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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm looking for some tips and advise on how to setup the old L2 for better thrashing and overall performance. I am to the point that new rub bars would be a good idea, and maybe even a concave. I have read over 20 pages on this forum, and on lots of others about rub bars, concaves and even an inclosed cylinder setups. I'd like to hear some comments on what you have tried and like or disliked and where you got your setup.

Also I'm curious to know what other mods you have done to your L2. I can get about 8 aces an hour out of ours, so its definately where it should be, but I would like to see what else I can do.

The L2 is an '81 Windrow Plus. Its a standard and has the small engine. Mods to date include a lowered stone trap, large straw chopper fins (will spread 24ft) and a modified clutch linkage setup that makes it easy to push. It had a Winno-bar setup on it, which was taken off 10+ years ago. I don't know much about it, I know it attaches at the front of the sieve. Can anyone shed some light those, and if its worth the time to put it back in? I harvest mainly small grains; wheat, barley, oats, canola, flax and occasionally sunflowers, peas and mustard.

Again any advise is greatly appreciated!
 

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If you are brave and will probably replace the concave in any case, you could try the L2 concave mod that I did to our L2.
Mod explanation is at the bottom of the following post.

Re: Electronic adjustment for clynder on l2
#13 on Jul 22, 2010, 12:01am »

[ On second thoughts I have just copied and pasted to this thread to save the time and trouble of chasing the original down down! Good luck! ]

Here in SE Australia we always had a lot of problems with walking grain over in cereals as for some reason our climate and our soils grew a straw that broke up, formed a mat on the walkers and over went the grain.
And believe me, we tried every thing we knew to try and fix that problem but nobody really got fully on top of it until the rotaries came along.

One thing I did to our L2's which increased capacity by about 15% and reduced walker loss substantially in cereals was to cut out the flat section of plate which is a part of the concave frame, just behind the actual concave proper.
this part of the concave is also under the beater at the rear of the thresher.
I installed a cell grate in this area [ from memory ? width across thresher by about a foot or so fore and aft ] using 3mm x 25 mm steel strips on edge at about 25 mm spacings.
I made filler bars to fit the cell grate so that if it did not work we could just install the filler bars [ by crawling in through that hole on the LH side. I was 30 odd kilograms lighter and some 35 years younger in those long gone days! ] and go on as per usual.

We ran the L2 for about an hour or so with just the cell grate and then installed the filler bars for a check.
They lasted about an hour before yours truly was back inside of that L2 pulling those filler bars out.
They were consigned to the "reuse sometime on something else shelf" and never used again in the L2.

The beater knocked more material, particularly grain down through the cell grate onto the raddle from where it went to the sieves instead of the walkers.
More material on the sieves but as we never had a sieve problem with the L2's this was no problem.
 

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My advice is to leave the Winnowbar out, we found it would plug the grain pan area in canola, and never saw any advantage in cereals. We threw ours on the scrap heap.... As to enclosed cylinders, we had Precision Farm Parts make us an enclosed cylinder with staggered bars on humps similar to a rotary setup and we are very happy with it, more capacity with less power. Keep in mind that good rub bars are the single most important part of these machines, concave is next..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, so the winno-bar can stay in the corner of the shop. It was taken off due to the overload in canola, just as you describe gleanerman.

I'll call PFP about their cylinder, looks like they have a location in Carnduff, which is only an hour away form me. Can I run the OEM concave, or would I have to buy a special one for it? What kinda dollar would that set me back?

ROM, you don't by chance have a picture of that do you? I would likely have to get a grate made, there are places around that could do it I suppose. Basically its no different than just extending the concave, except it doesn't quite meet the cylinder.

What if I was just going to replace the cylinder bars (keep oem cyl) and the concave. There seems to be lots of companies that make them. Any experiences?

Any thoughts on increasing the thresher or separator beeter speeds to be more aggressive on the straw?

Thanks for the advise so far. Please feel free to keep it coming.
 

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Sorry, no photos and again apologies for the length of this post.
I just hope I have explained the concave cell grate modification clearly below.
If not, please just ask for clarification.

The idea behind this modification to the L2 concave is to allow the beater behind the thresher to belt a lot more grain down through the cell grate onto the raddle and thereby take some of the grain separation load from the walkers.
It worked for us when we had grain walking and walker separation problems, a regularly occurring problem in our SE Australian part of the world.

As the old memory cells will have to be mined again after some 30 plus years since I first did those concave mods on the L2's, this arvo I wandered down to the local AGCO dealer who has a wrecked L 2 / 3 down the back in his junk yard, just to try and check that my memory of what the L2 concave looks like is about right
The memory was close so I will try to describe what I did in the way of building that concave cell grate which is actually quite simple to do.

[ During our time of L2 ownership, I actually constructed from scratch ; ie plate steel and flat, using just a welder and the gas torch and drill in the old farm workshop, a complete L2 concave including grinding the concave to a good circle.]

There is no need at all to go to a shop to get this mod done or a new concave fabricated.
If you can weld OK and can use an angle grinder and a tape measure you can do this mod.
If the open cell grate does not work as advertised it is just a case of bolting the filler bars back into each slot, like concave filler bars, to bring this modified area back to the original specifications.
And that can be done while the concave is in the machine if you can find someone small enough to shove through the hole on the LH side.

