tight as heck. If i was any fatter i would be screwed. I ended up getting pissed and cut them off in the front. i needed another guy to hand me the torch when i got under there, the augers on the sides deffantly suck tho, especially putting in roll pins. and the reason why i origanlly needed to replace them was the roll pin wallorded out the shaft. The roll pin in it was was just a roll put if your order them now there called spring pins.
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Re: I need help on shoe auger's on 50 and 60 sts
Yes, lots of "fun". I have done dozends of these bearings and augers. Taking the LH drive shaft and brake drum off makes a huge difference. When I have to replace the whole auger, because the rolled pin hole is wollered out, I take the bearings bolts and spacer off the front, slide the auger back and cut the front off from the inside of the combine. Then the shaft piece with bearing, lock collar and sprocket just falls on the ground.
The newer single but double rolled roll pin seems to do better.
Just before the bullet rotor came out JD changed the aluminum bracket on the rear to steel bar with bearings bolted to it. I never found a bearing go out in the aluminum bracket. Now I find rear bearings go out on low houred machines. I wonder why.
Yes, lots of "fun". I have done dozends of these bearings and augers. Taking the LH drive shaft and brake drum off makes a huge difference. When I have to replace the whole auger, because the rolled pin hole is wollered out, I take the bearings bolts and spacer off the front, slide the auger back and cut the front off from the inside of the combine. Then the shaft piece with bearing, lock collar and sprocket just falls on the ground.
The newer single but double rolled roll pin seems to do better.
Just before the bullet rotor came out JD changed the aluminum bracket on the rear to steel bar with bearings bolted to it. I never found a bearing go out in the aluminum bracket. Now I find rear bearings go out on low houred machines. I wonder why.
Re: I need help on shoe auger's on 50 and 60 sts
well i ended up replacing the two alluminum brackets in the back. they slid right on, not to bad. But unfortantly the shipping broke one, so had to order a new one. I bet taking the drive shaft out and the brake is a real difference. it was one heck of a tight squeeze for me. i almost need to crisco to but on me to get up there but i made it.
well i ended up replacing the two alluminum brackets in the back. they slid right on, not to bad. But unfortantly the shipping broke one, so had to order a new one. I bet taking the drive shaft out and the brake is a real difference. it was one heck of a tight squeeze for me. i almost need to crisco to but on me to get up there but i made it.
I put quickmetal or green loctite on the gears when installing them on the shafts. If you loctite the gears on the auger shaft and drive shaft they don't tear up the roll pins or keys near as bad. I've had combines with less than 300 hrs on them, start getting loose gears on the drive shaft.
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