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**John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Thread
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Re: John Deere Walkers Repair/Maintenance Tips Thr
Change the oil in feederhouse reverser gearbox and primary countershaft gearbox every 1000 hours or even sooner if it smells bad. These two boxes get more load than others on the machine and the oil breaks down sooner, especially with a large corn head. Deere recommends replacing oil every 2000 hours and thats too long.
Try a Sunnnybrook/Deere high inertia threshing cylinder for more capacity, less vibration issues, and an easier life for your variable cylinder belt.
When the wood blocks that support the rear of the 7 shoe grain augers wear out, replace them with two blocks doubled up. Its easier, simpler, and longer lasting than the roller bearing update that can be done.
Change the oil in feederhouse reverser gearbox and primary countershaft gearbox every 1000 hours or even sooner if it smells bad. These two boxes get more load than others on the machine and the oil breaks down sooner, especially with a large corn head. Deere recommends replacing oil every 2000 hours and thats too long.
Try a Sunnnybrook/Deere high inertia threshing cylinder for more capacity, less vibration issues, and an easier life for your variable cylinder belt.
When the wood blocks that support the rear of the 7 shoe grain augers wear out, replace them with two blocks doubled up. Its easier, simpler, and longer lasting than the roller bearing update that can be done.
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Re: John Deere Walkers Repair/Maintenance Tips Thr
Quote:Check the Primary Countershaft U-joints that runs through the grain tank. Grease them once or twice a harvest season. Sure is a pain to replace them if they go out.
The newer u-joints don't have grease fittings anymore. If you have to replace one and would like to have a grease fitting on it, NAPA sells the u-joint with grease fittings on.
There is a grease zerk between the header electric clutch and the primary gear box (behind the cab)on 50 and 60 series. It greases the splines on the primary counter shaft running through this gear box. This zerk is not documented anywhere. I had a gearbox and counter shaft go out because the splines got dry and destroyed each other.
Quote:Check the Primary Countershaft U-joints that runs through the grain tank. Grease them once or twice a harvest season. Sure is a pain to replace them if they go out.
The newer u-joints don't have grease fittings anymore. If you have to replace one and would like to have a grease fitting on it, NAPA sells the u-joint with grease fittings on.
There is a grease zerk between the header electric clutch and the primary gear box (behind the cab)on 50 and 60 series. It greases the splines on the primary counter shaft running through this gear box. This zerk is not documented anywhere. I had a gearbox and counter shaft go out because the splines got dry and destroyed each other.
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Re: John Deere Walkers Repair/Maintenance Tips Thr
[quote author=greentech board=JD thread=1162360956 post=1162823779]Change the oil in feederhouse reverser gearbox and primary countershaft gearbox every 1000 hours or even sooner if it smells bad.
A JD mechanic we know recommends changing oil in feederhouse reverser box everytime we change engine oil.And since they don't hold enough oil to begin with(on 8820's anyway)they should be slightly overfilled.Same mechanic also said to watchout on new cornhead stalkroll gearboxes.He's seen some with barely a tablespoon of grease in them new from factory!Never trust ANY factory to properly fill gearboxes.
If you get a new flexhead from Deere make sure you check the oil in the wobblebox.If it's low it's hard to see and will slowly overheat the seals and leak out and fail just outside the warrenty period
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.We found out the hard way.And this box should also be overfilled slightly
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If you have to replace the chaffer frame swingarms make sure they are welded square and true otherwise they will cause a bind on things.Especially true on Titan II machines since they are so much more high-performance than 1st Titans.We've had to return brand new unused swingarms because they weren't welded properly.Don't install upside down either(it has been done by dealer mechanics we've found).And make sure to replace the rubber bushings BEFORE they fail
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[quote author=greentech board=JD thread=1162360956 post=1162823779]Change the oil in feederhouse reverser gearbox and primary countershaft gearbox every 1000 hours or even sooner if it smells bad.
A JD mechanic we know recommends changing oil in feederhouse reverser box everytime we change engine oil.And since they don't hold enough oil to begin with(on 8820's anyway)they should be slightly overfilled.Same mechanic also said to watchout on new cornhead stalkroll gearboxes.He's seen some with barely a tablespoon of grease in them new from factory!Never trust ANY factory to properly fill gearboxes.
If you get a new flexhead from Deere make sure you check the oil in the wobblebox.If it's low it's hard to see and will slowly overheat the seals and leak out and fail just outside the warrenty period
If you have to replace the chaffer frame swingarms make sure they are welded square and true otherwise they will cause a bind on things.Especially true on Titan II machines since they are so much more high-performance than 1st Titans.We've had to return brand new unused swingarms because they weren't welded properly.Don't install upside down either(it has been done by dealer mechanics we've found).And make sure to replace the rubber bushings BEFORE they fail
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Re: John Deere Walkers Repair/Maintenance Tips Thr
take out your cylinder filler bars and you won't have any trash in there to begin with.
