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Bought a johny 4960 yesterday. Around 8500hrs and in good used condition. Didnt pay alot of money for it, what is there to look out for on these tractors? Any help appreciated. Cheers :)
 

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Bought a johny 4960 yesterday. Around 8500hrs and in good used condition. Didnt pay alot of money for it, what is there to look out for on these tractors? Any help appreciated. Cheers :)

That is awesome sir, love those last of the "analogue" John Deere tractors ( if you despite the ELC and a digital dash :))

Well, transmission is the one thing to pay attention to. That's all from me, I'll let others fill in here:)

Once again, Congrats:)
 

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Should be a lot of life left in that tractor. We have run 50 and 60 series tractors to 20000 plus hrs. I would check and or change the oil in the front end if its mfwd also the hubs they can get spendy if ran dry. Jack it up to check front axle pivot wear. Transmission has a couple big jumps between gears but that is normal. Set front wheels as wide as possible so it turns short. 60" tread doesnt turn the shortest.
 

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I would look for the trade in value ;) Jokes aside. I hope it works perfectly for you. When I buy a used tractor the first thing I do is SOS on all oils. Scheduled oil samples. Take oil samples of all oils and send them in. This will tell if anything is majorly failing. Keep doing this as recommended. I don't remember the hours per compartment they advise. May be a bit more often if something looks out of wack.
 

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Pull the hydric filters and look for metal shavings, potentially bad clutch packs, but more likely dragging park break.
Engine is pretty good.. She will like her fuel.

Had issue with the ball joint linkage at the end of the shifter levers where it connects with the tranny, cheap ball joint...
Front Axel oil, and level... Use the proper oil.. I think it calls for hydraulic.. Someone replaced our 4850s with 85-140 and it regularly weeps out the front shaft seals... Open the plug and just add more. I think our 4x4 was creating internal pressure because once I opened it up it stopped leaking... To heavy of oil got hot and expanded.
Add weight.. 20 front and fluid in the front tires will help a lot.
 

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Pull the hydric filters and look for metal shavings, potentially bad clutch packs, but more likely dragging park break.
Engine is pretty good.. She will like her fuel.

Had issue with the ball joint linkage at the end of the shifter levers where it connects with the tranny, cheap ball joint...
Front Axel oil, and level... Use the proper oil.. I think it calls for hydraulic.. Someone replaced our 4850s with 85-140 and it regularly weeps out the front shaft seals... Open the plug and just add more. I think our 4x4 was creating internal pressure because once I opened it up it stopped leaking... To heavy of oil got hot and expanded.
Add weight.. 20 front and fluid in the front tires will help a lot.
Might want to read your manual there 88.... clearly states the proper oil for both the front axle and planetaries is 85-140 gear oil:eek: And that goes for all of them 50 thru 60 series including the earlier ones with the ZF axle.
 

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You cannot run a gearbox without a breather, due to temperature expansion and contraction. Weld a jic fitting in the axle plug for checking level. Put a #4 hydraulic hose with a 90 to this and run the hose up to an enclosed area and put a fuel filter on it. Inline gas filter will work. This relieves pressure and helps weeping. So check and see if there is a breather. If there isn't you can put one on
 

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You cannot run a gearbox without a breather, due to temperature expansion and contraction. Weld a jic fitting in the axle plug for checking level. Put a #4 hydraulic hose with a 90 to this and run the hose up to an enclosed area and put a fuel filter on it. Inline gas filter will work. This relieves pressure and helps weeping. So check and see if there is a breather. If there isn't you can put one on
Breather is just to the right of the axle pivot on the Deere axle (very late 50 series, all 55 and 60 series), not sure without looking in the axle manual where it is on the ZF that was used previously. It is common to have slight pressure build up inside the planetaries when warm...that's just a sign your seals are holding good as it is impossible to have breathers on them;)
 

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what is there to look out for on these tractors?
Is it not a little late to be asking that?

I often wonder how people can afford to run old tractors like this, it could easily end up eating several tens of thousands of $ in repairs + the time it spends in thousands of pieces in the work shop when it should be earning its keep.