1 / The 3 mm thick sheet steel area behind the concave proper curves up from the rear of the actual concave for some 4" or 5" and then flattens out for another 8" or 9" towards the rear of the concave frame and under the beater at the rear of the thresher.
This sheet is a part of and included within the complete concave frame which extends to the rear of this sheet.
And it is this section of flat sheet at the rear of the concave frame that is removed and a cell grate is built into.
The curved front part of the sheet is left in place

The main concave frame is not altered at all.

I couldn't see the fore and aft width of the flat part of the sheet tonight in that old L2 today but from memory ie; front to rear, it maybe is about 8" or 9" but don't rely on my memory here.
Make the appropriate adjustments yourself if I am a bit out.

2 / The curved and front part of the sheet is attached to the concave and remains in place.
Only the flat rear section of the sheet up to where the sheet begins to curve / bend down to the concave proper is measured and cut out and is removed and replaced by the cell grate.

3 / To make the fitting of the cell grate bars easier, just ensure that the distance from the inside of the rear concave frame [ 2" x 3/8 ?? ] supporting the rear of the sheet to where the cut will be made on the front [ flat ] part of the sheet are at multiples of about 1 1/4" spacings.
Less than 1 1/4" won't matter much but probably not more as it may leave too much MOG through the cell grate slots when operating.

4 / An angle grinder is now used to cut right across the
sheet between the concave side frames where it has been measured to as above.

5 / Using the angle grinder cut the rear, flat section of the sheet completely out by carefully cutting the sheet around the insides of the side frames and the rear support frame.
You will now have one large hole in the back of your concave and will be wondering just what the heck you have done to your nice L2 / L3 concave.

6 / A piece of flat about 3" x 3/8" or similar in size to the rear frame support is now welded on-edge for vertical strength, under the front part of and flush with the edge of the sheet where the angle grinder cut was made and where the curve / bend of the sheet starts down towards the concave.
The on edge flat is also welded to the concave side frames to become part of the concave frame.
Ensure that this piece is parallel to the rear frame and make sure that the whole concave is level and square before welding this piece in.
This is to support what is left of the sheet, the curved part against the concave and will be the frame support for the front of the actual cell grate.

7 / Pieces of flat 1" or 1 1/4" x 3mm or 5 mm are now cut to the length between the concave side frames and welded in between the concave side frames at about a maximum 1. 1/4" or equal spacings.
On a 9" front to back opening, this will entail 7 bars to welded in on evenly spaced and around 1 1/4" spacings or an appropriate number of bars with other measurements if my memory on the front to rear width of the flat sheet area is incorrect here.
The top edge of all the bars should be level with the top of the concave frame or at the same level as the previous section of flat sheet that was cut out.
The slot widths between the bars, taking into account the 3 mm / 5mm thickness of the bars should now be about 1".

8 / As these bars are unsupported in the their mid sections it is necessary to weld in fore and aft support pieces under the bars.
These are welded in between the new front frame support piece under the curved section of sheet and to the original rear frame at about 6" spacings to provide strength and support under the bars that make up the cell grate.

9 / 1 1/2" x 1/4" flat on edge on approximately 6" spacings will do the under bar support job.
Each of these cell bar support pieces should be slotted [ use an angle grinder ] on their edges at the same spacings as the bars so that when they are slotted up under the bars, the bars are spaced and held in place at a constant slot width right across the width of the concave frame.
The slots should be cut only so that when fitted they go to within about a 1/2" of the top of the cell grate bars leaving the upper half inch of each bar and slot unimpeded right across the concave width.

Accurate 1 1/4" slots and 1/2" depth of the support pieces allows the use of standard sized 1" x 1/2" bar for filler bars.

None of these measurements are at all critical but for ease of fitting filler bars, the bars and slots should be equal in width and parallel right across the concave frame / cell grate.

When happy, weld everything into place.

10 / Filler bars, one for each slot.
These should be of sufficient thickness that when they are laid in the cell grate slots and resting on the fore / aft support pieces under the cell grate bars and slots, they are about flush with the top of the bars and provide a flat area similar to the original sheet.
Accommodating say 1/2" thick filler bars is why it is suggested that the under bar support pieces come to within a 1/2" of the top of the bars.
So arranging for the support pieces to come up to a consistent 1/2" from the top of the cell grate bars will mean a relatively flat surface when 1/2' thick filler bars are installed if needed.

Again don't get too fussy as the grain and etc won't worry too much about a couple of mms here or there sticking up or down.

Off course you may find like we did that we never needed filler bars after the first hour or so of trialling the machine with the filler bars first in and then out.
There was such a dramatic improvement in capacity due to reduced walker loss with the cell grate open that we never needed those filler bars again.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So basically reinforce the rear of the concave, then weld in bars side to side an inch apart. After that weld in reinforncements from front to back around 6 inches apart. That doesn't seem too hard. I don't think I will have time before harvest to tackle that one, but it would make a good winter project.

Thank You ROM for taking the time to write up that whole post, I imagine it took a while. I really apreciate you doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What kind of performance are you getting out the of that PFP cylinder? I talked to Mike at PFP pn friday, and he figured I would get double the capasity out of it with the speed up kit and encl cylinder. I told him he was smoking something. I get 7-8 ac/hr in most crops, there was no way in heck a 4 foot wide cylinder would double and get 14-15. That's what a 9600 deere will do. It ain't going to happen. He seemed knowlegable enough, but it really turns me off when people try to blow smoke up my rear.

I was wondering if you could tell me what your experience is with the enclosed cylinder. What kind of capasity are you seeing?
 
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