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Just had a new FD75 show up to the yard after many years with an FD70, and though the header looks good, albeit very similar to the outgoing model, I'm really disappointing with the cheap, flimsy, poor opening plastic end shields. I felt Macdon nailed it when they went to the shield that swung open on an arm and locked in place, and was quite solid and robust plastic. These new ones are super thin, flimsy, a pain to get on and off, reduce access to belt/gearbox. F'ing junk shields boys. This new one looks like a case of "How can we cut the mfg cost of the header without sacrificing header performance, but at the expense of customer ease of use all while selling the unit for more money?" Mission accomplished.
Actually you are bang on, macdon reps at farm shows have told me the higher told them to cut costs. I guess they accomplished this, but the shields are a pieces of you know what. If I'm spending close to $100,000 on a header I don't care if it's $500 more for a good shield.
 

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Wow, I haven't come on here for awhile but we have had all these same problems with our fd's and it's really annoying going 3.5 mph using about 20% capacity. We parked one of our fd's and the dealer brought out a max flex for us to try and all I can say is wow! That is the head to have for peas until MD figures out these feeding issues. From what I can see they need to bring that auger out another 6 inches or so to grab the material or just do what claas did on their maxflows with just having an auger and no center draper. Until they figure out all these feeding issues it will be tough to update to new MD's.
 

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Do you have the Seed saver kit under the side canvases at the front, and a long flap that rides on the front top of the center canvas? I had the same problem in peas and mustard. They tried pressures and a center draper orbit motor. Also added extra fingers in the center auger. What finally fixed the problem was taking the small seed savers at the front of the side canvases and the long one at the front of the center canvas out. Ran good for two years like this. Then this year I put it in to try save lentils from getting tossed under the side drapers. As soon as I went through a heavy spot, the center draper jammed again
 

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were is this flow needle located at ? is it on left side of adapter on the inside?

I am having center canvas stalling issues on a FD75. Is the needle valve to turn located on the RHS of the Parker Block. Is it set with an allen head screw and locknut? That is the only adjustment I can see on that block. Looking at the other thread at the same time with regards to this same problem. A couple of questions. What is this needle valve adjusting the pressure between? The knife drive and center drive canvas or exactly what? The only other thing I haven't checked yet is the splines on the motor that maybe gone? I don't think my roller is turning inside the canvas - otherwise it would heat up and you could feel the heat - I feel nothing. Has the splines been a big issue on the hydraulic motor and do I have to change both the roller and the motor or just the motor?

I can always reverse it but won't go forward. I have never had issues before and now I am trying to figure it out yesterday and today. I saw an earlier post on this thread by Bussard saying they were coming out to change the pump on his unit? I think my header is a 2017 with a CA25 adapter.

Can it really be a weak pump or should I blame the orbit motor driving it? I cleaned everything off with a blow gun and I was able to go about 1/2 a mile before things started to block on the center canvas. I assume the oil was heating up and so conditions changed and oil is slipping by? The main pump is a Rexroth Bosch - looks like an expensive beast!

When it stalled, I turned off the side draper/pea auger control knob to off to test pump strength. (The theory was the flow could be used to go to center canvas if not being used by that circuit.) It made no difference and the center canvas remained stalled. The knife is always driving strong and never jams.

About the only thing the Manual says for troubleshooting and adjusting pressure is to "see your authorized dealer"! I turned the Allen head screw in a turn to see what happens and it didn't make a difference in my situation. So am I adjusting the right needle or do I need to back it out instead? I decided to give up for the day and look for answers here!
 

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Where was the relief valve you adjusted? On Rexroth block center Draper relief valve is on the bottom and side Draper is on RH side. I’ve had to turn my center up.
 

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The relief valve I adjusted was on the RHS of the Parker Valve Block (facing feederhouse LHS of machine). I don't see any other externally adjustments other than that one on the block. I assume they should be visible. I turned in the only adjustment on the Parker block. I am not sure if this adjustment is a "flow divider" between center draper and knife drives?

I am going to take off the draper motor. It sure sounds like the splines maybe stripped! It works and then doesn't work. Always can reverse though.
 

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Three possibilities come to mind for center draper stalling and working in reverse.

