[brewmax]

bearings in mine went out today. i wasnt on it so i dunno how bad the carnage is. any tips or tricks that i should know before i start the chore

 

[Tom Turner]

Nov 18, 2008, 8:22pm, deerefixer wrote:Have done three of these this fall, to make it easier I put a 3/4 socket in between by the web and the grease zerks to hold the sheaves apart. It aids in slipping the belt on or off. Then open top sheaves. You probably know this if you have changed a belt already. A cherry picker (engine hoist) aids in taking out he sheave. It weighs about 200lbs.

This is right deerefixer, also i have taken many apart out in the field, you can take it apart on the combine, the outer pulley # 1 has a big spring on the inside with the inter pulley #5 and that pulley will have to use a puller to get it off, it has a tapper fit and a key, then all the rest will come off. Last is unbolting the inside beating and taking the shaft, cylinder drive pulley and bearing off.
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.d....PageServlet_Alt
Also check the cams #11A and 11B, there are bushings and seals that need to be replaced.

 

[brewmax]

we took it of this morning. done as stated above and had one socket weged in webbing to hold the pulley apart. all was well untill the pulley was bumped and the socket was knocked loose/out of the webbing. it was jammed cross ways inside the webbing.-----no big deal we thought! we are cutting quite a ways from the shop so we took it over to roll-a-cone mfg. to get them to cut the old race off of the inner part of the shaft (that was the bearing out) and to get them to put it in a press so we could get the socket out and put it and possibly two more in the webbing to hold it apart for the installation. well, this is when all heck broke loose-----litteraly! when it was being pushed apart buy the press the taper fit gave way and the whole thing flys apart! i cannt stress enough ---BE CAUTIOUS WHEN MESSING WITH THIS DAMNED THING!! not knowing exactly what we were fooling with d**n near got someone hurt seriously. ended up taking it to the dealer to get them to cram it all back together.

 

[brewmax]

ps. tom i dont know what im doing wrong, but everytime you post a link to deere parts such as above it always brings up what i myself have looked at most recently on there and never what you are refering to. have any clue whats going on with this??? thanks for your help as well as deerefixer.

 

[Tom Turner]

Sorry i did not post early, glad nobody got hurt, this has a big spring between the pulleys as you know.

 

[Tom Turner]

It could be that i have lodged in on JD web and that log will not go to what i have posted, Thanks for telling me.
Will this go.
http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.d....PageServlet_Alt

Have seen were the picture and parts are show-en without the web Link, some body tell me how to do that.

 

[brewmax]

nope, tom still shows me the weight bracket on a 8200. i was looking at that earlier-----are you playing mind reader???

 

[Tom Turner]

no

 

[jd9600guru]

There should be no need to cut any bearings off on the intermediate sheave the bearings on each end are a slip fit, not a press fit.

I prefer using a small chunk of 2x4 to keep sheaves spread if need be, the safest route is to just pull the outer pulley off the top sheave so you don't have to jack with the spring loaded setup at all.

Looking at the JDparts page here are the key #'s you need to do a rebuild:

2, 7, 9, 15 - on the pic. of the sheave guts, sec. 121 p. 34

bearing 5 (qty 2) in sec. 121 p. 32

jd

 

[brewmax]

trust me there was a reason to need to cut the race off. it had been ran quite a while after the bearing had been "out" it had siezed to the shaft.

 

[jd9600guru]

holy crap did your help not feel or hear the thing making hellatious racket?

jd

 

[davedan]

Ive changed many of these in the field and never removed the entire assembly. I usually take the 4-band cylinder belt off, leave the primary v belt on take the bolts out of the pillow blocks on both sides of the intermediate drive and swing it down a bit using the primary belt as a sling, give it a twist, change the back bearing, spin it around change the outer and then swing it back up in place, another trick is to apply pressure to the upper vari speed pulley to tighten the sheaves and it will tension the belt up enough to so when you swing it into position to saddle the pillow blocks you dont have to do any lifting. You might have to get the grease line free of its clamps that goes to the back inside bearing before swinging it around.