Kile impeller blades
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Are you referring to Kile mfg. Our ears and wear bars were worn out so we opted for the KRF 80 on a 2388 and put new vanes in the machine. Although I have not ran a true afx combine yet or any other kit, I really like this upgrade and believe it is well worth the money. I had the rotor pulled so installation was really easy. It can be done in the machine also. I have ran it in corn and beans. Next will be wheat but I was pleased with it in every way. I like how it has replaceable wear bars. Some kits don't appear to have replaceable bars but I could be wrong. Other good improvements have come from gordon rotor bars and gordon airjet chaffer. Good luck. Eddie
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Going to purchase one in March, new fiscal year. From what I've heard guys love them around here. Less diesel less power needed, and faster runner times. Going to pull the rotor next year after harvest to put them in have to replace the rasp bars and concaves also at that time. Also look at http://extremecoatings.com/ Know of a guy around here that has put 3000 hours on his concaves and they look new. Also going to do all my augers, bottom/top of the elevators, and cone.
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I have heard of the extremecoatings. Are you going to do everything you mentioned above with it wamag? You might want to do the veins at this time also. What kind of rasp bars are you going to do. I would recomend gordon bars.
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Here's a couple pics of the Kile flights installed showing the 45 degree angle retained from the oe flights where the material enters the transition from the feeder. IMO since case is intent on continuing to use the end feed system to rotor, keeping that 45 degree angle is needed.
Something else that one might try if you are having trouble feeding the rotor or if the rotor seems to be consuming too much power, is to sharpen and adjust the impeller wear blades. Ron Kile now offers this option. Its simple to visualize the need if you've ever removed the front halfmoon cover to the rotor and ran the machine with the rotor at wheat speed. Even though they removed 2 of the impellers, it's still a "wall of steel" that the feeder has to stuff material into. There is a gap between the rotor bearing mount plate and the impellers. This is so the kidney or bearing hub if you wish, can be mounted. When you try to stuff material into the spinning rotor, it has to "transition" to the circular motion, but still retain its rearward movement. The further around the rotor that the material has to go, the longer it takes to make that transition. All the while keeping in mind that more material is being sent in all the way across the feeder. The center bing stuffed right into the bearing hub. By sharpening the wear blades and adjusting them close to the kidney, the material can be cut and start its rearward movement a lot quicker which will free up more space for new material to enter.
In corn, it's probably of very litttle value. But if you want to diagnose your machine, take a look at the face and outside edge of the kidney and also the leading edge and back side of the leading edge of your wear blades. If they're even shiny or have any wear to them at all, material is following the wear blade around and is getting caught between the wear blade and kidney. That's the only way for those surfaces to get any wear. That material being caught between is a horsepower sponge, and no valuable use is being had for that power.
IMO, jmho, my 3 cents with inflation, etc.
Something else that one might try if you are having trouble feeding the rotor or if the rotor seems to be consuming too much power, is to sharpen and adjust the impeller wear blades. Ron Kile now offers this option. Its simple to visualize the need if you've ever removed the front halfmoon cover to the rotor and ran the machine with the rotor at wheat speed. Even though they removed 2 of the impellers, it's still a "wall of steel" that the feeder has to stuff material into. There is a gap between the rotor bearing mount plate and the impellers. This is so the kidney or bearing hub if you wish, can be mounted. When you try to stuff material into the spinning rotor, it has to "transition" to the circular motion, but still retain its rearward movement. The further around the rotor that the material has to go, the longer it takes to make that transition. All the while keeping in mind that more material is being sent in all the way across the feeder. The center bing stuffed right into the bearing hub. By sharpening the wear blades and adjusting them close to the kidney, the material can be cut and start its rearward movement a lot quicker which will free up more space for new material to enter.
In corn, it's probably of very litttle value. But if you want to diagnose your machine, take a look at the face and outside edge of the kidney and also the leading edge and back side of the leading edge of your wear blades. If they're even shiny or have any wear to them at all, material is following the wear blade around and is getting caught between the wear blade and kidney. That's the only way for those surfaces to get any wear. That material being caught between is a horsepower sponge, and no valuable use is being had for that power.