1. Mud/dirt/rocks under the canvas which bind. Drop down the door underneath and clean out. I assume that has been done,
2. Bearing is gone on either the drive roller or idler roller on center canvas. When cool they run for a while and when they get hot they drag and require so much pressure the relief valve trips.
3. Bad hyd motor on center draper.

I have had all 3 happen at different times that caused what you are experiencing with the center draper.
 

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Another possibility is pea auger hyd motor bearing. We have seen were the bearings go out on pea auger motor and the balls get into the system and wipe out all 3 draper drive hyd motors
 

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Have you changed the oil filter? Last year in chick peas we had this problem, removing the seed saver kit solved our issues. This year in lentils we were having the same problem and removing the seed saver kit only made it worse. Changed the filters and haven’t had a problem since but I’m still thinking a bigger issue is yet to be found.
 

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If the center draper is stalling out make sure it is not full of dirt. Once the inside fills with crap it will not turn well. I finally made side shieds towards the back of the center canvas on each side to prevent the dirt from being able to get in. For us if the center draper stops completely it is usually a rock jammed at the back between the slat and the sheet metal. It is also important to drop the poly pan underneath the center canvas when you plug with dirt to get rid of all the crap under the canvas.
 

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Where was the relief valve you adjusted? On Rexroth block center Draper relief valve is on the bottom and side Draper is on RH side. I’ve had to turn my center up.
I finally found the relief valve exactly where you said it was. THANK YOU Littletimeoperator!!!! It is located under the valve block of a Parker block as well!!! When I first inspected, the other day I failed to see it behind the hoses leading to the orbit motor!! I had a closer look today. The valve was all covered in dust and oil so it was cleverly disguised. Every Macdon header I have had (5 so far), has a loose oil filter which drools oil all over everything behind the cover. I am not sure if vibration causes this but it seems they aren't tightened properly (IMO) from the factory.

I gave the relief valve 3/4 of a turn "in" and I am very happy now! I was playing with the WRONG relief valve on the side of block. I turned it all the way in and the only thing it seemed to do was keep me from reversing the RHS canvas during a feeder reversal. So really know nothing about that valve setting and what it is meant for. I really wished these manufacturers would be forced to make all the information about their products freely available rather than always stating "see your authorized dealer!"

It sure would be nice to know the adjustments that can be made and stated in the operator's manual. I fail to understand why farmers are only allowed to tighten chains and are supposed to be kept "hydraulic illiterate" as if there is some great danger in making an adjustment to be able to help yourself?

I checked my splines on the center canvas roller and motor. The splines are getting pretty beat up but still work. I talked to my machine shop and they can put new splines into the roller. So may have to do that when that time comes. Price of orbit motor is $850ish while they soak you $1100ish for the coated drive roller - hi-way robbery!! They must be a gold plated pipe that was handcrafted and forged!

The other day I lost a double ball bearing out of my Hypro Pump on the sprayer. Buying it from the NH dealer would have cost $380 and the nearest source was Quebec or the US. The one that blew up after 1000 hours of operation (or less) was a Peer made in China. Fortunately I found a jobber bearing for $160ish. I pulled the plates off the bearing before installing. They dab about 1/2 a teaspoon of "vaseline" type grease on the balls (as per usual). Every bearing I install gets greased and it will last 5 times as long (IMO). If it is a metal plated one, I drill a hole and inject. If it is soft sided, I pick it out, grease it and put the seal back in!


Thanks everyone for the help - really appreciated and I don't mind helping anyone else either if I can~!
 

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What oil are you guys running in the macdons? My uncle had some issues with drapers but went to 30 weight oil. Regular hydraulic oil was put back in after leaks were fixed and eventually caused stalling. If the relief valve is the problem I don't see where different oil would make a difference but that's what I was told.
 

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What oil are you guys running in the macdons? My uncle had some issues with drapers but went to 30 weight oil. Regular hydraulic oil was put back in after leaks were fixed and eventually caused stalling. If the relief valve is the problem I don't see where different oil would make a difference but that's what I was told.
15W-40 engine oil, as per Macdon recommendation in the manual. Seems weird for a hydro system but It works.
 
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