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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Hydro belt keeps breaking, it usually does it when i turn the steering wheel as sharp as it will go, so i try not to do that but still it will break usually one belt every day or two maybe just when i try to extend the auger out. Does anyone know what might b causing this?? Thanks
 

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well, i might be full of ****; however im going to guess that there is something wrong with the supply of your hydraulic oil. see the main pump has 2 parts, one is steering, and all the other functions such as your auger swing, header lift etc... the other half is the charge pump for the hydrostaic drive unit. now, you say when ever you turn hard it breaks the belt. or when you swing the auger, somewhere there is a leak in the hydraulic system, and the flow is being robbed from the hydro to the steering valve, which on most machines steering and breaks get priority. Have you trired rasing the header (because it takes more pressure-flow) fast while going full speed ahead in like second? does the combine wine just at idle? does the hydro whine bad when moving? does the wine get worse or better when you speed rpms up? does the hydro oil smell burnt? whens the last time you changed the filter and the suction strainer? what i think is happening is theres no charge pressure, and in a hydraulic system you loose charge pressure nuts comes to a hault real quick, and the sudden stop is whats breaking the belt
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I think your probably right it does wine pretty bad... there is a spot below the wheel on the ladder side that has been leaking quite a bit... I haven't run it in almost 2 yrs but i'm fixing to cut a couple hundred acres with it in a couple of weeks... I did replace the filter and that didn't help... If the hydro wines alot what causes that and what could i do about it??? Thanks for the info.
 

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suggest the 71321106 relief poppet is stuck in master valve or orfice is plugged- assuming you have sn 19501 and up. Have seen spring break and jam seat or poppet. Remove and clean poppet and check relief pressure (2000 psi - 2200psi max). Will only take a few mins - make sure header is down and all pressure off system as a safety issue. Pressure is adjusted via 71176962 shims . Locate master valve - the front valve with only one solenoid on it at the end of the valve stack - unscrew nut and LARGE flat screwdriver slotted plug - all the guts are under this - just put em back the way they came out after inspection and cleaning.
 

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It sounds like you have a single belt drive on your hydralic pump (that would make it a '78 or prior machine which has charge pump for hydro within the hydro). This leeds us back up to single section hydralic pump which first X amount of oil is directed to steering. Steering relief is in end cap of pump. Excess oil after steering is satisfied goes to run other hydralic functions. Beings either steering or other hydralic functions can break the belt I leen away from any relief valve sticking. I'd be looking very close at the alignment of idler pulley. It pivots on the greasable stud. Sometimes you can just turn the greasable stud 1/2 turn to bring back into alignment. Best you look into replacing stud and idler arm if not straight. New belts are worse than running old belt if things are out of alignment. Dual belt systems on the '79 and newer hydro equiped machines were quite a challenge when machines were getting older (we actually had to shim pump a bit to straighten it out with engine drive pulley). Good luck
 
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