The Combine Forum banner
21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,047 Posts
I use an old sickle rivet-eeze ii tool that we've modified by adding a large nut (the built-in hole is too small for the bolt head to pass through) to provide clearance between the foot and the bolt heads to drive the bolts out without having to hammer on anything. Then when installing the new bolts, I use the rivet-ease as an anvil, putting the hole over the bolt, to hammer against when driving the new bolts in. That way I don't end up bending the knife back, which is actually really easy to do. It's fast and fairly easy, although not nearly as easy as the FD2 knife.

Are the FD2 knife bolts the same size as the older ones? In other words could I just get a new knife back with the oval holes and bolt my standard sections onto them? If I was wanting to replace all the guards I'd probably just replace the whole works with the new FD2 knife and guards.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,394 Posts
Are the FD2 knife bolts the same size as the older ones? In other words could I just get a new knife back with the oval holes and bolt my standard sections onto them? If I was wanting to replace all the guards I'd probably just replace the whole works with the new FD2 knife and guards.
MacDon claims no knife compatibility but a wholesale knife section support change would require careful study before leaping.
The nuts went from a 7/16 11 mm fit to a 10 mm nut. With the exception a few hydraulics the header is entirely metric.

The knife system is just a small part of FD2 overall improvements though, tough to rate which feature has more value than any other one.
Having said that and having thought it over though:
-flex all the time hydraulic height control contour max wheels
-plugfree
-triple reel
-better float/lateral and AHHC setup
-deep drapers
-transport system

My ranking order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
807 Posts
Some of you guys must farm where there are no rocks...

Punch in a vice grip and a 2lb hammer...give it a whack the sickle bolts fly out.

If the bolt doesn't go after a couple of whacks it's usually mushroomed so take your cordless grinder and gently grind the bolt flush with the strap, repeat as above.

I would imagine if the pitman arm is the same you could just get a whole new complete strap from the fd2 and slap it in. Might have to replace the knifeheads as well. Guy would have to check the parts manual and see what crosses back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,047 Posts
I would imagine if the pitman arm is the same you could just get a whole new complete strap from the fd2 and slap it in. Might have to replace the knifeheads as well. Guy would have to check the parts manual and see what crosses back.
No necessarily. If they changed the distances between the bolt holes to metric and made them some even number of millimetres then the holes for the guards won't line up.

As for part numbers, the FD2 numbers are all new and I don't see any crossover or subbing up from the FD1 numbers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
807 Posts
No necessarily. If they changed the distances between the bolt holes to metric and made them some even number of millimetres then the holes for the guards won't line up.

As for part numbers, the FD2 numbers are all new and I don't see any crossover or subbing up from the FD1 numbers.
I'm talking about keeping the old style guards and changing the knife strap. You couldn't use your old style knives on the new strap however.

But then you would have the quick change knives and that may be worth something, especially if your strap is getting worn already anyways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,047 Posts
Yeah that was my thought too. But like Don said, with everything changing to metric, the old knives may not fit on the new knife strap. If everything did line up, it would be worth changing everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
At what point are you guys replacing guards on these heads due to wear and what are you actually measuring? The gap where the section rides and the rear lip?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
At what point are you guys replacing guards on these heads due to wear and what are you actually measuring? The gap where the section rides and the rear lip?
The guards make a big difference and was going to post on this because a lot the discussion has been everywhere else but not much on them until you mentioned them…..Within less than 3 seasons on a new FD 75 35 ft h head I started to get quite a lot of knife stalling/ jamming in tough cutting barley mainly. At the time I felt even though the conditions were tough, that the header should have been doing better. Naturally I checked the speed of the drive and hydraulic pressure the knife drive was running at. Also we run two knives …… the older duller one for peas which saves the sharp knife for the cereals where we were seeing the stalling….. I installed a pressure gauge on the back of the header to read hydraulic pressure on the go. This showed as conditions got tougher the pressure climbed from a low of between 200-400 psi (so it looked like the needle was hardly reading from the seat) to more than double that as well as the needle wildly pulsing….. unless ground speed was reduced, knife jamming happened.
Still thought it should have been better….. along the way was also making sure the hold downs were tuned, and were periodically using a grinder to ‘sharpen’ up the edges of each guard point…. This helped a little but it was apparent the sides of the guards would round off again and were also worn right in the back corners, as well as the double shear point where the section travels between. So I changed the guards…… this made a massive improvement…. All of a sudden hydraulic pressure runs right down low and hardly moves regardless of conditions….. it’s revolutionary…. When you consider the amount of pissing around a dull knife setup causes, - between slow cutting, knife jams, and broken knifes, — by keeping the guards fresher is a no brainer.
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top