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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the procedure for leveling concaves? I put the front one in and adjusted setting until it "ticked" and backed it off a tiny bit so it didn't. Then I put #3 in and the concave more than "ticked". I figure I need to do some adjusting here but am not sure of the correct way to do it.
 

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step one is to make sure your concave support tube is straight. Otherwise you get bad threshing and puzzling wear on your concaves. Thats the bar that the hooks on the concaves rest on on the right side of the machine.
 

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They might be ticking but where the ticking is coming from is whats important.. On which bar on the concave is it touching??? If you dont have the rotor in the proper position it will produce poor results as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
But how do you actually tell where it's touching. Seems to me the only way is to kinda half crawl in there so you can eye down the concave.
 

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Its best if/when you have the feedhouse off and then can look down the front. Or if you can get your finger in there to feel which bar is the pinch point. But then it becomes a literal pinch point on flesh and bone. How I have done it on my TR is to take a caliper with rod that comes out the back for measuring depth. Then I rest the body of the caliper on the bar of the concave and put the rod up through the wires to touch the rotor or a rub bar. That was I can measure easily where the pinch point is as well as how far away the rotor and concave are. That would give you a good start at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Back to the original question. How level concaves from front to back. I know there is an adjusting bolt on the front end of the concave hanger but how do you determine what is 'level'.
 

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I usually just put the front and rear concaves in to level, zero them. That way I could see what bar front and rear concaves are hitting on and how much. It sounds like you would have to shorten the adjusting rod at the front of the left side and then reset the stop bolts. To adjust the pinch point or what bar the concave touches the rotor on you would use the draw bolts on front and back of right hand pipe. If you do try it like I describe with the middle concave out, just make sure that rear concave doesn't slide down on right hand pipe before you clamp it down or you won't get accurate results. I would think that there are a lot of combines around that don't have the concaves leveled and or pinch point not set properly, and it definitely makes a difference on how the combine performs. Yeah it may be a bit of a pain because you still have to sort of lean over the auger bed to look in but there are worse jobs.
 

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Do you have an operators manual? If so I suggest reading that as it is easier than trying to explain it on here. It's not that hard a job.
 

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Yeah, I would second that. The operators manual does have a very good description of the procedure. Actually, there are a lot worse jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Manual for 2144 doesn't describe it. Manual for 2588 is in combine which is in dealer's shop. Manual for 6088 is in my son's truck which is sitting in Minnesota. I guess I'll wait til he gets home later in the week.

Thanks guys.
 

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you will have to have both front and rear concaves in with the hold down bar on the rear tabs . then start to crank up the concaves till you hear the rear concave tick . turn the rotor over by hand . if the front concave ticks first you will have to back off the front turnbuckle a ways . once you have the back ticking back off the concave adjuster 1/2 turn then tighten up the front turnbuckle and get the front to tick , if the back ticks before you get the front to tick back the concave adjuster off a little more . when the front ticks loosen off the turnbuckle 1/2 turn and adjust the stop bolts to touch the concave bolting bar and your done . If you go and put in the middle concave and it ticks you have a bent set of concaves and should get them straightened .
good luck marshall
 

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I,m pretty sure that the pinch point is supposed to be the number eight bar from left side not counting the concave extension. If they are newer concaves that have built in extension, then you would have to take that into account. Every axial flow operator's manual I ever looked in had the information. Keep in mind this is for factory concaves, some aftermarket companies might have different specs. Harvest Services round bars do.
 
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