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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Experiencing power loss with L2 under load. The fuel restriction warning light stays on despite changing all the filters. Fuel flow from the fuel tank seems okay. I added an inline fuel pump to assist charging the Roosa pump. This helped somewhat but not completely. I am hestitant to buy a new fuel pump not knowing if that would correct the problem. Has anyone had the same problem and if so what solved it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all of the replies. As I stated in the original post the fuel flow from the tank seems adequate. Not sure about fuel tank vent, would that be in the fuel tank cap? I placed an inline fuel pump just ahead of the fuel filter on the engine so there is plenty of flow to that point. The engine starts a little hard and seems like it is starved for fuel until it picks up after a few seconds and then sounds good. The engine will not get past 2200 rpm and under load drops on down to 1850-1900, all the while the fuel restriction light stays on with fresh filters all around and clean tank screen. Just wondering if the Roosa fuel pump is not delivering enough fuel to the injectors ? Can the pump be adjusted? I also tried adjusting the throttle cable to gain more RPM but same result under load
 

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is it the 3500 engine or the 301? check air filters too. could be a plugged injector? maybe? are you checking rpm with tach in cab or with another type. sometimes the ones in the cab are not accurate.
 

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If the fuel restriction light stays on all the time it may be a faulty sensor or moniter and nothing to do with your power loss, we have one machine like that but it runs fine. Have you considered that it may be a turbo problem? Is your combine equipped with a turbo boost gauge in the cab?
 

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Had similar problems with our L2 back in the 1970's and later with our N7.
Filters changed, lines, pumps and etc all checked out OK.
The following is from memories from over 30 years ago so I hope I can remember correctly and get this right.

First off in the L2 was the internal tank filter on the fuel outlet pipe.
Even though the fuel flow seemed OK we found that this filter was partially blocked by very fine dust particles which as it turned out, over a period of time had got into the tank via the vent hole in the cap.

The filter can be unscrewed or removed by somebody with a reasonably small hand reaching in down through the L2 tank fill hole and removing the internal phosphor bronze or fine mesh filter from the outlet line.

Check the parts book for any illustrated internal tank filter.
Those parts books are a mine of information on how the Gleaners go together.

The second and as it turned out the real problem was that the small air vent hole in the fuel tank cap was getting blocked by fine dust leading to low pressure in the tank and the starving of the engine for fuel.
With the cap off the engine ran fine as there was no low tank pressure and no fuel starvation.
The fuel tank air vent hole in the cap was drilled out to 1/4" but all that did was to allow more dust into the tank and block that internal line filter.
The solution was to place a small tin upside down over the cap to keep the vent hole free from dust settling directly on it.
Or as below with the N7, a rag folded a number of times and an old O ring to keep it on and covering the fuel tank cap kept the dust from blocking the cap vent hole. The rag at least didn't blow off in strong winds!
End of problem!

Same problem with the N7 fuel tank lid vent which blocked with dust and starved the engine for fuel.
There we just folded a heavy rag a few times to give a good thickness filter and used an old O ring to keep the rag over the fuel cap.
That was the solution to that problem as well.

The R series have a separate fuel line air vent up inside of the grain tank and after some years of work, ours definitely needed cleaning this year as it too was starting to get a good coating of very fine dust over it.
 

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I've had the same problem a few times on our L2. Theres a fuel shut off t vaulve right before the water sepeator filter. Pull the fuel line off the t and if you don't have a good stream of fuel take and blow back the line with an air gun and then pull that t off and blow it out too. We run into problems with that T plugging from time to time.
 

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things we have found - supply line to filter comes apart internally - replace with steel braided 3/8 min from tank to filter. check check valves in hand primer pump, check fuel flow from filters - if this unit has the plug on type filters blow out the holes and all fittings - check fuel transfer pump pressure - could be transfer pump in inlet of pump - check fuel return fitting out of top of pump and make sure rest of return line not pluged - check intake manifold - there are big plugs that can loosen and fall out thus dumping turbo boost - and of course check for air leaks in supply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks again for all the replies. this certainly gives me some things to check out. This L2 has the small engine, and it does have a boost pressure gauge in the cab. I have a feeling that the boost pressure may be low, what should it read normally?
I will check the manifold and to check if any plugs have shaken loose. As for the tank filter, it seemed to be a plastic like mesh cylinder I do not recall seeing a fine metal screen as part of the assembly, could my tank filter be incomplete? As for changing the supply line is it suggested to change the metal tubing leading from the tank to the water separator? As for the RPM I am only going by the tach in the cab I know that could be inaccurate but it is quite obvious the engine is pulling down and losing speed.
I am curious to check out the defective turbo angle because it seems that fuel flow to the filters is good which would eliminate plugged lines and vents. Thanks again for all the advice.
 

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Our machines have the in tank filter made of white plastic with a super fine mesh plastic screen as you describe. Just reach in and pop it out to clean it with compressed air. (best done when tank is almost empty and use a rubber glove) Boost pressure on our 670T engine normally runs about 6-8 lbs. Have rethought the turbo angle, because you mention it starts poorly I'm thinking more of a fuel /compression/ injection problem.. Did the problem appear suddenly or over a longer period of time? How many hours on the engine? Have the injectors been removed/reinstalled lately? We had a 670 where the injectors were installed upside down resulting in the kind of performance you describe.
 

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my vote is to pull fitting out of the bottom of the tank... smallest hole and usually the culprit. we have installed larger bung for a larger fitting if problem continues.the combination of light and power seems headed for restriction of fuel line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have had the machine for four years. the problem with the power loss and fuel restriction light appeared suddenly. Unsure off the ex.act hours on machine ashour meter not working would guess 3500+ . Have not done any work to the engine except new water pump . Have not put much more than 80 hrs on the machine since I have had it
 
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