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**John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Thread
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Re: John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Thre
The tube at the top of the tailings elevator likes to crack where it connects to the rotor shell. I beef up the welds and make them longer and thicker than factory.
The sieve and chaffer on 50 and 60 series are prone to cracking, particularly at the front of the frame. The newest part #s are built a little stronger,but I have still seen them crack. This can only be seen by removing them from the machine. Also, if you are suddenly getting full heads of wheat in the grain tank or other large items, don't be surprised if fins are falling out of your sieve. Not uncommon for this to happen. Only fix is complete replacement.
As was a problem for years on 9600s/10s, the top feederhouse shaft slip clutch keyway cracks on 50 series combines. 60 series have a splined setup that is much better (Finally!)
The extra heavy duty feederhouse conveyor chains used for the last few years on STSs use large j-hooks to hold the connector links. I have had a number of these crack and fall out and what happens after that is not pretty (or cheap). The hooks seem to be too brittle. I still use them, but I put a small tack weld from the hook to the center pin, not the end plate as it will bind.
If you have a 50 series STS, try uprading to the elements used in the rear of the bullet rotor. It's alot cheaper than a bullet rotor and much easier to install and the performance increase is still quite noticeable. Putting a bullet rotor into a 50 series is a partial waste because the tri-stream area is not as open as a 60 series and thus cannot fullly utilise the potential of the rotor.
Don't forget the rotor driven sheave helixes on STSs used corn head grease in the cavity. Run the rotor up to full speed, and remove the plug on the rear of the sheave.(30mm) The level should be approximately 2 inches below the bottom of the hole.
The tube at the top of the tailings elevator likes to crack where it connects to the rotor shell. I beef up the welds and make them longer and thicker than factory.
The sieve and chaffer on 50 and 60 series are prone to cracking, particularly at the front of the frame. The newest part #s are built a little stronger,but I have still seen them crack. This can only be seen by removing them from the machine. Also, if you are suddenly getting full heads of wheat in the grain tank or other large items, don't be surprised if fins are falling out of your sieve. Not uncommon for this to happen. Only fix is complete replacement.
As was a problem for years on 9600s/10s, the top feederhouse shaft slip clutch keyway cracks on 50 series combines. 60 series have a splined setup that is much better (Finally!)
The extra heavy duty feederhouse conveyor chains used for the last few years on STSs use large j-hooks to hold the connector links. I have had a number of these crack and fall out and what happens after that is not pretty (or cheap). The hooks seem to be too brittle. I still use them, but I put a small tack weld from the hook to the center pin, not the end plate as it will bind.
If you have a 50 series STS, try uprading to the elements used in the rear of the bullet rotor. It's alot cheaper than a bullet rotor and much easier to install and the performance increase is still quite noticeable. Putting a bullet rotor into a 50 series is a partial waste because the tri-stream area is not as open as a 60 series and thus cannot fullly utilise the potential of the rotor.
Don't forget the rotor driven sheave helixes on STSs used corn head grease in the cavity. Run the rotor up to full speed, and remove the plug on the rear of the sheave.(30mm) The level should be approximately 2 inches below the bottom of the hole.
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Re: John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Thre
There is a grease zerk between the header electric clutch and the primary gear box (behind the cab)on 50 and 60 series. It greases the splines on the primary counter shaft running through this gear box. This zerk is not documented anywhere. I had a gearbox and counter shaft go out because the splines got dry and destroyed each other.
Change the oil in the feederhouse reverser as soon as it starts getting black. The might be several times during the season. This is most important during corn harvest. Always use synthetic oil in it. I would also recommend synthetic grease for the sheaves, because it withstands the heat better.
The same applies for the primary gear box (behind cab).
Keep your feeder house conveyor chain snug to spec. It makes the floor last much longer.
Hardfacing the augers in the clean grain handling system at least doubles their life. Most important are the fountain auger and the vertical unloading auger.
The latter one likes the splines to be greased well, what can only be done when it is taken out. Harvesting high moisture grain can make this auger be pushed upwards against the 90 degree gear box. Soon after that it will destroy its lower splines resulting in a new auger and a new shaft for the lower gear box.