On the axle breather front, get the tractor good and hot, then take the plug out to relieve the pressure, then screw it back in. That way it won't get hot enough to pop the seal.
 

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Cheers fellas. Willy, very possibly true but for my 250 acres ive got it will be a pretty good fit providing she plays nice. Im 25 and i needed a tractor so it was sort of a decision on the fly. Was only a 3 hr drive to pick it up, it was cheap, has 3pl and pto so for the jobs i want to do i think its a good fit and these things played into the "risk" of having a go at it. Just wanted a few ideas of what to look at with these johnnys.
Local jd dealer is just goning to do a few tidy up jobs on it. New ac compressor a couple other bits and pieces and has quoted 1500 for and about the same for labour im guessing. So still ends up being a good value buy if it goes the distance imo.
I know it will use a bit of motion lotion but any rough ideas how much?
8850, it has a full 15 weights on the front so saw that as a bonus.
Thanks again you blokes. Keep suggestions coming :)
 

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Our newest tractor has over6000 hrs on it. We have 2 with 20000 2 with15000 2 with 12000 and several between7000 and 10000. We put an average of 600 hrs per year on each. Do they break sometimes yes. New equipment can break also. For what we do all the fancy bells and whistles are not necessary
 

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I often wonder how people can afford to run old tractors like this, it could easily end up eating several tens of thousands of $ in repairs + the time it spends in thousands of pieces in the work shop when it should be earning its keep.
I bought a 4760 with 3,000 hrs on it. Now has nearly 14,000 and my depreciation and maintenance cost including tires would be around $6/hr. Don't know of too many newer ones that can match that.

Several tens of thousands of dollars? Not sure it's even possible to spend that kind of $ on these units. I guess I might by the time she hits 20,000 hrs. ;)
 

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I don`t think Willy really thought it through!:)

The purchase price is only part of the story and you will often swap depreciation for repairs, however you can budget for depreciation, but repairs can surprise you at any time. It's the total ownership cost that is important.

People buy a machine to do a job, if the machine is in numerous pieces in a workshop somewhere, not only have you the cost of the repair, but you also have the cost of either sourcing a replacement machine or the work not getting done.

Here I would keep my capital in my pocket and hire a new, warrantied 7230 (if I wanted a green one) which would cost me £950/wk for 60 hours use between March and October. If it breaks I'd get on the phone and the hire company would either come and fix it or send me another one. All of this would be 100% tax deductible and leave me with some £££ to spend on seed, fertiliser etc which will make you some money. You also know exactly what your costs are before you even turn the key.

OP, you have an old tractor, just run it while it goes, if anything major goes with it (it will), just cut your losses and scrap it. I don't buy the "we have a machine with 20,000 hours on it and it's never cost us a penny". It has, it's cost them fortunes in overhauls and repairs over the years and they still have an old machine.
 

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Cheers fellas. Willy, very possibly true but for my 250 acres ive got it will be a pretty good fit providing she plays nice. Im 25 and i needed a tractor so it was sort of a decision on the fly. Was only a 3 hr drive to pick it up, it was cheap, has 3pl and pto so for the jobs i want to do i think its a good fit and these things played into the "risk" of having a go at it. Just wanted a few ideas of what to look at with these johnnys.
Local jd dealer is just goning to do a few tidy up jobs on it. New ac compressor a couple other bits and pieces and has quoted 1500 for and about the same for labour im guessing. So still ends up being a good value buy if it goes the distance imo.
I know it will use a bit of motion lotion but any rough ideas how much?
8850, it has a full 15 weights on the front so saw that as a bonus.
Thanks again you blokes. Keep suggestions coming :)
It is a great tractor. Keep in mind that everything needs maintenance and repairs. With a proper ones, they go over 30k, 40k hrs.....I'VE SEEN' EM !!!!!!!
Just recently, a big farming company was auctioning them after getting new R's.....very shortly, R's started to break down and have "some issues".....needless to say, they pulled the remaining 4755, 4955 off of the auction lot and hoocked up ploughs to get the job done.
I think that for the most of us, considering the volume of work and what we do, those tractors are sufficient. I put cca.200hrs a year on each of mine tractors.....I't would take me a looooooonnngggg time to pay of a new R with that much work.
 
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