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Discussion Starter #2
Typical of IHC, the part I really needed ( the long rockshaft) is no longer available so the decision was made to try to straighten it on the machine.
159545
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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmm... not sure why pics are double posting. You can see I also have some bending on the back frame rail from when the wheel kicked up. Everything was fine in the field... it hit the fan when I turned onto a gravel grid road at 2 mph and hit a soft frost boil in the road. The front tire sank and tried to flip the walking beam upside down. In addition to the nasty bend in the rockshaft tube, there is some torsional twisting as well I'm trying to deal with...
159546
 

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Wet conditions here have really slowed down seeding... lots of guys in this area are barely starting. This old 645 has been my secret weapon for dealing with last year's stubble and mapping out where we can drive on the fields. So far the tube hasn't kinked or cracked... I'm hoping it doesn't. Wish me luck. That pull ram isn't something I use every day... to protect the ram in storage (since it's always extended) I keep the cylinder rod coated in grease and made this protective plastic sleeve for it.
159547
 

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That has the five ranks, what series is that? Looks something like the frame I have on my 4700 vibra tiller, except yours is the older style. My rockshaft brackets are heavier and greasable as well.
 

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K I see you just posted a 645, that number not familiar to me...no way in hell that rockshaft can just be straitened and used, she's done as is, to try and get away with that won't end well, you got a bigger repair here than you think. Either get some heavy schedule pipe and make a new one else you will need to sleeve it or load it with a solid shaft and re enforce it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No grease nipples on this one, but surprising little wear. That's the old 645. When I bought it, it had been set up for anhydrous application and a bunch of shanks were missing. I bought a parts machine with a broken frame and added extra shanks and frame rails to get proper 12" spacing across the machine. The original configuration left "gaps" in weed control... they fudged on spacings around the walking beams.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is vibra chisel, not vibra shank... heavier. I share your concerns, but changing out that tube isn't an option unless I find an identical parts machine, and they are few and far between. I'm considering an internal pipe, but the weld seam on the old one prevents a good fit.
 

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A vibra tiller like mine is in between the two and has the large frame with heavier trips and shanks than a vibra shank.
Myself I would sleeve it, easy enough to remanufacture that inner support for a larger diameter, most of the bend is inside that anyway, looks like the first couple feet from the leg is ok still. You can buy just the pipe from a steel yard and rebuild it. I have even seen where heavy angle iron was welded on both sides boxing it in to repair a bent or broken rockshaft. Different ways to do it
 

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Ordered new tires/tubes (2) for a 60 year old 16’ John Deere 100 chisel plow, seems inconsequential compared to your breakdown whtbaron.
But at roughly 280$’s I may have doubled its value.

Funny thing, called my local tire shop concerned they may be made of unobtainium, Jim answers, explained what I was looking for, gave him the size 6.70...he finished my sentence, 15.
Apparently 32 years in the tire business will do that.
None on hand at his shop but 74 in the Edmonton warehouse.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yea... I've still got a couple machines I don't use much with 14" rims on them... some of those sizes are special order as well. Most I've switched up to 15" where feasible.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That has the five ranks, what series is that? Looks something like the frame I have on my 4700 vibra tiller, except yours is the older style. My rockshaft brackets are heavier and greasable as well.
Back in the day (circa 79 I believe) the options would have been 45 Vibra Shank , 645 Vibra Chisel and 55 Chisel Plow... so it's probably more similar to your vibra tiller than a vibra shank.
 

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Back in the day (circa 79 I believe) the options would have been 45 Vibra Shank , 645 Vibra Chisel and 55 Chisel Plow... so it's probably more similar to your vibra tiller than a vibra shank.
Sounds and looks like it yes, mine is a bit newer. Was thinking about this, and one thing you could do if you can get the rockshaft straight enough, is make extended bearings for it, as to spread out over a larger contact area, that would help take some of the flex out of the shaft where it has been weakened by getting bent.The main load is carried by the cylinders anyway. In this part of the country, some of those older IH machines get given away because the shanks and trips are wore out. My 4700 is getting there too. Some of my trips are wore to where I can move the shovel a couple inches sideways. Its 6.75 spacing IIRC and I use 9 or 11 inch so they need to be wore a bit before any misses. Actually don't even use it that much anymore, always have a chisel plow now with sweeps and they handle the rocks and trash better.
 