The vents on the final drives (wheels) like to plug up, resulting in water getting inside and eventual corrosion. Check the oil at least once a year and make sure the vent is in the top most hole on the final drive.
There is a grease zerk between the header electric clutch and the primary gear box (behind the cab)on 50 and 60 series. It greases the splines on the primary counter shaft running through this gear box. This zerk is not documented anywhere. I had a gearbox and counter shaft go out because the splines got dry and destroyed each other.
Change the oil in the feederhouse reverser as soon as it starts getting black. The might be several times during the season. This is most important during corn harvest. Always use synthetic oil in it. I would also recommend synthetic grease for the sheaves, because it withstands the heat better.
The same applies for the primary gear box (behind cab).
Keep your feeder house conveyor chain snug to spec. It makes the floor last much longer.
Hardfacing the augers in the clean grain handling system at least doubles their life. Most important are the fountain auger and the vertical unloading auger.
The latter one likes the splines to be greased well, what can only be done when it is taken out. Harvesting high moisture grain can make this auger be pushed upwards against the 90 degree gear box. Soon after that it will destroy its lower splines resulting in a new auger and a new shaft for the lower gear box.
The vents on the final drives (wheels) like to plug up, resulting in water getting inside and eventual corrosion. Check the oil at least once a year and make sure the vent is in the top most hole on the final drive.
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289 Posts
Re: John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Thre
Keep an eye on the large bearings in the shaker arms for the shoe drive. They do not have grease fittings and eventually go dry and fail. When they fail, it does not take long to destroy the entire shoe.
I give them a life time of about 800 separator hours. If the combine does lots of corn the life span is shorter, in wheat only it is longer.
They can be greased by drilling a small hole into the bearing seal and a grease needle on the grease gun. Then the hole needs to be carefully closed with silicon. But this is no guarranty.
Keep an eye on the large bearings in the shaker arms for the shoe drive. They do not have grease fittings and eventually go dry and fail. When they fail, it does not take long to destroy the entire shoe.
I give them a life time of about 800 separator hours. If the combine does lots of corn the life span is shorter, in wheat only it is longer.
They can be greased by drilling a small hole into the bearing seal and a grease needle on the grease gun. Then the hole needs to be carefully closed with silicon. But this is no guarranty.
Re: John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Thre
9650STS has had issues with the RH bearing on the primary countershaft loosing the lock collar and ruining the shaft. You can update to a heavier bearing and shaft.
All 50 and 60 series have trouble with shoe auger drive gears being loose and wearing on the shaft. They should be TIGHT on the shaft. Same with the driven gears, roll pins holding the gear to the auger can elongate the holes.
60 series, reverser output shaft o-ring. Look under the feederhouse, at the right hand side of the reverser, where the backshaft comes out. You will more than likley see oil seeping between the shaft and the reverser output hub. Oring gets smashed by the torque of the reverser and leaks. (Engineer that thought this system up should be beaten with a rubber mallet.) Remove backshaft & replace with "new and improved" oring. Then do it again every year!
Starting to see a trickle of problems with the variable vane turbo. Vanes sticking. Will see if the trickle turns into a flood.
9650STS has had issues with the RH bearing on the primary countershaft loosing the lock collar and ruining the shaft. You can update to a heavier bearing and shaft.
All 50 and 60 series have trouble with shoe auger drive gears being loose and wearing on the shaft. They should be TIGHT on the shaft. Same with the driven gears, roll pins holding the gear to the auger can elongate the holes.
60 series, reverser output shaft o-ring. Look under the feederhouse, at the right hand side of the reverser, where the backshaft comes out. You will more than likley see oil seeping between the shaft and the reverser output hub. Oring gets smashed by the torque of the reverser and leaks. (Engineer that thought this system up should be beaten with a rubber mallet.) Remove backshaft & replace with "new and improved" oring. Then do it again every year!
Starting to see a trickle of problems with the variable vane turbo. Vanes sticking. Will see if the trickle turns into a flood.
Re: John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Thre
I know one thing to look out for, be even more careful about running rocks threw the Bullet Rotors. A man i was working for had a 9860, he ran a rock threw on accident and we walked behind it and picked up "alot" of the tines on the rotor, rocks would bust them right off.
