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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Gleaner Guys,

I've searched the archives to no avail about the lower pulley of traction belt heating up. I put new AGCO belt on and let machine idle in neutral for a minute or two and the pulley halves were hot, hottest out close to belt so I don't think it is a bearing issue. Why the heat? Belt tension was according to the book. 1/16" clearance between halves. Any and all help much appreciated. Machine serial number is 25,433.
 

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sounds like a varible speed rebuild job. are your hole oblong in the sheive? grease it regularly? if it aint moving free it will heat up and break the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the previous belt ran hot. Yes, the holes are oblong, about 3/8" inch out of round. Does that allow the two halves of the pulley to move back and forth, and thus create friction on the belt? Has anyone welded the holes back round? Or do I need to buy a new hub #1187983? Thanks, Jim
 

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The outside hub can break when pulling it off, so plan to buy one. No need to buy a shieve, move the inside one to the outside(unless it has already been moved). Go ahead and pull the main shaft and check it, put new bearings in and you won't believe the difference. A tell-tell sign of needing all this is it will speedup slower than it will slowdown.
 

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yeah, same shieve both locations. Those pins screw out that hold the inner shieve in place so the oblong holes dont matter. You will probably break the outer hub (part# 71187983) and replace the bearing that rides the shaft (part# 71116581) just check the shaft where that bearing runs (most people just replace the bearing when it goes out and think the shaft is fine)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
just to clarify, the reason I need to replace the hub (71187983) is because the holes have been worn out of round and do not fit the pins with a close tolerance? New hub is $288. JIm
 

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you will probably break the hub getting it off. If you don't then you will not need it. But they are stuck on the shaft real good. A good puller and some heat might get it off in one piece. If you pull to hard with the puller it will break the flang that the outer shieve bolts to. You need to move the outer shieve to the inside and the inner shieve to the outside if it hasn't been done to save you the money of buying a shieve. If it has oblong holes for the pins then the pins will catch and not slide in and out easily and it will cause one side to be narrower than the other causing heat and stress on the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
bakwoodsfarm,
I don't mean no disrespect, but I looked at a friend's 2 K2s and one had the holes wallowed out big enough that I could stick my index finger in next to the pin. I asked him if it was hard on belts and he said no. Is the main problem wallowed out holes or just needing to swap the sheaves from side to side?
Jim
 

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Jim,
Yes some can be worn and not bind while others will. Both shieve halves are exactly the same other than one has pins screwed into it. If you can get them both off in one piece and put new pins in the half that is worn oblong(holes in other half will be good if they haven't been swapped before) and take pins out of other half and throw them away. Swap inner and outer halves and your belt problems should be cured.
 

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with the holes oblong the shieve cannot travel in and out easily, it will catch and bind and cause the distance between shieves to vary from side to side. that causes heat buildup and stress to break a belt. when the belt breaks it will take out the hydrolic hose going to the cylinder for the varible. They will last for a while when worn out, I bought mine like that and run it 2 years before it gave up. had to rebuild it because i broke 2 80.00 belts in one field. the problem is that nobody ever greased the fitting for the slide. no disrepect taken, just trying to pass on info to help out with something i have already been through just like the ones on here and allischalmers.com have done for me time and time again.
 

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I went through this same problem years ago when we owned a K2. It would burn belts and vibrate at high belt speeds. I ended up swapping the sheaves from side to side, replacing the pins, bearings, and the shaft. It can get expensive fast.
 
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