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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am new to JD and picked this drill up for $20 grand less than what is on dealer lots. It's a 52' with stealth paired row openers and steel packers. The cart is a 1900 but I was told it had 1910 meter boxes.

What I like;

I love the greenstar display. Calibrating was a bit of work but once I had it figured it seeded very accurately and was user friendly.

I really like the tool . It moves a lot of dirt compared to my old drill but it powered through all the hard spots and I found folding and unfolding a breeze. It's tall to tow down the road but it also roads really nice. One rocky field when the shanks were tripping out a lot the hoses started to fall out of the manifolds but a screw seemed to stop the worst offenders.

What I don't like ;

The cart, specifically the 8" auger. I have hopper augers on the trailer so I only like to make one stop since I hook the augers to the drill for hydraulics. I found if I fill the middle and back tank first with fertilizer, then move the auger to the front tank I can pull ahead with the truck a bit and still make the hopper. It's a terrible designed auger as well as the placement of the tank lids. To make matters worse someone put an air seeder hopper on it and now it can't be swung back under the cart to unload. The meter shut off levers are sticky and if you try and dump grain hits the air tubes and bounces everywhere.
I like the fact you can easily pull out the meter cartridges but if you cant get the cut offs closed its a mute point.

The slides that choose between top and bottom shoot can only be moved with a hammer on the fertilizer tanks.

The air seeder hopper is cracked and needs replacing. My question is would it be worth going back to a stock hopper ( at great cost ) or were they junk too ? I can put a replacement air seeder hopper on for about $350 but then I can't unload the tanks with the auger.

I'd like to hear from JD owners on their thoughts and advice based on experience.
 

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The meter shut off levers are sticky and if you try and dump grain hits the air tubes and bounces everywhere.
I like the fact you can easily pull out the meter cartridges but if you cant get the cut offs closed its a mute point.

The slides that choose between top and bottom shoot can only be moved with a hammer on the fertilizer tanks.

x2
 

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Coogan how much do they want for stock hopper? I have a nearly new stock hopper off an 8" auger from one of my 1910 carts that I took off to put on an air seeder hopper sitting in my shed. Cart was a demo with 350 ac on it when I bought it. I'll give you a deal. Pm me if you are interested. I am a couple hours north of Calgary. I prefer factory hopper over air seeder hopper but I use my tandems more than semi.

Yes deere carts have some issues. I'm on my 3rd one thinking it'll be my last. Getting tired of these corrosion issues not being addressed. Someone needs to come up with stainless replacements. The carts need to be really cleaned out good at end of seeding but that still doesn't help the meter shutoff issues. The top and bottom slides are a better setup than the old drop box that first came out on my 1900 cart. I'm still wondering how the new section control will work after a couple seasons seeing deeres track record with the meter shutoffs and top/bottom slides.
 

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The meter shut off levers are sticky and if you try and dump grain hits the air tubes and bounces everywhere.
I like the fact you can easily pull out the meter cartridges but if you cant get the cut offs closed its a mute point.

The slides that choose between top and bottom shoot can only be moved with a hammer on the fertilizer tanks.

x3
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Coogan how much do they want for stock hopper? I have a nearly new stock hopper off an 8" auger from one of my 1910 carts that I took off to put on an air seeder hopper sitting in my shed. Cart was a demo with 350 ac on it when I bought it. I'll give you a deal. Pm me if you are interested. I am a couple hours north of Calgary. .
I am interested in your hopper. It will be Tuesday before I can call the dealer to see what a new one costs. I'm not sure what they cut off the auger to install the air seeder hopper though? If you have a price in mind pm me, otherwise I will be in touch after I see what new costs.
 

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The meter shut off levers are sticky and if you try and dump grain hits the air tubes and bounces everywhere.
I like the fact you can easily pull out the meter cartridges but if you cant get the cut offs closed its a mute point.

The slides that choose between top and bottom shoot can only be moved with a hammer on the fertilizer tanks.

x2
Lmao. That slide is a pain in the rear. Deere here specifically told me when I bought my drill to cycle that slide every day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lmao. That slide is a pain in the rear. Deere here specifically told me when I bought my drill to cycle that slide every day.
But there's no point in taking it apart and cleaning right ? The only time I need the slide set to bottom shoot is for rate checks on the fertilizer tanks . I have a feeling that they would be sticky again in no time.