Swartz
I know one thing to look out for, be even more careful about running rocks threw the Bullet Rotors. A man i was working for had a 9860, he ran a rock threw on accident and we walked behind it and picked up "alot" of the tines on the rotor, rocks would bust them right off.
Swartz
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45 Posts
Re: **John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
there is a new f.h. con. chain connector that has bolts that when you put the plate on other side it has nuts instead of s pins, just came out this fall fyi gl thought you might like to know
the reverser should be greased daily to give it more life
when you put the oring on fh shaft try to put a little silicone on it seems to help, don't leak so fast
there is a new f.h. con. chain connector that has bolts that when you put the plate on other side it has nuts instead of s pins, just came out this fall fyi gl thought you might like to know
the reverser should be greased daily to give it more life
when you put the oring on fh shaft try to put a little silicone on it seems to help, don't leak so fast
Re: **John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
check your grain tank legs for cracks and areas that are buckling, left rear leg likes to crack right by powershaft, on 06 and early 07's the front left leg likes to buckle right at the bottom where it bolts to the frame, right in front of the primary c/shaft gearcase, deere has a fix as fail pip on these machines
inside the clean grain elevator lower boot, the divider likes to crack inward from the both sides, (have seen a lot of these)
on earlier machines the upper cleaning fan sheave bracket likes to crack away from the frame especially on the top side, along with a crack where the fan adjuster motor bracket is welded on
on early 50's with the steel chopper drive shields, check out the side sheets where the drive idler supports are
all machines, the front lower chopper support brackets on both sides crack where they bolt to the frame, they would be under the air chutes if your machine is equipped, i suggest ordering the brackets off of the latest 60 series, they are at least twice as thick as original, same goes for the main chopper hinges, they are beefed up significantly as well
check your grain tank legs for cracks and areas that are buckling, left rear leg likes to crack right by powershaft, on 06 and early 07's the front left leg likes to buckle right at the bottom where it bolts to the frame, right in front of the primary c/shaft gearcase, deere has a fix as fail pip on these machines
inside the clean grain elevator lower boot, the divider likes to crack inward from the both sides, (have seen a lot of these)
on earlier machines the upper cleaning fan sheave bracket likes to crack away from the frame especially on the top side, along with a crack where the fan adjuster motor bracket is welded on
on early 50's with the steel chopper drive shields, check out the side sheets where the drive idler supports are
all machines, the front lower chopper support brackets on both sides crack where they bolt to the frame, they would be under the air chutes if your machine is equipped, i suggest ordering the brackets off of the latest 60 series, they are at least twice as thick as original, same goes for the main chopper hinges, they are beefed up significantly as well
Re: **John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
We have 2 ctsII machines and were told by a dealer to replace the beater with the new wing/v beater and we should gain half mph while harvesting. Can anyone confirm this and are there any other updates/performance improvements we could make to small grain harvesting with these machines? We tried comparing full finger 930r to 936d headers and the 936 kept snapping the head off the sickle. It would have outperformaned slightly.
We have 2 ctsII machines and were told by a dealer to replace the beater with the new wing/v beater and we should gain half mph while harvesting. Can anyone confirm this and are there any other updates/performance improvements we could make to small grain harvesting with these machines? We tried comparing full finger 930r to 936d headers and the 936 kept snapping the head off the sickle. It would have outperformaned slightly.
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1,636 Posts
Re: **John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Bracket that holds the tailing elevator will break right at the weld. Once it is welding it is usally fine. Plus the brackets on the right side that hold tension on the belts are also cheap. But once again if they are welded good you will not have a problem.
Bracket that holds the tailing elevator will break right at the weld. Once it is welding it is usally fine. Plus the brackets on the right side that hold tension on the belts are also cheap. But once again if they are welded good you will not have a problem.
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1,636 Posts
Re: **John Deere Rotors Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Another big thing, ALWAYS unhook the ground wire going to the frame before you weld. If you don't you will f**k up the electronics.
Another big thing, ALWAYS unhook the ground wire going to the frame before you weld. If you don't you will f**k up the electronics.
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