[willen]

Anyone have experience changing coulter bearings/hub on the 1895 JD drills? The spindle and gauge wheal arm are seized but I can't get them pressed out. I heated the casting up good but all I could do was free the hub up so it would turn. Does the spindle thread into the gauge wheel shaft? Is that why it won't move? Parts diagram shows a snap ring but I think that just keeps bearing in the hub. Thanks

 

[Haystack]

I'm just going by memory here but I have changed a JD disc bearing 2 or 3 times. You need to get the gauge wheel shaft and arm out. It is a smooth shaft inside the hollow bore of the opener. Get some kind of a long heavy tool onto the arm that the gauge wheel is bolted to and get it rotating a bit before you try to press or punch it out of the bore.

The arm has a dust cover welded to it that covers the end of the bearing assembly for the disc. When you get the arm out of the way you will see the shallow nut that holds the disc hub assembly onto the opener casting. I would get a complete hub assembly then get the parts to overhaul the old one if its serviceable. You can change one in the field if you have a hub ready to install. Getting that gauge wheel shaft out is always the question mark on an older drill.
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[willen]

Thanks Haystack. That's what I thought. Just wanted to be sure there wasn't a snap ring or something in there I'd missed. Just got talking to a dealer that works on them and he said the same thing.
btw, I think this is the drill you used to run. Can't wait to get it back in the field.

 

[Haystack]

Thanks Haystack. I think this is the drill you used to run. Can't wait to get it back in the field.

Cool. A prospective buyer told me there is a crack in the mainframe on the bottom side of that drill that we didn't know about?

If you ever decide to part with it in the future, I may be interested in putting it in my own quonset.
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[Haystack]

You may also be interested in page two of this thread if you experience a recurrence of this problem.

http://www.thecombineforum.com/foru...r-fan-will-not-run-flexicoil-3850-cart-2.html
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[willen]

I hope that's the crack i saw that'd been repaired. I'll have to do another crawl under.
I got the hub off. You have to press the gauge wheel shaft out of the hub first.
I was trying to push the whole assembly out of the arm. Glad I didn't get the press into high gear.
Hey, often did you have to change those bearings? Have to buy the hub/bearing complete now.

 

[Haystack]

I hope that's the crack i saw that'd been repaired.
Hey, often did you have to change those bearings? Have to buy the hub/bearing complete now.

We never ever used a welder on it. Almost all of those bearings have 100,000 acres on them, so not very often I guess is the answer. Take your time fixing it up. It looks like the score down here is going to be Swamp 1 - Haystack nothin, again.

 

[Haystack]

On a lot of this air drill repair, an air hammer seems to be the ticket to get things pushed out but I haven actually tried to do it on a gauge wheel shaft.

 

[willen]

That'd be worth a try. I was going to make a press with a couple bolts and some bar.
That's a lot of acres on a set of bearings. Makes me feel better spending $220 on a hub.
We were getting around 10,000 on our 1850. Usually running fairly high pressure but that has more effect on gauge wheal bearings.Thanks for the heads up on the hose.

 

[Blue Oval Man]

To press those shafts out you need to take a piece of 5/8" all thread, weld a big nut on one end, slide on a flat washer and a piece of pipe with an inside diameter that the bushing will slide into. Slide this through the bushing then install a piece of pipe the length of the bushing and a slightly smaller diameter, slip on another flat washer and another nut. Use an impact to tighten the nut and press the bushing out, clean the bushing and the cavity, as well as the grease zerk and reassemble. Will probably have to build a new tool every fifteen to twenty openers but works well.