I'm into this drill cheap enough that I might as well keep it for a few years , as long as I can make the auger more livable. One thing I hate about the air seeder hopper is that they have a u joint in there with a way under supported steady bearing that vibrates badly if you spin the auger very fast . I had to turn the hydraulics down to slow the auger down, but then it was very slow to load. A new u joint and steady bearing did not help.
 

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Years ago when we had a new 1900 cart with the 8" auger we added two feet to the top of the auger and put a sliding spout, similar to what they use now, on it. Always put the arm in the middle hole and filled all three tanks without moving with our hopper augers. Have since went to the conveyors but wish I could lengthen them also.
My oldest 1910 is an 07 model and I can still use the meter shut offs with one hand but it takes great pains in keeping them clean to keep them working like that. I also cycle the top shot/ bottom shoot slides every time I fill, only takes seconds and saves beating on my machine with a hammer. For unloading tanks I just use my Brandt field conveyor, makes it painless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yep just a little care & attention and they slide and open fine. OE is the main cause of the issues described!
Unfortunately it was like this when I bought it. I don't want to take it apart, the long thin bolts that hold it together look so rusty that they will just snap off I'm sure. It works and seeded accurately so I figure why open a bigger can of worms
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So just updating the changes I've been doing to this drill. I always hated the look of the diamond tread combine tires so I did a little research and got some rims off a 2188 combine from a wrecker , painted them and had a set 30.5 L - 32 tires installed. It just looks so much more current now. I had to order a new drive sprocket for the different size tire.
Ibar was nice enough to sell me his spare stock hopper and this auger makes a lot more sense now that the air seeder hopper is gone. Its way lighter and doesn't break my back lifting it on the cradle now.

Does anyone know if you can get decals for the tanks? These painted on ones are worn off.
 

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JD5675 Label 55 BU TANK
JD5677 Label 70 BU TANK
JD5674 Label 75 BU TANK
JD5679 Label 80 BU TANK
JD5676 Label 120 BU TANK
JD5678 Label 150 BU TANK
JD5680 Label 200 BU TANK

Here ya go. Does the hopper on the auger have a bearing or bushing at the bottom?
 

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So just updating the changes I've been doing to this drill. I always hated the look of the diamond tread combine tires so I did a little research and got some rims off a 2188 combine from a wrecker , painted them and had a set 30.5 L - 32 tires installed. It just looks so much more current now. I had to order a new drive sprocket for the different size tire.
Ibar was nice enough to sell me his spare stock hopper and this auger makes a lot more sense now that the air seeder hopper is gone. Its way lighter and doesn't break my back lifting it on the cradle now.

Does anyone know if you can get decals for the tanks? These painted on ones are worn off.
The new ones have decals. Mine are bubbled and my son managed to peal half of one off with the pressure washer. Was gonna see if warranty would cover the ones that are bubbled. Prob a lot less hassle to go buy. I'm sure they're cheap:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
JD5675 Label 55 BU TANK
JD5677 Label 70 BU TANK
JD5674 Label 75 BU TANK
JD5679 Label 80 BU TANK
JD5676 Label 120 BU TANK
JD5678 Label 150 BU TANK
JD5680 Label 200 BU TANK

Here ya go. Does the hopper on the auger have a bearing or bushing at the bottom?
Thanks , those decals sound like John Deere pricing. I found a guy on eBay than makes vinyl JD decals so I'm getting a quote from him to make the 6 decals I need, maybe I can get something a little custom while I'm at it , but at least I can always order the JD ones if I have too. The hopper has a bearing, the plate it mounts on for a bushing is different and it would have cost near $200 so I ended just installing a new bearing
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Before seeding I went to change the flexible hose on the end of the auger , and after removing the two hose clamps I discovered the whole end of the auger was rotten. You'd be surprised just how hard it is to find that exact size and wall thickness of pipe but finally found some at a used pipe wholesaler. My welding wont win any awards but it was better than bending over at JD for a new auger tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I had a guy in New York that was on Ebay make me some vinyl decals for probably half what the OEM Deere ones would cost , plus they are custom. I think it takes 10 years off the tank. Before and after pictures.
 

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