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Discussion Starter #1
Just another one of those consequences/costs of dealing with stuff that too tough. Have a layer .25" thick all around inside of unloading tube caused by peas - shiny hard, almost welded to inside of tube. The peas unloaded fine, but once you switched to next crop(oats in this case - only 18ish moisture) that layer of crap chokes off unloading tube auger enough such that you snap shear pins unless you unload at idle and if you unlucky enough to get unloading tube full and stop unload you can not even start it up at idle without breaking shear pins and have to unload via grain vac at bottom end of unloading auger - real fun. Obviously this slows down an already slow harvest.

Using this nice Fall break in weather to try and get cleaned out. Will start with steamer/snake arrangement today, but problem is there only 2 4" round access holes(one at combine end of unloading tube and other about 8' out from that so have big chunk of auger at unloading tip where not sure can get enough steam, water, pounding with rubber mallet. Would get real messy to get enough water at bottom of hopper such that could auger water full bore thru auger and hard to even plug end of discharge tube to get full of enough water either.

Could choke down the grain flow from hopper into discharge auger if cannot get clean, but sort of like fast unloading.

Of course taking the unload tube off not a small job either. Here would good idea for manufacturer - have bit bigger access points along unloading tube, but am sure I am the only person to ever have this issue.

I have handled some what I would say even nastier stuff in the past(hemp) that would plug the grain elevator tube with similar type of crap, but never have had unloading tube coat to this extent and break shear pins - Note NH was nice enough to put "spare" shear pins right behind where they break so somebody must be breaking them.
 

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DO NOT unload a CX at idle, the unloading auger clutch pack is hydraulic basket clutch and requires atleast 1400 ideally full rpm to give enough pressure. Do not try and cheat the shear pins either. This is why the engine revs up when you engage the thresher clutch.

New clutch pack is 6000$.

Hard to come by this year but dry wheat shines it up best.

Check the vertical auger part of the unloading system usually the bottleneck is in there and not the main long tube.
 

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Doesn't seem much to pop a sheer bolt on a NH. Never had any issues till we changed colors. Have a 8090 and 9080 and both the same. Really have to choke the slides in the hopper. Tough grain and Kochia mix are dynamite. When we were combine shopping seen some used 8090's in mid Alberta a couple of years ago the Hutts and modified the unloaer by welding on a third sheave and running a 3 rib belt. I often wondered what they were using for shear bolts. Had trouble with the rethrashers plugging because of the build up with peas a couple years ago.
 

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Off topic but we normally leave the rethresher doors off when doing peas. Never seems to be actual peas in the rethresher, just wet plant material that just plugs up the discharge chute.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
DO NOT unload a CX at idle, the unloading auger clutch pack is hydraulic basket clutch and requires atleast 1400 ideally full rpm to give enough pressure. Do not try and cheat the shear pins either. This is why the engine revs up when you engage the thresher clutch.

New clutch pack is 6000$.

Hard to come by this year but dry wheat shines it up best.

Check the vertical auger part of the unloading system usually the bottleneck is in there and not the main long tube.
Quite often I will unload at an idle with CX with steering wheel jammed down on seat as use the time to do other things and maybe fortunately have never had an issue with clutch pack. If I waited long enough for dry wheat to put through this thing it may be cheaper to buy a load from an elevator.

Symptom that you headed for a problem with unloading tube is if you ever unloading and auger almost violently starts to vibrate - think it good idea to shut stuff down as it could really wreck something. Had this happen when was almost done peas. Cleaned some of crap out, got it to run right, but never could get much of crap to come out. However one hr with steamer(both access holes and from end of unloading tube) and a lot of hammering with rubber mallet seemed to loosen enough of crap up that when turned unload on was actually able to make it repeat the vibration - although not as violently - and pretty good pile of crap came out. I think the elbow of unloading tube(first access hole) and funny enough around the 2nd access hole at point where there an auger join are the worst places so guess the engineers were thinking of that.

It is these sorts of things that prove again one of the laws of nature - it cheaper/easier to be a male than a female. In the past when I have tried to put something in a dirty tube just have to make quick trip to pharmacist to get it cleaned up. However, when you try and stuff something dirty, wet into your unload tube you really need to pay for that trip to gynecologist,
 

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Using this nice Fall break in weather to try and get cleaned out. Will start with steamer/snake arrangement today, but problem is there only 2 4" round access holes(one at combine end of unloading tube and other about 8' out from that so have big chunk of auger at unloading tip where not sure can get enough steam, water, pounding with rubber mallet. Would get real messy to get enough water at bottom of hopper such that could auger water full bore thru auger and hard to even plug end of discharge tube to get full of enough water either.
Steamer, hmm.

Put auger completely out, make as high as possible perhaps driving left tire on blocks.
Run garden hose in end of auger. Go to bar for two or three hours.
Then face combine uphill and left side low, open auger off support just enough so it will run, at full throttle auger water/slime mix out. Couple of wheelbarrows of crap.
It won’t clean it completely but enough subsequent “dry” crop should slowly clean it and it shouldn’t bind up.

If access to a water truck run a load through.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Steamer, hmm.

Put auger completely out, make as high as possible perhaps driving left tire on blocks.
Run garden hose in end of auger. Go to bar for two or three hours.
Then face combine uphill and left side low, open auger off support just enough so it will run, at full throttle auger water/slime mix out. Couple of wheelbarrows of crap.
It won’t clean it completely but enough subsequent “dry” crop should slowly clean it and it shouldn’t bind up.

If access to a water truck run a load through.
Even though hopper was cleaned out did not want bunch of oatmeal left in hopper so actually did opposite and had rhs on high side and ran steam through from both ends, but tried to keep it in unload tube - running out end of unload tube vs into hopper. As long as this was fix and think it was only ended up with big shovel full of crap out the auger, but would imagine that even the tough crop I run through next wk will be fine. It only took 1.5 hr so had lots of time to hit the bar afterwards.

One of issue with NH combines is if you have ever had the misfortune to have cover to rear beater/engine(from inside hopper) off or even the other cover in bottom of hopper off(in bottom of hopper) do not think they hold enough water that could flush auger out anyways. This stuff was actually so hard I was even thinking of ways to plug off auger so that could get enough hot water into whole tube and than let it sit, but steam seemed to work fine.
 
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