Replace aluminum walker greaser blocks with oil impregnated wood ones. No more grease.
take out your cylinder filler bars and you won't have any trash in there to begin with.
Replace aluminum walker greaser blocks with oil impregnated wood ones. No more grease.
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Re: John Deere Walkers Repair/Maintenance Tips Thr
We run a 9610 and when we run the fan up to try and clean up the sample when can never get it to come back down. Dealer has worked on it a few times only to not work once we start harvesting. Do you guys have any ideas as to how to fix this without calling dealer.
We run a 9610 and when we run the fan up to try and clean up the sample when can never get it to come back down. Dealer has worked on it a few times only to not work once we start harvesting. Do you guys have any ideas as to how to fix this without calling dealer.
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Re: John Deere Walkers Repair/Maintenance Tips Thr
unhook the electric actuator, hit the switch. Does it move both ways? Are both leads connected and have voltage when actuator is energized? Might look at both ground and hot connections and follow the wiring. Also, might check switch end, and any breakers involved if you haven't already found the glitch.
unhook the electric actuator, hit the switch. Does it move both ways? Are both leads connected and have voltage when actuator is energized? Might look at both ground and hot connections and follow the wiring. Also, might check switch end, and any breakers involved if you haven't already found the glitch.
Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Grease the electric clutch every day. Also grease the zerks (3 on a bank)that go to the unloading auger's swing. In addition, the 90* gearbox's zerk is kinda hard to get to, but it's important! On the left side of the fan shaft, there is a little clutch assembly..be sure that is greased well..I learned that the hard way!
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Grease the electric clutch every day. Also grease the zerks (3 on a bank)that go to the unloading auger's swing. In addition, the 90* gearbox's zerk is kinda hard to get to, but it's important! On the left side of the fan shaft, there is a little clutch assembly..be sure that is greased well..I learned that the hard way!
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Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Make sure to engage header on idle , or before sep switch is engaged. This a huge fire starter on all john deere combines.Not that i would like anyone to do this , but you haven't lived till you see all the fire raining out of the header clutch when it is engaged w.o.t, especially at night.
Make sure to engage header on idle , or before sep switch is engaged. This a huge fire starter on all john deere combines.Not that i would like anyone to do this , but you haven't lived till you see all the fire raining out of the header clutch when it is engaged w.o.t, especially at night.
Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Hey TxFarmer, I am new to this site and own a 9600 also. I really like all the tips that are posted.
I am trying to visualize the little clutch assembly that you greased.
"On the left side of the fan shaft, there is a little clutch assembly..be sure that is greased well..I learned that the hard way!"
Is this on the separator fan drive?.....or the engine cooling fan?
Thanks in advance....kscutter
Hey TxFarmer, I am new to this site and own a 9600 also. I really like all the tips that are posted.
I am trying to visualize the little clutch assembly that you greased.
"On the left side of the fan shaft, there is a little clutch assembly..be sure that is greased well..I learned that the hard way!"
Is this on the separator fan drive?.....or the engine cooling fan?
Thanks in advance....kscutter
Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
I replace the bushings, springs and bolts on the mill fan drive every season to keep from ruining the pulley. Had the inner pulley however ruin the shaft on my 50 last season. Too much slop.
I replace all the distribution auger bearings in front every season and keep a spare cross shaft in my parts box. I usually only get a about 3 seasons out of those little one inch diam. shafts.
I replace the bushings, springs and bolts on the mill fan drive every season to keep from ruining the pulley. Had the inner pulley however ruin the shaft on my 50 last season. Too much slop.
I replace all the distribution auger bearings in front every season and keep a spare cross shaft in my parts box. I usually only get a about 3 seasons out of those little one inch diam. shafts.
Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Here is my tip that I can share:
Check the brushes for wear that are inside the electric clutch module for the Header drive. two small screws and it is easy to see the brushes (just don't drop the screws). Separator had right at 2100 hours.
Here is my tip that I can share:
Check the brushes for wear that are inside the electric clutch module for the Header drive. two small screws and it is easy to see the brushes (just don't drop the screws). Separator had right at 2100 hours.
Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Quote:Make sure to engage header on idle , or before sep switch is engaged. This a huge fire starter on all john deere combines.Not that i would like anyone to do this , but you haven't lived till you see all the fire raining out of the header clutch when it is engaged w.o.t, especially at night.
Yeah this is a major no-no. I can't believe how many operators do this. Do you let out the clutch in your half-ton with the throttle to the floor? Well your combine is no different, unless you like replacing a very expensive clutch. Take the time to throttle down. Also, reversing at full throttle is hard on the feederhouse slip clutch keyway, which is already a weak point.