IMO, jmho, my 3 cents with inflation, etc.
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86 Posts
Yes going to do the veins also, as for the rasp bars going with the Dyco bars. Very good chrome done in the PNW. Going this way because I'm running a standard rotor. Also going to EC new coating on everything instead of the "rocket coating" Less cost and twice as hard as chrome and very impact resistant on the same width. But they cake it on 30mm thick instead of 3-6mm on chrome. Should never were out a combine.
Talked to the Kile guys up in Spokane last week and the said they have AFX guys pulling their rotors and putting in Kile impellers and specialty rotors. We have a 2388 with a standard rotor anda 2377 with the afx rotor. In 115bu irrigated wheat the 2388 has a 30ft header runs 3.5 mph the 2377 has a 25ft header and runs 3.1 mph. Something is wrong. They both have the header speed up kits on them. Both are set by me. The 88 has a gordon sieve and the 77 has an OEM. Same HP. Cant figure it out except the rotor?
Talked to the Kile guys up in Spokane last week and the said they have AFX guys pulling their rotors and putting in Kile impellers and specialty rotors. We have a 2388 with a standard rotor anda 2377 with the afx rotor. In 115bu irrigated wheat the 2388 has a 30ft header runs 3.5 mph the 2377 has a 25ft header and runs 3.1 mph. Something is wrong. They both have the header speed up kits on them. Both are set by me. The 88 has a gordon sieve and the 77 has an OEM. Same HP. Cant figure it out except the rotor?
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wamag, how do you like the gordon sieve for wheat? I have one for beans and two other sets that i can't use that I will trade in for a set of corn and wheat screens. What other sieve do you have and how do you like it. Thanks. Eddie
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159 Posts
I have the impeller blades on my 90 model 1680. Couldn't believe the difference they made in how the wheat and rye fed in. It was so much smoother. Definitely worth the money!
They also make something they call transition plates. There is a paddle welded to the rotor to help push the material into the first concave. I was told that once they get down to 1 3/4" tall they stop wearing cuz they stop working. I ordered a set of those too.
Beater shaft is getting new bearings since we are in this far.
Beater shaft is getting new bearings since we are in this far.
i just installed the transition pieces I got to cut a few acres if pease before I got rained out first rain since July 3 anyways I think for the coast I think the transition pieces are well woth it. and the impeller blades are allmost priceless I will never run another case without them
First run on the new kile rotor blades. So far it seems like it makes a huge improvement. The new knife allows me to speed right through tall wet beans. I would say we gained .75 mph over last year. Engine runs a lot easier, with less thumping and slugging.
Seems like the KRF, small flights and different beater make a big difference
I installed the krf kit in my 1680 a couple of years ago and it definitely helped feed beans through with less thumping (contrary to what some say, I think it's impossible to eliminate all thumping in all conditions). I also found going to a precision rock trap beater (or razor or anything similar to the 20 series combines) smoothed out feeding also. I also added a posi feed front drum, but I don't think my choking point was right up front. My next move will be a full fingered auger to complete the feeding improvements. I've made these changes over the past few years so I haven't had that 'night and day' experience - more of steady improvement. In corn the krf rotor pretty much made the old 1680 run like a newer combine (5 mph in 200bpa corn, 8 row head), however I still don't have the hp and corn sprayed with fungicides is really tough and I have more belt slippage problems than anything else now.
Thanks,
Pat
I installed the krf kit in my 1680 a couple of years ago and it definitely helped feed beans through with less thumping (contrary to what some say, I think it's impossible to eliminate all thumping in all conditions). I also found going to a precision rock trap beater (or razor or anything similar to the 20 series combines) smoothed out feeding also. I also added a posi feed front drum, but I don't think my choking point was right up front. My next move will be a full fingered auger to complete the feeding improvements. I've made these changes over the past few years so I haven't had that 'night and day' experience - more of steady improvement. In corn the krf rotor pretty much made the old 1680 run like a newer combine (5 mph in 200bpa corn, 8 row head), however I still don't have the hp and corn sprayed with fungicides is really tough and I have more belt slippage problems than anything else now.
Thanks,
Pat
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