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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On my 92 R52, I have a low voltage problem, or should I say still have. I have cleaned grounds, replace the main cab relay, had the alternator checked, put a bigger main breaker on. One of the things that happens is the longer your run, the lower the volts go. One of the things I wonder about is the resistor in the console for the alternator. What does it do? why do you need it? On other GM alternator equipped things, you don't have a resistor, what special thing is this one doing. Or is it to do with the hotter engine compartment? Is it possible for the regulator to slow down. Looking for suggestions. This combine sure has its share of electrical issues.
 

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When you figure it out, let me know been battling it since the combine was new at my place. some times I make a gain changing components but for the most part end up back where we started after a short time...
 

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Have you checked the voltage with a different voltmeter ? I had an instance where the reading on the cab voltmeter gradually dropped when in fact the actual voltage was OK. I know it's a long shot and you've likely covered this angle already...
 

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You might look at your owners manual in the wiring diagrams & see if there is more than one relay. We had a R70 that did exactly the same thing & we found out there were two power relays. When relay would get hot it would have a voltage drop across the contacts.
 

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Tested your batteries? My r7 was giving me grief last summer, checked all the grounds, lights, wiring, cab resistor etc. turned out one of my batteries was only reading about 11 volts when supposed to be fully charged. Replaced all 3 and good ever since
 

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That having one cell or battery low voltage especially with multiple batterys, also single 'large' battery(s) has been and age old problem with altertnator equipped equipment. One low voltage or one low reading cell can cause that problem. Relays, poor grounds or hot wire connections can just really make it a fun time to get to work correctly. Sometimes the wire end rings can be dark even if tight and look good. Sometimes the wire itself has darkened inside it's cover and that can be real bear cat to identify. Especially so on long 'run' wireing. Test the wire at both ends and it frequently tests good then when hooked back up it somewhat fails enough to pass some electricity but not enough to do it's intended job. Swelling, excessive stiffness or internal corrosion under the wire cover are all super hard to identify when they look so good as installed. Some of those older steel wires are straight strand not twisted and I think they are the hardest to identify. A big time GRR before a guy finds the culprit wire(s) Some equipment used wire that barely sufficed in gauge when it was new now add age, heat, and moisture for more problems. Recently went thru that on the grounds on my new N6. Ground wires were clean and shinny rings to ground. However the wires with no visual corrosion felt 'stiff' in the first inch by the rings. I cut off the 'stiff' part of the ground wires and replaced with new rings to ground. No problem since. Aggravating to say the least a guy just feels desperate by the time it's located and finally fixed/repaired to work as advertised. Wireing can be just about as mutch fun as a guy can imagine sometimes.
Good luck, Dwight E. Lambert, Albany, Oregon
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I replaced the batteries also. So no one believes it has anything to do with the charging system huh. I had the alternator re-done, but was wondering if anyone ever had a issue with it putting out lower voltage as it got hotter? Just a thought.
 

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For an interesting test or few tests assuming you have a digital hand held voltage tester ( do get one if you don't already have ) and a note pad to record all the readings, start by testing the voltage at the batteries after the combine has sat for a few days as that should get rid of any surface charge. Then start the engine and check the battery voltage after a few minutes and go to the cab and observe the voltage reading and also test the incoming voltage to the cab. Also test after this relay if you can and note any difference in voltage, both with no extra loads on it and then with fan or whatever else that typically goes through it. So retain that info and then after the combine is put into use for some hours and you see this lower voltage reading in the cab, do all the tests over again so you can get a handle on if any low voltage issue is really originating from the batteries/alternator or you are having a low reading in the cab due to overheating connections or relays. That may at least help narrow it down to an area of the combine.
 

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Factory regulator are supposed to drop back currant when alternator gets to hot on these Delcos. Find where you are losing the voltage per the other suggestions. Might be you could add a wire to prevent the voltage drop. If it is just the overhead with low voltage you could help this with a helper wire. Especially if the main symptom is light comes on when using auto auger swing.
 

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I had the same problem on my case combine ..the longer the day went on and especially the longer the night went on the worse it got ..went through a few alternators....on a case combine the back of the alternator has a cover with a 1 1/2 " screened opening . I would always clean the screen at least once a day one day I just cleaned the whole combine cut maybe 1 acre tops had to go back on top for some reason? And that stupid screen was already plugged with chaff. I went to hardware store got two 11/2" street PVC elbows so the inlet was now pointing right at the engine fan like a air scoop . I now never have to clean screen and have never had a alternator problem since....
 
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