Quote:Make sure to engage header on idle , or before sep switch is engaged. This a huge fire starter on all john deere combines.Not that i would like anyone to do this , but you haven't lived till you see all the fire raining out of the header clutch when it is engaged w.o.t, especially at night.
Yeah this is a major no-no. I can't believe how many operators do this. Do you let out the clutch in your half-ton with the throttle to the floor? Well your combine is no different, unless you like replacing a very expensive clutch. Take the time to throttle down. Also, reversing at full throttle is hard on the feederhouse slip clutch keyway, which is already a weak point.
Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Thats a BIG 10-4 on the walker bearings. my 50 only lasted about 1200 hrs. I never had a problem with these bearings on my older 9600. Come to find out I took these deere new bearings destined for the walkers to a bearing house near by and they arent what they seem to be. I told the guy when I walked in that I have a pre engineered life problem with bearings,, he laughed, but by the end of our meeting he was convinvced. Some quick research exposed that deere is using C-4 tolerence or clearence in that particular bearing, Normal clearence of bearings is a C-0. All the other walker crank bearings are a C-0, except this one behind the box. ALSO, All these bearings as most on these machines have only single lip seals or shields on the bearings and nothing special for grease. I am retrofitting all these bearings to a C-0 clearence, metal shielded, tripple lip, greaseable bearing with wider inner race for better handling of eratic, radial loads. The buy at the bearing house could not believe that all of the bearings I brought to him from many parts of the machine all had single lip seals and were not greaseable to purge out contaminants. Im also going to wood blocks on the walkers to get away from pesky alloys and three tubes a day greasing interval.
Thats a BIG 10-4 on the walker bearings. my 50 only lasted about 1200 hrs. I never had a problem with these bearings on my older 9600. Come to find out I took these deere new bearings destined for the walkers to a bearing house near by and they arent what they seem to be. I told the guy when I walked in that I have a pre engineered life problem with bearings,, he laughed, but by the end of our meeting he was convinvced. Some quick research exposed that deere is using C-4 tolerence or clearence in that particular bearing, Normal clearence of bearings is a C-0. All the other walker crank bearings are a C-0, except this one behind the box. ALSO, All these bearings as most on these machines have only single lip seals or shields on the bearings and nothing special for grease. I am retrofitting all these bearings to a C-0 clearence, metal shielded, tripple lip, greaseable bearing with wider inner race for better handling of eratic, radial loads. The buy at the bearing house could not believe that all of the bearings I brought to him from many parts of the machine all had single lip seals and were not greaseable to purge out contaminants. Im also going to wood blocks on the walkers to get away from pesky alloys and three tubes a day greasing interval.
Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
My experiences:
Reverser box: synthetic oil every season.
Good gasket on elec. panel
Check fuel tank strainer annually
Check bolt that holds walker box on shaft
Grease the back axle pivot like grease is cheap
900 flex: outside push link near wobble box. Mine stay broken.
My experiences:
Reverser box: synthetic oil every season.
Good gasket on elec. panel
Check fuel tank strainer annually
Check bolt that holds walker box on shaft
Grease the back axle pivot like grease is cheap
900 flex: outside push link near wobble box. Mine stay broken.
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Re: **John Deere Walker Repair/Maintenance Tips Th
Suprised no one mentioned this before. Keep it clean. We blow ours off nearly every night when we finish. Sure makes it alot nicer to grease the next morning and keeps all that crap from swirling around and ending up in the fuel tank strainer when you fuel up. Also helps to keep the paint and metal from rusting in some of those corners where the crap collects and then when it rains just becomes a nice corrosive agent. Another thing on the gull wing doors on the sides of the 9x00 and 9x10's take the bottom deflector off the door. These are the little deals that just collect dust and chaff behind them and rust out your doors. But make sure you give your doors a little smack when these are removed before opening it all the way as it really sucks getting that chaff that sits there down the back of your neck(experience speaking here LOL)
Like many others have said grease is cheap and down time is expensive. We grease almost every 10-100 hour zerk just about everyday and even some of the 200 & 400 hour zerks everyday.
Suprised no one mentioned this before. Keep it clean. We blow ours off nearly every night when we finish. Sure makes it alot nicer to grease the next morning and keeps all that crap from swirling around and ending up in the fuel tank strainer when you fuel up. Also helps to keep the paint and metal from rusting in some of those corners where the crap collects and then when it rains just becomes a nice corrosive agent. Another thing on the gull wing doors on the sides of the 9x00 and 9x10's take the bottom deflector off the door. These are the little deals that just collect dust and chaff behind them and rust out your doors. But make sure you give your doors a little smack when these are removed before opening it all the way as it really sucks getting that chaff that sits there down the back of your neck(experience speaking here LOL)
Like many others have said grease is cheap and down time is expensive. We grease almost every 10-100 hour zerk just about everyday and even some of the 200 & 400 hour zerks everyday.
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