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Good to see someone else practicing all the same safety precautions that I take on a job such as this.
My only concerns are that the chains look a little too new, no stretched links, or missing cotter pins in the hooks,.
The extensions as jack handles fit far too well, and are unlikely to come out and wreck anyones knuckles, not nearly long enough to get the full 40 ton capacity of the 20 ton jack
I only see one jackall at a precarious angle, and no indication of snipes for the handle. I always recommend at least 3 if not 4 jackalls, that way there is no possible way for one of them not to come flying out an hit me when it all slips out.
The hydraulic jack has almost half of its surface against the beam, that is too much, and it needs more angle.
Your hands are much too clean and grease free, how will the jackall handle ever slip out and smack the operator in the chin like that?
Where is the mandatory mud and water and snow? Green grass just won't cut it for a work surface around here, too much secure footing, nothing gets lost, no shocks when it comes time to weld.

Otherwise, very well done, I have some similar projects on the list, how soon can you start?

I have found I really appreciate the air over hydraulc jack for these types of situations, that way I can stay safely behind something big when operating the jack, and when it goes flying across the shop( or the outdoor shop), there are less victims.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
lol... it's in the grass because I didn't want to block the shop door... not sure how long it's going to take. I'm already working on a used walking beam from another machine. I can get this one close, but not close enough and as has already been mentioned, it's strength has likely been compromised. I've only got about 300 acres left for it to do so I'm hoping to limp it home before it needs major surgery. The problem I'm having now is that back frame rail. There's no way to bring the end of the rock shaft down until the frame is in the right place. I've got 2 20 ton jacks on it and I might have to look for 50's . It is good grade chain, but I'm getting antsy at 40 ton. I've got a towel over it to help contain shrapnel, but this frame is tough stuff. The truck brake booster needs replacing (got damaged when I broke the driveshaft in 3 pieces) the water pump on one tractor is leaking, another is in the shop with transmission issues, a drive clutch on one drill needs replacing as does 2 mufflers and exhaust pipes... my list is long enough thank you.
 

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That made me cringe, whtbaron!:eek:
As AB said, there's no way you'll get that straight enough using that technique. There's a good chance you'll maim yourself instead! Take some measurements. Cut out the bent bits, keep the straight bits and sleeve them back to the original length. Easier, safer and tidier.
 

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I'll venture an opinion. If you can remove the rock-shaft a 60 or preferably a 100 tonne press should do a good job straightening it. It looks to be heavy wall so should still be strong enough to do its job after straightening. I think this is worth a try. Making a new one and trying to correctly align the welded on components might be problematic.
Where the frame is bent, the material the 20 tonne jack is sitting on will bend before the frame moves. You need something heavy under the jack, like a piece of railway track. The chains also need to be spread further apart. Maybe knock that hingepin on the right hand side out and use that as an anchor for that end. Position the jack and put some tension on the frame. What I think I would do then would be to run some hot welds on the underside only of the frame for a length of say six inches. Do two or three runs on each side. When the weld cools and shrinks it will pull that side and bend the frame down. Keep checking how much effort it takes to pump the jack some more. If it looks like it is going to work, keep jacking and welding until its satisfactory. Be careful not to overdo it. It may take less effort than you think to straighten the frame.
 

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This is vibra chisel, not vibra shank... heavier. I share your concerns, but changing out that tube isn't an option unless I find an identical parts machine, and they are few and far between. I'm considering an internal pipe, but the weld seam on the old one prevents a good fit.
I have a 41' frame sitting with no shanks on it.
 
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