The Combine Forum banner

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
931 Posts
We have a 4020 PS also hours unknown as the clocks didn't last long but hrs don't matter as you can rebuild and run. We also have a 3020 that we have gone through in the last 2 winters done the engine with new rad and last winter was clutch ring gear and fixed oil leaks. Very handy tractors and will be a sad day when the quit for good.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,847 Posts
NH if he is only asking 4 grand with the loader, make him an offer and just buy the dam thing, you aint going to get a much better deal than that, even if it needs some work. Do it before someone tells him its worth more. They sell for parts around here for that kind of money when they have decent rubber;) As others have said, you can't go wrong with one of those. While mine is late model, one of the last of them, I would never think twice about repairing it no matter what failed. They are one of the most versatile, dependable and classic tractors ever produced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,210 Posts
95% of people, present company included, will laud the 4020 for all the reasons stated so far.

Where are you 5% who will bring up how retarded "the ever changing ballast of the fuel tank being in front" or "you'll fill the radiator with fuel because it is the second cap back" or some other horsepucky. Connor, where you been lately, bud? Go for it dude, great deal on a great tractor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,116 Posts
LOL... I pulled up to the gas tank once instead of the diesel tank, but I stopped myself before I put any in. Never once in 40 years have I put fuel in the rad. Changing ballast? Every tractor I have ever owned had the tank in front and I've never noticed the difference. With a loader on, I doubt NH will either. Only negative I can think of is the replacement cost of the 23.1 rear tires, but rubber is expensive no matter what you buy. Get her home and put it to work, like Albertabuck says... we can't get scrappers up here for that price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,210 Posts
LOL... . Never once in 40 years have I put fuel in the rad. Changing ballast? Every tractor I have ever owned had the tank in front and I've never noticed the difference. .
I know, right?! What tard can't feel the difference between a radiator cap coming off vs a fuel cap. And I'd never noticed (or thought of in my wildest dreams about "changing ballast" until I read it on here a few years back.:rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Sounds like the deal of the year. The problem with the 3 point lever is the cable is dried out from non use. Hard to get them working right again. A new one from Deere is about 175.00 and not a tough fix. Buy it!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,116 Posts
I don't have 3 point, but I've "fixed" the power shift cable by working Fluid Film and light oil down it. Happened 3 yrs ago after it got a hot steam cleaning, and it's still working.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,847 Posts
NH I suspect you're busy, but I do hope you at least gave the guy a deposit or something to tie this thing up...from what you described, this is a deal you don't want to miss out on:eek:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,847 Posts
I know, right?! What tard can't feel the difference between a radiator cap coming off vs a fuel cap. And I'd never noticed (or thought of in my wildest dreams about "changing ballast" until I read it on here a few years back.:rolleyes:
Actually Tbone, I used to notice the difference with fuel level with the 6030, that was before I mounted 600 pounds plus weight on the front end. Was fairly easy to lift the front end off the ground even with the front tires full of fluid, and no question it was much easier to do as the fuel level dropped;)

Even with the extra weights it will still do it, though at that point she's close to powering out:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,210 Posts
I can see it buck, I've just never noticed it. I hang 750# on the front of a 70 horse tractor, that only holds maybe 35 gallons. . .So I've never noticed or thought about it!

I stand by my radiator cap comment! lol

Maybe I should just shut my yap while I'm ahead.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,847 Posts
No worries Tbone...it is an issue that has never effected any of my other Deeres and that includes the 4850 MFWD. The 6030 runs a short wheelbase, and with mine being a rowcrop model it has the 38 inch duals and with 20.8s she lays a large footprint and can get a good bite when things are right, and there in lies the problem of lifting the front end. Most of the weight is over the back wheels. And that is only with drawbar load, as I have no 3pt, nor would I ever use it if I did. She holds over 60 imperial gallons, so there is a bit weight there, enough that it can be noticeable when most of it is gone;)

I run 14L-16.1 fronts full of fluid and 600 pounds of Deere wheel weights plus the bracket I built that holds them hanging off the nose. Then there is a jackall or two, good 1/2 inch chain and can't forget my trusty loader tooth prybar...and she can still lift to the point you steer with the brakes:D

I realize you guys running your 3PT equipment need to hold down the nose for slightly different reasons;)

But as I said, with any other ones, the fuel level never effects handling or anything, so I agree with you for the most part on that...and for the radiator issue...well when it comes to stupidity, God Himself is helpless:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
NH I suspect you're busy, but I do hope you at least gave the guy a deposit or something to tie this thing up...from what you described, this is a deal you don't want to miss out on:eek:
Yes, I have the deal made. He wants everything gone, so he threw in an MC Rotary Scythe as well. It is in good shape, but I have no idea as to its effectiveness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
I believe the MC is somewhat like a new idea cut-conditioner. Many years ago we had a 9 ft. cut-conditioner. I used it on an old 4020 D, and a ford 7000. As I remember, I would not have been too happy with less HP. A friend had a hay, field day in the late 70s or 80s and noted that the new idea cut hay strip took some what longer to make regrowth. We had ours about 20 years. It 'never' plugged. The input shaft finally broke at the gearbox. Then got a Krone 9 ft. disc mower.
Congratulations. 'Without the loader', the 4020 was a great buy. The loader and mower just make it better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Now that you have bought the unit, the tractor and presume loader with it, what brand and model of loader is this or is that hard to determine ?
It is a Westendorf loader. It has not been used much, but has sat outside for a couple years. The cylinders are in good shape though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
I believe the MC is somewhat like a new idea cut-conditioner. Many years ago we had a 9 ft. cut-conditioner. I used it on an old 4020 D, and a ford 7000. As I remember, I would not have been too happy with less HP. A friend had a hay, field day in the late 70s or 80s and noted that the new idea cut hay strip took some what longer to make regrowth. We had ours about 20 years. It 'never' plugged. The input shaft finally broke at the gearbox. Then got a Krone 9 ft. disc mower.
Congratulations. 'Without the loader', the 4020 was a great buy. The loader and mower just make it better.
I have heard that the MC is best in thick-stemmed forage.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,847 Posts
Awesome, good for you, glad you got yourself what hopefully is not a bad tractor at a really good price;)

Saw one of those MC flail mowers sell at a sale a few years ago, gear box had been blown up and it still brought several hundred. I remember seeing the advertisements back in the day for them, but pretty sure I don't have a brochure or anything. I've only ever seen them used as a heavy duty grass mower and on small trees. Pretty sure thats why the ones I have seen have always had issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,116 Posts
If those loader cylinders have been sitting outside they'll be full of condensation which will turn your trans-hydraulic oil to snot. Before you use them pull the hoses off and move the cylinders up and down to clean them out. If it's murky flush them out with diesel and let them dry before you put them on. Same goes for any cylinder that's been sitting around for a period of years and not getting used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,116 Posts
If the tractor has been sitting around a lot, carefully loosen the drain plugs (oil pan and tranny) and check for water or antifreeze under the oil. If you find any, change the oil and filters before you run it.
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Top